|
climbingpride
Apr 6, 2003, 4:46 PM
Post #1 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2001
Posts: 571
|
That guy on Masters of stone is so good at climbing to just kinda drift outa the lime light. How old is he now?
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Apr 6, 2003, 5:38 PM
Post #2 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
Kickin it in Moab with his new wife and taking a break from traveling due to the international strife.
They just put up their first route as a married couple and of course it is one of the hardest routes in the area.
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Apr 6, 2003, 5:40 PM
Post #3 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
Who cares? He's climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 6, 2003, 5:43 PM
Post #4 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
He's been crusing all sort so stuff. He just freed with Steph Davis Epitaph which started as Playing Hooky (5.12 C2). For about three months he and Tim O'Neil held the speed record on the nose. He put up California Roulette (VI 5.10 WI 5) Solo onsight, free soloed the Super Couloir (VI 5.9 WI 3+), both on Fitzroy, as well as free soloing the Compressor Route (5.10 A1) on Cerro Torre. And last but not least, he's marrying the aforementioned Steph Davis.
He's hardly drifting out of the limelight.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingpride
Apr 6, 2003, 6:36 PM
Post #5 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2001
Posts: 571
|
WOW. How do you know all this? Climbing mags? I think i'll get a subscription to Climbing Magazine when i get my next check.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 6, 2003, 7:22 PM
Post #6 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Actually, it was the Black Diamond catalogs. Besides, you can get all this stuff off of their website (climbing mag. I mean).
|
|
|
|
|
mojorisin
Apr 6, 2003, 11:52 PM
Post #7 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 994
|
He got the golden piton award for the Fitzroy, Cerra Torre stunt. That was sick,,,just sick. He is far from a career change it sounds. Cant wait to see what he does next.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Apr 7, 2003, 4:17 AM
Post #8 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
I've been wondering why he would change the name of an established route....Not to take away from his All free ascent of Playing Hooky. But why would you change the name of a route just because you freed it? Lynn Hill Didn't change the name of the nose....I guess it will always be Playing hooky to me.
josh- who has big respect for Potter even if he doesn't always agree with him.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 7, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #9 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Same reason that any other climb can get named. The rule (as I understand it) is if you climb something new, you have the right to name it. Technically speaking, Epitaph is a free variation to Playing Hooky. The fact that it follows the exact same line is irrelevant. And besides, what would Lynn Hill rename the Nose as? The probiscis? The shnoz? Its a name of a feature that just happens to have a route up it.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Apr 7, 2003, 4:29 AM
Post #10 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
free versions of aid routes get new names pretty frequently. Astroman?
|
|
|
|
|
offwidthclimber
Apr 7, 2003, 5:02 AM
Post #11 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2001
Posts: 290
|
last night he was apparently just south of here in Moscow, Idaho for a climbing festival. i was pissed that i couldn't make it. his multimedia presentation would have been cool.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Apr 7, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #12 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
Petsfed,
Ok There is no variation about it, The line potter renamed Epitaph is the exact same line as the original route- Playing Hooky. The only difference is he climbed it free instead of with aid, and he moved a couple of belays to eliminate hanging- more an ethical decision. There fore he did not climb something new, he climbed something that had seen many ascents, only he climbed it in a different style.
Camhead,
Point taken about astroman, but frequently? Wasn't Astroman Freed in the early '80's? I'm not sure when it was actually freed but it was awhile back...
When Is the last time that a significant route's name was changed just because it was freed?
Side note, I am not trying to say that my opinion is absolute here, just interested in the discussion.
One point of view is that it might be a little Arrogant to rename someone else's route.
And I'm certainly NOT saying Potter is arrogant.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
rockhound71
Apr 7, 2003, 6:44 PM
Post #13 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225
|
Not to disrespect anyone, but when you are climbing like a God, you can rename anything you want! Just my opinion!
Casey
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 7, 2003, 6:49 PM
Post #14 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I could pull out my Eldo guidebook, but I'm too lazy. As I recall, the Naked Edge wasn't always the Naked Edge. It changed names when somebody freed it. Likewise with Psycho. Jules Verne kept its name, but it had a cool name to begin with. Plenty of climbs on Mickey Mouse Wall are like that. Of course, these are Boulder ethics, so I can't speak for eastern Utah. And as you pointed out, that was years ago. There are, to this day, aid lines in Eldo that have not gone free, and haven't been climbed in years, because nailing is not allowed, just waiting to be reborn. However, if it is a big deal, you can bet in the next issue of climbing and Rock & Ice, Potter will get fricaseed. And I don't think that's right.
Also, to aid the climb Playing Hooky (5.12 C2) is completely different from freeing Epitaph (no rating yet) for the simple reason that its not Epitaph unless it goes free. I think future guidebooks will reflect this, although it is, frankly, splitting hairs.
|
|
|
|
|
jono
Apr 8, 2003, 12:20 AM
Post #15 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 2067
|
he was in idaho a couple days ago. it was like 5min away but i didnt get a chance to see him.
|
|
|
|
|
hangdoggypound
Apr 8, 2003, 12:58 AM
Post #16 of 16
(2747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2002
Posts: 169
|
Just to throw something new "out there" ---- Can you rename a free route if you climb it on aid????
Not to be totally facetious...I know nothing about aid. But it would be a new way to climb the same rock structure/features in a different fashion. Worthy of a new name?
More on topic, though, (yet not quite on topic) just because some climber hasn't broken a record in the last 6 weeks does not mean they aren't out there balancing and tip-toeing up some sweet rocks. It's a shame the way these mags make us think that the only interesting things happening in climbing done by the same 4 people. (that part is facetious)
|
|
|
|
|
|
