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simzboardr
Apr 24, 2003, 3:24 AM
Post #1 of 5
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 232
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help, everything i do when setting an anchor just gets the big clusterf*** i can't help it. Any tips on what to set first and how to keep it clean.
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wallrat
Apr 24, 2003, 5:04 AM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
Posts: 155
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Well, I'm sure you'll get an earfull...but here's what I do. First of all, let's say just for an example that the belay is off to the right side of the crack, three bolts.
A large locker goes on each bolt, and a full length runner goes from each bolt to the next one, interconnecting the whole belay. Next X the centers of the runners, and put a locker there too. That gives you at least 5 places to clip in (3 bolts, 2 X'ed runners).
Set up the haul on the OFF side, so that it doesn't get in the way of your partner, who's coming up on the L. Hang your (lead)rope bag (if you use them) in the center. I like the lower X'ed runners for that, because it leaves the bags low & out of the way. For the haul line, I flake it over the pig in long loops, or through a runner, and clip it to the pig's bolt. Don't block access to the top of the pig, cuz after your nap (while guy #2 is leading), you'll be hungry and need to get to the food & OE800.
If you want to hang the rack, I keep it on a full length runner, on the left hand side so you can both get to it to rerack. Try to keep things where they're going to be used next. Set things up for the next phase (flake ropes, organize the rack, get some water for your bro, etc.).
Fix the lead line to the left hand bolt (in this case), or to a piece placed a bit higher in the crack if you can. This gives you some more room, simplifies the mess, and sets the line a bit higher so your partner can jug up INTO the belay, instead of being stuck lower. This eases the rack changeover when you're eye to eye. Just make sure this is BOMBER, because your bro is jugging on it. It also gives your second his first piece and gets him on his way. I tie my end of the lead line into the center bolt, pig on the right, jug line on the left. That's just how I do it...there's surely more ways out there.
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simzboardr
Apr 24, 2003, 12:27 PM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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hey thanks man. From all my trad climbing experience with anchors, equalizing this and that. I guess with big bolts its not as important to equalize it,...that sounds really easy waht you said.
Thanks a ton
Pete
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wallrat
Apr 24, 2003, 3:40 PM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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One thing I didn't mention is how to keep the 'Biner Cluster Factor down. The first biner that go into either the bolts, or through the runners (PTPP calls these power points, I believe) CANNOT be loaded up with everything you brought with you. Try not to put more than about three things into each PP. One already is the runner going to the next bolt. So, that means this; put another 'biner into it and hang your stuff off of that. It's much easier to get to something you need at the PP(and which is nearly always under weight when you need it), if there is not 15 things hanging on top of it.
Now, if you screwed up and have to unpack the pig at the belay because you didn't put some water up top, use several long runners, and hang everything on those. I have a bunch of 12" spectra runners, which I love. I use them to clip extra rack to, and just to keep things organized (extra TCU's on one, extra Camalots on one, etc.).
You can girth hitch them onto the bag, or clip them to it's daisies, and they aren't too long. My pig doesn't have daisies, so perhaps you wouldn't need these.
One last point; buy yourself a ton and a half of lockers. I have about thirty, and that's about right for me (but certainly not too many). They're worth their weight in Gold. Gene.
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