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simzboardr
Apr 22, 2003, 12:29 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Alright in the early summer when climbers line up for the nose (from what i hear) do you think people would mind if my and my partner would sneak in towards the front if we are using a ledge. we could climb like one or two pitches behind the party ahead of us but wont be using any of the bivies. what do you guys think
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passthepitonspete
Apr 22, 2003, 4:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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If you can climb as quickly as everyone else, you shouldn't really need a portaledge, as there are plenty of bivis en route.
One strategy is to climb and haul to Sickle Ledge at the top of P4, and bivi there, which is rarely done. Most people fix to the ground from Sickle, but you can legitimately "jump the queue" by sleeping on Sickle. Get up early from Sickle, and stay ahead.
Bivying in a portaledge is hugely more difficult and time-consuming than bivying on a rock ledge. It is entirely possible the extra time you save bivying on natural ledges will more than compensate for the increased wank factor bivying on a portaledge, especially if you have not done it much.
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dingus
Apr 22, 2003, 4:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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In reply to: If you can climb as quickly as everyone else, you shouldn't really need a portaledge, as there are plenty of bivis en route.
All true if the route isn't over crowded. And quickly is a highly subjective term on that climb! It is entirely possible to get hosed on bivi sites up high if the route has a bunch of parties on it. It happened to me. We got to El Cap Tower bivi in a day, only to discover a guided party of four there with ropes already established to the pendulum. They had been forced to wait there an entire day because there were another 3 parties between them and the summit, including another party of 4 at camp 4. They wouldn't willingly let us pass cause they rightly assumed we'd nab their next bivi site.
We were faced with the prospect of doing as they did... sitting on the ledge for an entire day waiting for the lines to clear. I didn't have enough smoking material for that, nor did we have enough water. We were counting on a 3 day ascent and this hosed us in a major way. We should not have attempted the route with so many other parties ahead of us...
If I were to do the climb again, I'd either take a ledge or wait till there were almost no parties on the route ahead of me.
Actually, if I get back on it, it will be as a 2 day or less ascent. I ain't gonna go through all that haulbag bullcrap for that particular climb again.
I'd at least have the ledge in the car. Then if the route is crowded, you can climb through (not jump places in the line though, that ain't cool... unless no one is around (hint hint late afternoon start...) and bivi on the ledge and not hose anyone.
DMT
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passthepitonspete
Apr 22, 2003, 4:55 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Wow. Good advice! It sure wasn't that crowded when I climbed it fifteen years ago!
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rockprodigy
Apr 22, 2003, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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There's nobody on the Salathe.
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