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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways......
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supertopoz


Apr 12, 2003, 6:47 AM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2003
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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways......
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This is is boys and Girls the point which goes beyound the abilities of Pete copper and others. Did you ever take so long to move such a punny little distance. :mrgreen:

How can I speed up my solo traverses, they are becoming my soul aim in life, to move across that space faster and faster.

Does wank :shock: come into, of cause you can not travel such a small distance without having such a poor show of hands. Can I speed it all up, of course, just try what I am doing a bit faster. Does pete's tag rack system fall down on a 60 meter side ways run? in my humble opinion it sure does. :twisted:

Now Here's the deal, place cam weight, cinch in daisy, place next cam, and so on. Some times hooks and other wonderful wonders.
Leave a small gap and no problems, ladies and gentlemen :roll: this is the point. "I" and I mean me, can not find any way to get from one belay station thirty meters away and back and then clean without aiding the same bitchin pitch three bitchin times.

Belive me I have knukled down the lower outs and the jug ins more times than you can imagine. Am I still a wanker I sure as hell am I hate the fact that I can free climb the same distance in 3 minutes. What the hell am I missing, I can climb up with a reasonable pace, I can rap down faster than a rat out of a sinking ship. But for the life of me I can not move to the side.

Drink a beer and then hint at what I might be m ssing tell me the essentials.

Okay What I might have missed, I am traversing and using a many of mr Pitons fundementals.


renobdarb


Apr 12, 2003, 8:55 AM
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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways...... [In reply to]
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Drink a beer and then hint at what I might be m ssing tell me the essentials.

You're missing the "i" in "missing"... can't help with much more than that... :(


punk


Apr 12, 2003, 10:13 AM
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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways...... [In reply to]
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II never tried it but here u go …
Think of a traverse in solo situ as a Tyrolean traverse. (No need for the pulley)
in the beginning of the traverse try to build a side pull anchor then when u get to the anchor at the end pitch build another side pull anchor and tighten it.
Now when u go on it use the two ascenders method (oppositional) to go back (easier to pass the pro this way) and when going back to the top of the pitch (after freeing the bottom anchor and the pig) cleaning use the GriGri method with ascender (easier to lower and clean pro this way) and u only aided the pitch once
Use it only when the traverse is must be high (lip, sharp rock, etc) if not an object then Lower down from the top of the pitch and pendulum back in to the bottom anchor and start from there
The later I did try and it works well …but then again I could be big wall theorist :roll:


wallrat


Apr 12, 2003, 12:25 PM
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traverses [In reply to]
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Let me ask a question...are you leading on only one set of aiders? Try two. That'll diminish the need to adjust your daisies. There is little if any need to move up on a traverse, right? If there's any fixed gear, do big runouts after it, hooking/camhooking whenever possible, and be fast at lowering out, that'll help on the jug. Lastly, I prefer to leave a good bit of slack to rap down to the low point on the way back, and then jug up to the belay. What could possibly be slower than aiding it three times? PTPP may have some feedback on this, but I'd try not to tag in this instance, unless the pitch goes up beyond the traverse.


supertopoz


Apr 12, 2003, 5:11 PM
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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways...... [In reply to]
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A tyrolean traverse sounds good, but over sixty meters I would worry about the forces applied to me belay stations, so what about a series of smaller tyrolean traverses or more like big lower outs and jug ins. So I trail a secound line with me which I fix every 20 meters or so. I don't make it tight but give it enough slack to lower out and jug in. Only trouble is if the traverse is more than 60 meters.

I guess many traverses go straight across, but the one I am on goes up and down a little too. I use two aiders (that is fours sets of steps). What am I going to use for me tyrolean? I can but a pully on and whizz down as fast as I can scraping my body and everything else on the wall, or i'll give the series of lower outs and jug ins a try.


punk


Apr 12, 2003, 6:34 PM
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When it takes 6 hours to move 30 meters side ways...... [In reply to]
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A tyrolean traverse sounds good, but over sixty meters I would worry about the forces applied to me belay stations.
The tension apply will not increase with the length. actually I will think it will decrease since there is more stretch on the rope (bigger angle) it is more depending in the angle between the anchors
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what about a series of smaller tyrolean traverses.
This will take more time…I think the whole purpose of your post was about how to save time…
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So I trail a second line with me which I fix every 20 meters or so. I don't make it tight but give it enough slack to lower out and jug in. Only trouble is if the traverse is more than 60 meters.
Sound like rebelay in caving situation …possible but taking time to set and can be extended with 9mm or 8mm trailing line all u have to do is to pass the knot
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I guess many traverses go straight across, but the one I am on goes up and down a little too.
Try to keep the line as straight as possible by extending the protection points so u will have a straight line
I will say go to a boulder or to a bottom of a cliff and try it to see what works for you
hope this helped :wink: :)

BTW
Hypothetically speaking if u do full pitch of 60M traverse and have continued up for another 60m and build anchor there u will need extension minimum of 25M to go back to your anchor on HUGE pendulum

(60m / 60m= 1= tan)
Co tan 1 = 45º
(Sin 45º = 0.707106)
Hypotenuse = 60m / 0.707106 = 84.8529m
84.8529m – 60m = 24.8529m

So get a minimum of 30m extension 9mm cord if u need to do a full 60m traverses in addition to 3 (60m) leading ropes
:lol: :lol: 8)


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