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rockjock04
Dec 27, 2001, 2:18 AM
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What Is your craziest move and did it work? Have you ever done some stupid move that didn't work and all the spectators laughed at you? Once, I was only a few inches from reaching a really high handhold, I couldn't dyno it because of my akward position. So... I took my chin and placed it on a huge positive angled foot hold, and used my neck muscles to lift my body up the few inches I needed to reach the hold. And it WORKED. I was so happy. My friends just laughed and my belayer almost fell over laughing. SO what CRAZY thing have you ever done?
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compclimber
Dec 27, 2001, 2:54 AM
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I am the dyno master (well at least in my own mind ) I have one up now at my gym that is 7 foot plus, its huge.
I also have a problem where you heel hook a sloper, grab a jib (those little tiny bad things that aren't good feet half the time) with your right hand, then dyno from that position...it's pretty sick, I'm the only one who has done it so far.
Oh ya, the thing you did was a "gotee sprag" a common form of Jessery, if you've ever climbed in Rifle you know what I'm talking about...If not send me a PM .
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graniteboy
Dec 27, 2001, 3:11 AM
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I Guess I don't have much to add, except maybe one of those moves on a mixed climb where you have one foot heel/toeing (sound of scratching crampons here...)in an overhanging offwidth crack while you heel hook an ice cauliflower with the other one, and one tool flailing to get a placement in some frozen moss above the roof while the other scratches tenuously at a dry tool placement at the lip of the roof....but that's just mixed climbing. It doesn't really count....
And Yes, It worked. Otherwise, I wouldn't be here.
[ This Message was edited by: graniteboy on 2001-12-26 19:12 ]
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greatgarbanzo
Dec 27, 2001, 4:05 AM
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I used to climb (on TR) on the features of a abandom building... once a guy from the TV wanted to film me and i say OK... The next day even my dad came to watch me climb the 6 stories building for the TV... I climbed up the easiest "route" but i was so tired and pumped that i was loosing it on the finals holds so a decided to "grab" one of the holds with my mouth, yep, i gave a byte to the thing, shaked out the arms and finished the route... I WONDER WHAT THE PEOPLE THAT SOUGHT ME ON TV THOUGH OF THAT
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colin
Dec 27, 2001, 4:31 AM
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I'd have to agree with comp. Heel-hook dynos (and dynos in general) are tons of fun. Also, sticking your head in a offwidth crack to shake out.
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phil_nev
Dec 27, 2001, 4:46 AM
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one of the first times i went outdoor climbing after going to gyms for ages i was on a nice 5.9 with overhang about a metre out, i didnt want toclimb for it, so i dyno-ed it, i caught the lip of the rock... i was soo happy till about a foot of the rock just broke off.... it just mised my belayer... But i agree with u guys, dyno's rock.... as long as the rock stays together
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ratstar
Dec 27, 2001, 5:52 PM
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rib dynos are awesome. We've got a secret spot in town its called spare rib and I have to dyno it cause I am short. But it still is awesome.
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airscape
Dec 27, 2001, 9:17 PM
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We where once climbing this nice little off width crack, and no one could reach a hold just above the crack, everyone slipped out just as they went for it, so I grabbed a helmet that I had with me, I climbed up and jammed my head into the crack at the end part, it stuck like hell and I could free both my arms without coming off, I then was free to positon my hands and feet exactly right for the next move I got to the hold without any problem... and to think everyone told me a helmet is useless on a sport route
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rockjock04
Dec 28, 2001, 4:27 AM
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thats hillarious, This dont have to do with climbing, but I wondered if you could hang upside down holding on with only your feet. so I made my 2 feet at a 90* angle with my shins and tried to hang on a monkey bar with it. Need less to say there aren't any muscles on top of your shins.
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totigers
Dec 16, 2002, 4:03 AM
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Anytime I jump from one rock to another according to my wife. She screams every time I do that.
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coldclimb
Dec 16, 2002, 4:21 AM
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rockjock: I have done that, with both the top of my foot and my heels with bent legs. Heels is by far easier, but mostly because of the bent leg aspect.
There was a dyno at the gym here that I tried, but never sent. It was a match start on a wide hold with two good feet below it. One had to dyno up, move at least one foot up to the starting handhold, and jump from there to a pocket about 8 feet up from that hold and out on a short 1-ft overhang ledge thing, with no other hands. I watched a guy do it after trying it forever. Sweet move.
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petsfed
Dec 16, 2002, 4:22 AM
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Just for kicks some of us at the gym like to hang from our toes. Its an extreme toe hook. Quite funny to see, but a little hairy to fall from.
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funktimonious
Dec 16, 2002, 4:39 AM
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Two hand holds above head, shoulders perpidicular to the wall, right foot on a chip, left foot going behind right leg to do a top-of-the foot hook of another hold at about knee height...it worked one time, then i couldn't do it anymore. Needless to say I looked like a total idiot.
(In a gym).
--PEace.
