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getting a 5.11
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jay_climbingchick


Apr 25, 2003, 7:22 AM
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getting a 5.11
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I have been climbing for over a year now. I am about a 5.10+ outdoor climber. I heard that jumping up to a 5.11 is a big step. Is that true? If so how do you overcome it? Can anyone help?


katydid


Apr 25, 2003, 9:40 AM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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Are you a 5.10 gym climber, or a 5.10 outdoor climber? They're two different animals.

Either way, the best thing you can do, assuming you're leading sport 5.10s outdoors, is to follow someone up 11a's or chuck a toprope on some routes and noodle around, just like you would have TR'd easier grades when you were working your way up those. Get feedback from people who climb harder than you. Is there a technique or strength thing you need to get better at? Do you need to work on your head game? Find that out, work on your weaknesses, and away you go. :mrgreen:

k.


timstich


Apr 25, 2003, 2:24 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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It's purely a mental step, I have found. Physically it was not that big of a step to go from 5.10+ to 5.11. Mentally, it continues to undermine my confidence.


Partner missedyno


Apr 25, 2003, 2:57 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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yeah, i've met a few 11's that i can climb... on one flukey occasion i ticked and 11D! but i'm no where near consistent with climbing 11s....

keep building a foundation of 10's... i'm focusing on 10's now and trying the occasional 11... focus on endurance and be patient... pushing yourself could easily lead to injury


timstich


Apr 26, 2003, 1:37 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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yeah, i've met a few 11's that i can climb... on one flukey occasion i ticked and 11D! but i'm no where near consistent with climbing 11s....

keep building a foundation of 10's... i'm focusing on 10's now and trying the occasional 11... focus on endurance and be patient... pushing yourself could easily lead to injury

Exactly. I injured my wrist tendon in the left wrist pushing myself too hard in getting a 5.10+ that I can now cruise with ease. I'm keeping the same conservative bailout attitude when I feel the slightest twinge of pain now. Keep having fun, too! I have just run out of most of the easy climbs to do around where I live. Bummer. I really enjoy tall, pumpy 5.9s. That's almost my favorite grade of climb!

-Tim


grigriese


Apr 30, 2003, 1:09 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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The first year I climbed I would struggle up anything with a top rope on it. My elbows always hurt, shoulders were in pain, fingers were sore, etc... I backed off and started working the 10's, then leading the 10's and now leading 11's. I say build up your strength. It's a head game for sure. But I think it's really essential to establish your foundation, physically and mentally, before you deal with the heady hard stuff. Injuries suck! You can't climb if you get injured!!!

Edited for this>>> I've been climbing for almost 2 years


ecocliffchick


Apr 30, 2003, 1:17 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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The jump to 5.11 from 5.10 should feel like a big step, because it's actually closer to 4 steps. The difference between a 5.8 and a 5.9 is really about the same as from 5.10a to 5.10b...so since you want to get to 5.11a you should make sure you work through all the 5.10 grades first.


aimeerose


May 2, 2003, 9:00 AM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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I didn't find the jump from 5.10+ to 5.11 nearly as tough as the jump from 5.11+ to 5.12. When I started leading 5.10c's and d's I found I could work 11a's and get them pretty quick. I think top-roping harder stuff is good for making the jump between grades. You should know your body well enough not to push yourself so hard as to get injured. If you're already climbing hard 10s, toproping in the 11 range is not likely to injure you. Just don't do it if it hurts!


Partner missedyno


May 2, 2003, 11:30 AM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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Exactly. I injured my wrist tendon in the left wrist pushing myself too hard in getting a 5.10+ that I can now cruise with ease. I'm keeping the same conservative bailout attitude when I feel the slightest twinge of pain now. Keep having fun, too! I have just run out of most of the easy climbs to do around where I live. Bummer. I really enjoy tall, pumpy 5.9s. That's almost my favorite grade of climb!

-Tim

i'd have to say i like 5.9's as well. you never really know what you're going to get!

i also agree on the bailout rule.... if i feel that familiar wrist or elbow pain, i bail and play on easy stuff. obviously my body isn't ready for the move yet, or i'm using too much strength, not enough techniquey balance...


climbergirl


May 13, 2003, 5:04 PM
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Re: getting a 5.11 [In reply to]
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My "jump" to 5.11 was actually pretty mellow. I toproped my first and then felt good enough to lead it all in one day. I haven't lead a ton of them, but I feel confident to try almost any .11 (not roofs though!) As for progression, TR, then when you're ready, lead one that feels good. Don't push yourself too hard, and don't be badgered into doing it. For me, it was all about being ready...self-psyched is what I like!


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