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strider
Apr 16, 2003, 10:34 PM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 173
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passthepitonspete
Apr 17, 2003, 4:44 AM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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I write this with the caveat that I have never used a Silent Partner. I have, however, held one in my hand. It works under the principal of a seatbelt in that it locks during sudden acceleration.
I believe there will be a number of problems attempting to substitute this thing for a Croll:
- it might not lock when you sit on it, you might have to jerk it
- it is big and klunky and you will "lose ground" each time you sit
- for the Frog System to be efficient, you have to be "hunched over", and this may not be possible with the Silent Parter
Most any ascender can be used in place of the Croll under two conditions:
- the ascender is placed as LOW on you as possible, and note that some climbing harnesses to not allow a low enough point of connection for the system to work well
- you find a way to hold it up [Petzl C26 Torse is best] and hunch you over at the same time.
Do you have two ascenders already? You can certainly make one replace the Croll. This is what I did for Heinz, and it worked fine with his two handled ascenders. Perhaps buy one handled, and one Basic? You could also use the basic for your 2:1 Hauling Ratchet.
Do you already have a Grigri? I would use it rather than spend the big bucks on the Silent Partner. But that's just me - I like my Grigri for soloing.
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epic_ed
Apr 17, 2003, 5:01 AM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I've used my buddies SP and it is not an ascender substitute. It takes momentum to get it to lock up and feeds freely either direction without the speed -- just like a seat belt as Pete mentioned.
Ed
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savedbymynuts
Apr 17, 2003, 8:45 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 101
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Before you buy the silent partner you might want to read the manual
Wrenindustries has published it on the web.
Concerning your query, look up page 7 under top roping.
they state
"Also, because of the nature of the setup for top roping, and the speed
required for the Silent Partner to lock up, expect to fall a little further
than you would when being belayed."
look up the manual at: http://wrenindustries.com/silentmanual.pdf
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iamthewallress
Apr 23, 2003, 8:16 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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For what it still might be worth...Although I wouldn't even think of doing a free lead without it, the SP doesn't work very well in TR/fixed line scenarios. If the rope isn't making an upside down U around the clove drums, it will catch in the most unpleasant of ways and require hand feeding. And, as others mentioned, you always loose a little ground before you come to a stop...kind of exhausting for ascending.
I got the impression from your 'never ascended a fixed line' comment that you are mostly solo free climbing? If you are soloing moderate ground, the frog system is going to be overkill and probably not even the most efficient (as in laziest and quickest) way to get to the top. That system is great for free hanging jug-fests.
If you are on slabby stuff, you probably won't even need aiders...just slap the jugs on the fixed rope and walk up the climb with the assistance of the rope. Otherwise, if you're just using the ascenders to clean free climbing (especially if you're bringing along the whole rig for multipitch) you might want to consider one jug, a gri-gri, and simpled foot loops tied from cord or webbing (or adjustable aiders) to keep your bulk down.
It's probably a good idea to have a gri-gri with you when leading on the SP anyway (if you need to "take" or lower, especially on a crummy piece, you won't have to whip to get the gri-gri to engage), so this method of jugging will keep your list of extra gear to a minimum.
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poindexter
Apr 23, 2003, 8:44 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 11
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Your wanting to solo walls, yet you have never jugged a line ever?????????????????????????? talk about a step skipper.
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apollodorus
Apr 23, 2003, 8:52 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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You're going to need a second ascender for cleaning pitches, or a Gri-Gri (TBW). If you do the Frog with a Gri-Gri, run the free end of the rope up and through a biner on the footloop ascender. As you stand up, you pull the rope down, like hauling yourself up.
If you get stuck with one ascender, put it on your harness and use a prusik or klemheist knot for the foot loop.
And stay clipped in to both at all times.
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