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ladybug84105
Apr 6, 2003, 6:41 AM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Newbie here.... still kinda struggling with 5.6. can anyone suggest a place for me to go outside that I might actually be able to accomplish??? Bobbi
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duskerhu
Apr 6, 2003, 9:17 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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Ah well, we've got a few 5.4 quarzite chimneys of 50' to 70' up here at Blue Mounds in southern Minnesota... Of course, 5.4 here is like 5.6 or 5.7 most other places... and its kind of a bit of a drive from SLC. Maybe look in your Utah routes db, or do a routes search... Good luck! duskerhu
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michaelmay513
Apr 6, 2003, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2002
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Go buy the wasatch front guide book, it has tons of good routes in the 5.6 range in big and little cottonwood canyons. :lol:
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youmeanupthere
Apr 13, 2003, 3:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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There is a great 5.6 in BCC that I did this weekend that you might enjoy. It's in the Dead Snag area of BCC which is just across the street from the Storm Mt picnic area. We did the arete route. It does require at a set of nuts and some cams would be nice. If you don't have any gear there are two bolted 5.6's in the SM picnic area which are ok climbs. Little Cottonwood is full of 5.6's, especially in the schoolroom area but like the Dead Snag area if you don't have a rack much of it is off limits. PM me if you have any :?: .
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phlyfisher
Apr 13, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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Go to the Dogwood picnic area. Walk down the trail until you get to the obvious climbing area. There are several 5.6 and easy 5.7 that you can toprope.
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ladybug84105
Apr 13, 2003, 3:49 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Thanks for those suggestions. I've been to dogwood and climbed the 5.7's up there. Its just so populated... We thought about going to storm mountain but didn't know how much of it was bolted so youmeanupthere, thanks for the info. I am also glad to hear that there is one up Dead Snag, the book I used made it look like they were all 5.11's. I am getting better though and it seems that I won't be climbing .7 or .8 for too long. We were also thinking about the S Curve crags, are any of those bolted and are they all pretty tough??
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blindslap
Apr 13, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Dead Snag Rocks! that was my first trad climb and i loved it. It's only got a couple sections of 5.6 and then almost the whole second pitch is 5.4. Really easy dihedral climbing with lots of opertunity to practice placing pro. The second belay is a little tricky because you need a really long sling, or a cordellete to sling a semi-detached block that's about three feet thick. I highly suggest this route only if you have good practice with setting anchors and feel compitent with multi-rappels. Always tie knots in the end of your rope and if you have a 60m rope you can make all the repels with only one rope. Get the utah guide book "Wasatch Climbing North" if you can still find a copy, or else theres climbing in the wasatch or somthing like that. They'll give you all the beta and a topo.
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scarecrow
Apr 13, 2003, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 12, 2002
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Come on do the West Slabs of Mount Olympus!! :lol: It's only something like 11 pitches. I did this last May and loved it. I feel like it was so simple that it could be done without a rope (of course, be prepared to fall about 1000 feet if you do happen to peel off. But it will be a nice tumble the whole way down.) But seriously, Dead Snag is good if your ready for multipitch climbing. And call me crazy but the route is kinda hard to follow. I've climbed it like 5 or 6 times and I seem to go a different way everytime. If you do find a book or something I believe the route's called Steort's Ridge. You climb of the East facing dihedral. -Good luck and have fun!!
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terrainerist
Apr 13, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2002
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I recommend Lumpy Ridge @ Estes Park CO. At The Left Book there is a bunch of high quality routes in the 5.5 to 5.7 range. Enough to keep you busy for a couple of days just in that one spot :) http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=2129 only a few listed here
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youmeanupthere
Apr 14, 2003, 2:35 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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The s-curve is largely a sport climbing wall. I don't recall much at the 5.6-5.8 level but from 5.9-5.13 there are a lot of fun climbs. Maybe it's something you might try to second if you get someone to lead.
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terrainerist
Apr 14, 2003, 3:39 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2002
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whoops, my bad... Lumpy aint in SLC...
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jwiggins
Apr 16, 2003, 1:59 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2003
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I suggest an early morning at the Salt Lake Slips - BCC. 5.6 Italian Arete is great and all bolts! There are also 5.7-5.10a/b bolted lines to play on. go early to avoid the crowds if you wish or go later and meet new friends. this is an area where many people bring beginners to learn. be kind to the crowds as this is one of the few areas in the wasatch that you can train beginners on gentle terrain with a reasonable approach.
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brianinslc
Apr 16, 2003, 5:19 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: But seriously, Dead Snag is good if your ready for multipitch climbing. And call me crazy but the route is kinda hard to follow. I've climbed it like 5 or 6 times and I seem to go a different way everytime. If you do find a book or something I believe the route's called Steort's Ridge. You climb of the East facing dihedral. -Good luck and have fun!! Hmmm... BCC: I'd argue that, if you're a fledgling 5.6 trad leader, you might not consider Steort's Ridge until you have a few routes at that grade under your belt. The last pitch is a little spooky and not well protected, and a fall would be very bad. Jig's up is much better, as is the route to the left of that (but, kind of a hard move for a 5.6, but pro is ok, but please place some). First pitch any of these can be a bit tough for someone breaking into easy trad. Patty's Ridge is good, but the creek will be blasting for awhile. Reservior Ridge is fun. All of the 5.6's on Mule Hollow wall are excellant and take a bunch of pro. Good exposure too. Careful on the gully descent, loose rock. Standard Ridge is fun too, and a nice longer romp. Can be a bit hard to get started on. Some excellant 5.6/5.5/5.4 trad leads at the Storm Mountain picnic area. Layback Crack, Epic Wall, etc. LCC: Schoolroom is 5.6, but, again, not for a 5.6 leader. First pitch of Pentapitch is super. Second pitch is kinda "interesting" for the grade, and you need good pro skills to adequately protect it. Lisa Falls has some nice easy trad too. As does the five fingers area on the Gate Buttress, but, some of these also fall into the "not for a 5.6 leader" catagory. Don't be afraid to just go out, climb easy grades, until your gear placing skills get solid. THEN worry about stepping into the higher grades. Mileage really counts for good trad skills. You really only have to blow a trad lead once to be done with climbing... Do you have a mentor? Get one. Someone that is patient and can critique your placements. Consider finding an out of the way crag to aid climb on trad pro, even an easy crack. Weighting every piece is a big eye opener to what works and what doesn't. There are tons of great easy and moderate trad routes in the canyons. The star system in the guide is good for pluckin' the classics, but, also be careful that some of the starred routes have been classics at the 5.6 grade for many years and maybe will seem awkward and sustained for their grade compared to newer routes. PM me if you like. I like doin' easy routes after work some daze, and its fun to find new partners. Brian in SLC
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trbrts
Apr 16, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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yeah, I'd say go to the Slips in BCC. Fun climbing and tyrolean traverse to boot. Look out for the boy scouts and church groups. Everyone loves the slips. Personally, I think the two 5.10's there are a ton of fun. But, it gets REALLY crowded on Saturday afternoons.
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