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Nailing question: Angles
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kungfuclimber


Apr 10, 2003, 7:13 PM
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Nailing question: Angles
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I do only clean aid up to A3 (sometimes semi-clean; bashing in nuts with nut-tool and hex). So far nothing that needs nailing cuz its like, scary eh? My question is that with the advent of modern pro like aliens, zeros and ballnutz (lowe balls) are angles used much? Not the sawed off kind, the original unmodified ones?

Trying to think of a placement that would take an angle but not a small cam.. :?:


passthepitonspete


Apr 10, 2003, 8:43 PM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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Like, nailing isn't that scary, eh? It's like, fun. You can bash the livin' bejeepers out of your pins, and then bounce-test 'em like there's no tomorrow. Just don't go bashin' pins into clean cracks for the helluvit. Practise in a recognized aid climbing area. And spell "practise" with an "s" cuz you're a hoser, eh?

You are right - you really don't use regular full-length angles all that much, though for some routes, especially the bashed-out ones, the sawed-offs are indispensable. Skillfull trickery can get you up pinscars with your Aliens and HB offsets and such.

In my [somewhat limited El Cap] experience, even on the harder nail-ups like Sea of Dreams, The Shortest Straw and Native Son, the most you will need in full-length angles are 2 half-inch babies and 2 five-eights-inch stubbies.

[I really ought to broaden my horizons more, but I just *love* El Cap! Besides, I wouldn't want to have to carry all my stuff any farther to the base. Sheesh.]

Round off your pin rack with these sawed-offs and you should be set:

2 - 1/2" s.o.
2 - 5/8" s.o.
2 - 3/4" s.o.
1 - 1" s.o. for good luck

You can click here to read about how to make a sawed-off. Check the footnote at the bottom of the page, eh?

And like, take OFF, eh?


climbingcowboy


Apr 11, 2003, 1:26 AM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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What do ya think about this, worth getting? 170$ http://www.mgear.com/.../products/640081.jpg



http://www.mgear.com/...evel3_title=Aid+Gear


passthepitonspete


Apr 11, 2003, 8:19 AM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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Ha! Those are Yanqui dollahs! You poor Merrican. Were you a Hoser, you could visit the Mountain Equipment Co-op, and buy your pitons at about 60% of the price you pay in the states!

See, your mighty buck buys a lot of our measly Beaver Bucks [those are like discount dollars from a gas station, eh?] but it doesn't matter when it comes to pins - the MEC won't ship to the states in order to protect the price-fixing of your U.S. distributors!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha!

So if you can't find yourself a Hoser delivery boy, you may well be required to pay too much.

So have a look at what's there. I'm not going to do the math - you can do that yourself. I'll tell you what you probably need, cuz there is stuff there you really don't need.



Here are the problems and some comments:

1. The hooks are OK, but you should have two of each. They are the Grappling and the Sky [now called Cliffhanger]. The slings are too long, and will need to be replaced. Consult my index to find out how to sling slings.

2. It's OK having a RURP - you won't use it much, but it sure looks cool. Hand it to a hottie in the parking lot, and if she knows what it is, she could be a prospect.

3. At least in Yosemite, the 3/4" and 1" angles are only needed full-length in rare occasions. The last time I used one was on the second pitch of NA Wall, where for some reason they fit when nothing else did. If you're climbing elsewhere, they might be more useful, but I doubt it. You might end up sawing them off. A 1" s.o. is rare to need in my experience.

4. The baby and the stubby are OK as is, or you could saw.

5. The selection of KB's is probably OK. I'm assuming it's 1 - 4.

6. There is no rule 6.

7. The arrow selection [1] is sort of OK. I haven't placed many #4 wedges in a long long time, so personally I wouldn't buy one for Yos. Having one each of #5 and #6 is OK. You should definitely double up on the #1, #2 and #3 sizes.

In summary, only the #4 arrow and the 1" angle [which you would saw if you kept] are less useful. You should buy some more of the baby and stubby angles, and saw some off. Chris Mac's SuperTopo Big Walls Guide is QUITE specific about the pins you need for each wall, so buy accordingly.

If you're wondering what pins [and other stuff] to buy, please consult my Index. Scroll down about half way to the Climbing Gear section beneath the Solo Systems section, and I believe it's the first post which is called Ask Dr. Piton - I need advice on a starter aid rack.

Cheers, mate!

See you in The Valley, eh? Be sure to bring some o' that faaaaaaaahn redneck whiskey.

[I hope you noticed the complete absence of a diphthong in the word "fine", and that I spelled "whisky" with an "e", just for you]


atg200


Apr 11, 2003, 9:12 AM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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For the desert the larger and wierder pins are very useful. There are many scars where you need sawed off 3/4" or 1" angles, though most of them can be filled with a red alien if you are really persistent and willing to roll the dice a bit. I would add a bigass hook to that as well - a ring angle claw is really nice for hooking big flakes and can get you past some free moves if you are a crap free climber like me.


copperhead


Apr 11, 2003, 11:17 AM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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Instead of following Pete’s link and getting a schist-load of other info, you can read here what Pete doesn’t have to say about sawed-offs:

In reply to:
Sawed-Offs
To make a sawed-off, use a hacksaw to cut off 40% of the blade of the pin. Then file the points smooth. Finding someone with a power saw would definitely be the Better Way! Do not buy those pre-made short pins which I believe are sold by Pika. They might work OK in limestone solution pockets, but I'll take a good ol' sawed-off angle any day for granite.


A regular hacksaw blade WILL NOT WORK! You must use a carbide hacksaw blade and a serious amount of elbow grease (unless you have access to a machine shop). You can cut about 3/4 of the way through the pin and then snap off the tip by placing the pin at a 45 degree angle in a 90 degree corner (rock or concrete) and then hammering on it (or you can just put it in a solid vise...). As for cutting off 40% of the pin length, I recommend cutting the pins to different lengths to accommodate various pin scars; no two placements are the same. All four of the sawed-off sizes that Pete mentioned are useful though the 3/4” size is used more often on trade routes. After you chop off the end of the pin, you will want to grind down the burrs and sharp edges and put a radius on the top corners (to streamline pin). A standard file will work in place of the grinder but requires significantly more time and effort. DO NOT get the pin too hot when grinding! Pitons and hooks are made of heat-treated 4130 chro-moly steel. Overheating the steel (turns blue and purple) while grinding will ruin the heat treatment. Dip the pin in water periodically as you grind. Smooth off the surface with abrasive cloth for the final touch. Now go slam that puppy into stone (but don’t fix it!).

As Andrew has said, full-length angles are very useful in soft sandstone.

-------
edit - vise...(?)


climbingcowboy


Apr 11, 2003, 5:41 PM
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Nailing question: Angles [In reply to]
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Thanks guys


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