[ This Message was edited by: funktimonious on 2002-12-15 20:39 ]
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dcclimbing
Dec 16, 2002, 4:43 AM
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The strangest move I had to do ever was a figure 4 on a vert wall. I had just dinoed to a jug and the next hold was about 4 -5 feet up and a pretty poor sloper. I tried to dino to it, but with no feet on a wood panel wall, there was no way to stick the next hold without being static. So I walked my feet up the wall till I was almost upside down, I threaded my right leg through my arms, took my right hand off the hold momentarily so I could get the back of my knee rapped over the jug and on top of my hand. Then it was time to crank! I put my right hand back on then cranked myself up till I was sitting on my hand and could statically reach the hold. I think I gave myself a full body cramp with this one.
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crankingclimber
Dec 16, 2002, 4:55 AM
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Lisbon Quarry guys. It's in Ohio, and my god, it is home to the wierdest climbing on this planet. You hear about different styles of climbing at different crags, but this epitomises it. It's a wierd green colored rock, slick as hell, with just plain WIERD moves. All people who climb there, who could be solid at a grade at any other crag in the country drop down a grade cause it's just so bizarre, and the locals make you look like a weakling. For instance, my wierdest to date: Climb up the route to a small ledge. The next few feet are completely blank, and the required move is a mantle, only the wall is steep enought that you fall backwards. So, I mantled up, and then swung my right foot way out to the right, so I'm sideways on the cliff, my left foot pasted down the wall so I wouldn't come off the mantle. From there I got off my right hand, I'm virtually sideways at this point, and wedged my thumb behind a sort of flake thing. I then got my left knee up onto the ledge, and shot my left hand off the ledge, and rammed that left thumb into the flake under my right thumb. My body then did a completely sideways barn door, pivoting from my right foot and smeared left knee, and my thumbs desperatly straining to pull me back to the rock. I swayed WAY out, and was barely able to stop my pendulum with my screaming thumbs, holding my breath in and feeling like I would explode. Don't know how I kept it. Major body stress. Once I pulled myself back in I shot that right hand up to the crimp I was manteling towards and completed the climb. My god. And the guy who put the draws up for me was an overweight 70 year old, the route was like 5.10 or 11. He did it easily, however he'd been climbing at that crag for 25 years.
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climber_dude
Dec 16, 2002, 9:06 AM
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i once did a toe hook above my head on a roof and another time i strecthed so much on a drop knee i pulled a muscle just so i could reach the next hold
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phyre
Dec 16, 2002, 9:15 AM
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I once did a heel hook and then had to do a horizontal dyno out and up for a left hand. I wouldn't have been that big a deal but it was just after sunset and I was working mostly off of the memory of what I had seen from the ground. It was pretty simple in the daylight.
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otter
Dec 16, 2002, 9:24 AM
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half my body stuck in an offwidth.. and my feet flailing out in space...I was held there by an arm bar...back of upperarm against one side...palm of same arm against the other. I actuallly had to move upward by inching first one side and then the other of the arm bar up the offwidth. And yes, I had a peanut gallery of strangers goading me on!
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roughster
Dec 16, 2002, 9:49 AM
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You want to see some of mine
Clip #1: Vic's Dyno V3 Nut Tree Boulders
http://www.climbingchannel.com/cgi-bin/framed/2792/vicdyno.htm
Clip #2: Boomshaka 5.12c Frustration Creek
http://www.climbingchannel.com/cgi-bin/framed/2792/boom.htm
And yes those are both me.
Edit: By the way I am 6'1". Vic's Dyno is about a 6 foot, full cut loose, two handed dyno
[ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-12-16 01:53 ]
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roughster
Dec 16, 2002, 9:55 AM
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Forgot to mention, play with the slider a little bit for a new perspective on both those moves particularly Boomshaka. That move is all points leaving the rock in consequitive motion out a near horizontal roof.
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wildtrail
Dec 16, 2002, 10:40 AM
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Craziest move?
How about:
Into rock climbing. I call that pretty crazy, but I haven't looked back since.
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monkeyarm
Dec 16, 2002, 11:08 AM
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OK, this isn't a crazy move, but just one that looked funny.
I was was pulling a full split on the wall to reach my next foot hold. From tehir I had to shift my weight completely onto my right foot and the next foothold was really high. Too high for me to reach my foot too.
So I had to rach out grab my own foot pick it up and place it on the next hold. I tore my pants, but the move worked.
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frig
Dec 16, 2002, 12:59 PM
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Spray.
I was running out a Massive 5.2 and had to use my little can opener for a pin. Crazy.
[ This Message was edited by: frig on 2002-12-16 05:03 ]
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redpoint73
Dec 16, 2002, 2:23 PM
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I was on Narcissus at Summerville Lake, WV. I made stupid sequence mistake. In order to fix it without hanging, I had to do an almost-Rose (my right arm and head was crossed under my left arm REALLY far, but I did not have to step through). My friends thought it was really cool looking. But a partner said that if I did "the Rose" on any clmb but "the Rose", that it was probably a sequence mistake!!! Especially on a 12a.
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lox
Dec 16, 2002, 4:05 PM
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I was like... "Hey baby, if we were 2 squirrels, could I nut in your hole ?!?!?!!?"
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