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a-dog
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Apr 13, 2003, 4:29 AM
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Has anybody out there tried this shoe out? I am in the market for some new rock shoes and these seem to be exactly what I need. I was also wondering what you guys thought about using high top climbing shoes to protect you ankels from shredding up in cracks. Any info would be appreciated.
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traddad
Apr 14, 2003, 4:30 AM
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Stiff....as in beat the sole with a Yosemite hammer before you climb stiff. That's what I had to do to get any feeling for the rock and to not feel like I was wearing walking casts. In their defence, I will say I usually wear Anasazi Velcros. They fit like Anasazi lace ups. Also make sure of how long they have sat on the shelf....mine have old rubber. I'm going to have to sand them before I use them next time.
Crack Fu here I come...as soon as the finger heals.
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pattray
Apr 14, 2003, 5:54 PM
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I’ve had mine for almost a year now and I love them, I’ve found them to be great for all types of climbing especially crack climbing. Other than I bought mine a little tight they are great.
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petsfed
Apr 14, 2003, 6:08 PM
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High tops are only worth while (specifically for the high tops) if you're dealing with deep cracks. Otherwise its not doing anything for you.
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bhudda
Apr 14, 2003, 6:21 PM
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great shoe, my favorite and the stiff sole is really nice 5-6 pitches in :D
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potreroed
Apr 14, 2003, 6:24 PM
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The Newton is a good all-around shoe. They are a stiff shoe which gives good support on small holds on vertical rock and for crack climbing. If you climb mostly overhanging stuff you would want a different shoe. I've used mine for a couple of months and I like them. Be sure you buy them for a comfortable fit--they will stretch a bit but with the sticky rubber there is no need to wear a super-tight shoe.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2003, 5:56 AM
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Yup, definitely a stiff shoe, but I like that feature. In addition, I find they edge really well, and with the stiffness, you can stand on tiny, tiny feet and feel pretty solid. Good for placing gear.
I also like the 'S' lacing design because the laces stretch broadly across the tongue, which is good because I've got big feet and the ball part of my foot is wide and gets substantially narrower into the arch. When you've got shoes with less distance across the tongue, it can be harder to get a good fit. This might also mean the toe box is a bit wider, but that's a good thing for me.
I also boulder and sport climb in them and they've performed wonderfully.
Good shoe.
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karlbaba
Apr 15, 2003, 6:07 AM
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One of best all around granite shoes. Stiff enough to edge very well but just sensitive enough that you don't lose contact with the rock.
High top shoes are for beginner-intermediate crack climbers. If you're going to do an OW and are worried about your ankles, wear neoprene or elastic ankle braces or socks.
Peace
karl
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a-dog
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Apr 15, 2003, 7:12 AM
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since I am not able to try on a pair of the newtons near where I live, do you think it would be safe to try on other five ten shoes to get my size range and then order them? Or do you thing that each model within a company would fit completely differently?
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karlbaba
Apr 15, 2003, 2:50 PM
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If you can try another pair of 5.10 board lasted shoes, that should work. 5.10 shoes fit notoriously small. Your usual street shoe size will feel plenty snug in 5.10 shoes in my experience
Peace
karl
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fritzski
Apr 15, 2003, 3:36 PM
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With Five Tens, the sizes run different even between their different models, so be careful.
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freudian
Apr 15, 2003, 3:45 PM
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A-Dog:
I own these shoes, as do many of my climbing partners. I personally puchased these shoes 'in a pinch' from the local outdoors shop. This was pretty much the only shoe they had available, so I was forced to get it.
Here are some point forms things I found out ffrom my experience with them over 2 seasons:
Bad stuff (for me) :
- stiff
- insensitive
- lined = they smell bad & you swim around in them when they're wet & don't stretch
- synthetic leather = they smell bad and don't stretch
- Pretty expensive (150 canadian plus 15% taxes)
Good stuff (for me) :
- Fairly comfortable (until they get wet)
- C4 Rubber is very sticky (keep it clean)
- easy to tie fast and tight
- You can climb multi-pitch (long time) with them without too much pain
Other notes:
- They won't stretch, so buy a size that perfectly fits
- They're not very techincal... but a good overall all around trad shoe
- I wouldn't use them on tiny foot holds, cause your feet with SWIM in them
Mine are wearing through the toes now and it has ruined the shoe so I cannot even resole them. I will buy 5.10 Moccasyms or Boreal Stingers, next.
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froggy
Apr 15, 2003, 4:15 PM
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YUCK + YUCK + YUCK.. You can't feel anything in these shoes.. but some people claim to like that. I am use to Moccasyms so these shoes really suck for me... But, if you like having clogs on your feet go for it :)
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leec
Apr 15, 2003, 4:32 PM
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Love 'em. First shoe I can wear for more than three pitches. These will keep going all day and still run down the descent after. They aren't cheap - but are holding up well to the abuse.
I do agree with the smell though - I thought it was just me!
OK - so they're not the most technical boot, but they sure are comfy. Buy a second pair of slippers for bouldering/steep/super hard routes and enjoy the pain.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2003, 5:20 PM
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A comment about sizing.
I had a pair of newtons for about 3 months, and there was a defect in the rubber. 5.10 is good about replacing stuff, so the gym where I bought them let me switch them out there.
The guy who manages the place told me to try on a couple different sizes, because 5.10 shoes can differ by half a size from lot to lot. So just because i had size 11 before won't mean I'll wear 11 this time. For me, I got the same size, but I tried on a couple pairs.
The guy at the gym knows his stuff though, and climbs in Newtons.
Lastly, try them on! There was a comment above by a guy who said his feet swim in them. Mine fit great. Different shoes for different feet.
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bhudda
Apr 15, 2003, 5:40 PM
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I have a few pairs of 5-10 shoes and the sizing is all over the board. I wear a size 10.5 and I have a pair of huecos that fit perfectly and are size 8.5, yet my Newtons are size 10 and fit great, just a little snug.
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leec
Apr 15, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Damn - another blonde moment! Sorry all - I was refering to my Heucos!
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holmeslovesguinness
Apr 15, 2003, 7:10 PM
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I've been climbing in Newtons for a while now and I generally like them. Very supportive shoe, really comfy. Edges well and is good in wider cracks. Seems to me they run pretty small, I ended up getting them at my normal street shoe size, maybe a tad larger (also so I can wear socks in them if need be for big cracks).
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