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experience vs. ability
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silk5138


Apr 5, 2003, 3:18 PM
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experience vs. ability
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How long have you been bouldering? And what level problems are you climbing now?


aimeerose


Apr 5, 2003, 3:48 PM
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experience vs. ability [In reply to]
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I've been bouldering for 4 years and I've done 2 V7s; Daily Dick Dose in Hueco and Monkey Bars Traverse at Kraft.

I can usually get v4s on the first go, unless it's Dean's Trip or the Pearl, which I've never been able to do.


granite_grrl


Apr 6, 2003, 7:26 PM
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I'm ignorant on my climbing level. The gyms I go to use a different grading scheme (their own), and I've never really bothered finding out when I'm out side.

Most of the time I don't care, but it would be nice to get a feeling for different grades.

My experiance, about 2.5 years on and off.


ecocliffchick


Apr 7, 2003, 7:05 AM
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experience vs. ability [In reply to]
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In terms of bouldering, I'm not really sure. Gym ratings are rarely consistent - I've fallen off V0's and flashed V6's depending on the gym I'm at. I've only really bouldered outside a couple of times and without a guidebook they were all just 'problems'. Some were hard - some were easy. . . oh, and I've been bouldering (primarily indoors for training) for 3 or 4 years.


aimeerose


Apr 7, 2003, 11:13 AM
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Boy those must have been some easy V6s. If you climb V6, you know you climb that hard. If you have no idea, you're probably in the V0-V2 range.


ecocliffchick


Apr 7, 2003, 5:56 PM
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experience vs. ability [In reply to]
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Like I said, they were in a gym, and the likelihood that they were actually V5's and V6's is slim to zero. It was during one of the ABS bouldering comps and the points garnered for each climb were supposed to be indicative of the difficulty of the problem. Some of the point values must have been way off because when I looked up the range they were supposed to represent it was way beyond what seemed reasonable.

On a side note, there was one problem one ABS comp that had a low point value, that I thought would be in about the range for my warm ups, so I hopped on it right away. It was vertical and crimpy and suited my style of climbing, and it had a low point value, so I knew I would send it, and I did. Little did I know the sign was wrong and it was worth more points than most of my other problems combined. It just shows you what a powerful tool your mind is. If it had been marked correctly, I doubt I would have even attempted it, but because I thought it was easy, I sent it.


aimeerose


Apr 22, 2003, 8:29 PM
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dead thread [In reply to]
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I'm sad this thread died. I thought there would be more serious female boulderers out there. Anyone going to the PBC this weekend?


ecocliffchick


Apr 23, 2003, 7:51 AM
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I would love to head out there. Even though bouldering really isn't my favourite climbing style, I think just the experience of an outdoor competition / gathering would be totally cool. I've been to Oak Flats before and the area is beautiful. Unfortunately I'm in Canada right now and in the middle of working on my Master's degree, so I can't just hop on a plane and fly out there for the weekend!


lilycactus


Apr 23, 2003, 8:53 AM
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Re: experience vs. ability [In reply to]
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I've been climbing aroung three years and I boulder 'round the V5, V6 range (trying real hard). I mostly climb trad (5.11), sport (5.12) but some friends from Jersey have been here motivating us to get out to the Draw to boulder, I love it! Bouldering is so damn dependent on so many factors, it is such a give and take!!!!!!! The PBC sounds fun, we have a booth.


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