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epic_ed


Apr 21, 2003, 10:08 AM
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Zodiac beta
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This will probably get moved to the routes database, but I'm specifically soliciting for info from aid climbers who have done Zodiac.

At the moment, I don't have a topo of Zodiac but all the TRs I've read indicate the final pitch of Zodiac goes free at 5.6. I'm planning to solo the route in June and I'm wondering specifically about that section. What type of climbing is it? Slab/face? If so, is it protected by bolts or other fixed gear? If so, is it run out? Or reasonable? If it's a good mix of crack and face climbing, is there good gear? I guess what I'm getting at is I'd like to prepare as much as possible for rope soloing the last pitch 3,000 ft of the deck on a grigri where I need to pay out enough slack to make it to the next protection point.

I know this route gets soloed a lot. Anyone with some first hand accounts of how this last pitch went for them would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Ed


alpinestylist


Apr 21, 2003, 10:26 AM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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I think your best bet is to get a McTopo.

I didn't solo the Zodiac, but I did bring my girlfriend and lead everypitch. Kind of like soloing with twice the water and grief.

I don't remember specifically free climbing on the last pitch. IF you link the last two pitches, which is easy if you back clean the traverse, and keep the rope running straight you run into a bit of downward ramp movement if memory serves.

Get a McTopo, keep the pins in the pig (if you carry them at all).

Have a good time.


epic_ed


Apr 21, 2003, 11:03 AM
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"McTopo". That's beautiful. :lol:

Already in the works. I have used his stuff for other Valley routes and my buddy has the book. Well worth the money.

Ed


dsafanda


Apr 21, 2003, 11:23 AM
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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Just ask your question on the route beta section of SuperTaco.com
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta.html

Chris will probably answer himself.


Also, don't forget about Tuan's site
TR here...
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/zodiac-ware.html

pitch by pitch beta here...
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/zodiac-beta-ware.html


wonderbread


Apr 21, 2003, 11:38 AM
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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There is no mandatory free-climbing on the last pitch, maybe a few easy moves off the belay(it's been a while), but they should be of no concern. Have fun, it's a cool route.


passthepitonspete


Apr 21, 2003, 12:26 PM
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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Lunar Eclipse and The Shortest Straw both finish on the final pitches of Zodiac, so I've soloed it a couple times in recent memory. It wasn't hard. Yeah, there's free climbing, but it's all easy. Anything you don't want to free, you can aid.

The wide crack above Peanut Ledge can be easily dispensed with using a couple #4 Camalots, and less easily dispensed with one #1 Camalot and one #4 Friend, which is all I had with me both times.

For soloing, you want to link the last two pitches. The way you do it is to climb the penultimate pitch, and either backclean the bit way left or else rap back down and clean it, which is what I did.

Then leaving my pigs at the base of that second-last pitch, I soloed to the top, and then hauled the final two pitches in one. Because of the big jog left on that second-last pitch, you have to clean it to have enough rope left to finish. [This is where the extra chunk of lead rope I call the Solo Tag Extension comes in very handy]


epic_ed


Apr 21, 2003, 2:29 PM
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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So the last pitch is mainly a crack? No mandatory free? Cool. I'd like to free as much as possible, but I have no idea what my comfort level is going to be in that situation. I'll definitely combine the last two if possible; I'll be leading on a 65m rope.


wallrat


Apr 21, 2003, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
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Re: Zodiac beta [In reply to]
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You won't have any worries about that pitch...it's the easiest pitch on the route. By the time you get that high, you'll be such a hardman, you'll solo it with the bag on your back. Have fun, persevere. Soloing is a tremendous amount of work, but very satisfying. Gene.


passthepitonspete


Apr 21, 2003, 6:30 PM
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I don't know if I'd call it "mainly a crack" - you walk across a ledge, there were some easy free moves, some Aliens, some fixed heads, more free moves, and a couple aid moves to finish. At any rate, it's dead easy.


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