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hishopper
Jan 26, 2003, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Jan 10, 2002
Posts: 387
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For those that don't know, more than half of O.P. (the better half too) is closed due to land purchase. I've been told by someone that talked directly with the new landowner that someone fell (hiking, not climbing) and threatened to sue. However every climber I've talked to is under the impression that if he did in fact say that, it was merely an easy lie to cover his real reasons, whatever they may be.
In any case, the 2nd half of the park is marked by a no trespassing sign. While some in the area have learned that the new owner doesn't actually own the face of the crag but only the ground at the bottom, and have thus resourcefully rap-ed down to within a foot of the bottom to start climbing with a top belay... I'm more inclined to just try and tread lightly on the parts we still do have legal access to, in hopes that eventually this guy will see the light.
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da5id
Apr 26, 2003, 2:01 AM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2003
Posts: 155
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i know a guy who's rapped down before, and just today i pissed across the property line, but ive never really checked out the cliffs past it. i heard that the guy actually moved across the street with full knowledge of the climbing activities into the new property. guess he's not a big fan of climbing. i recommend flaming bags of poo on his doorstep until he sees the light. except not, thatd probably just get me arrested and hurt the cause. oh well
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cnizzle516
Sep 17, 2010, 3:55 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
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It doesn't really help when every time I climb here I see at least a dozen empty bottles or leftover wrappers. What happened to Leave No Trace?
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ClimbSoHigh
Apr 11, 2011, 12:36 PM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 208
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Whats the current status on O.P? Headed out there over the weekend to check out the open climbs and found the pond parking lot which cleary said climbing was OK. We ended up parking where the guidebook indicated instead, and started exploring north to south to see where the propery line started with the no tresspassing signs indicated by the guide and on this website.
We saw a good amount of chalk on some lines that are clearly south of 20th century fox, no signs indicatng to not tresspass, and a sign actually indicating climbing is permitted at the most southern point by the pond... but I don't want to step on any toes.
Has access lightened up here? Can anyone point me to the locals that were involved in the access issues a decade ago so I can check on any recent progress? Should I just contact the Ragged Mountain Foundation? Any info is appreciated, and feel free to PM me. Thanks.
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cnizzle516
Apr 13, 2011, 4:50 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
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Current access is still limited. If you park at the southern end of the pond (on the side of the road, you'll see the pull off spot) and hike up to the cliffs past the sign (where it says "Climb at your own risk" and such) and keep following the cliffs you'll eventually see a sign kind of high up on a tree. Last visit the sign wasn't in the best of shape, but it's one of those things where if you know the access issue and see it you'll think "Huh, that must be where the climbing ends."
On a busy weekend you'll see people TRed at the last line before the property starts, and that's basically it.
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ClimbSoHigh
Apr 19, 2011, 2:19 PM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 208
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Thanks for the update, next time I head there I will keep an eye out for the sign and make sure to stay within the open climbs. Reading your post, it is a little unclear if the sign is at the base of the cliff, or on top. Please let me know, or I can just walk the top then bottom of the cliff looking for a beat up sign high in a tree.
It is really a shame that access is an issue here, I was really impressed at the quality of some of the lines, and that so many lines looked safely leadable.
I'll aslo try to get that stopper stuck on the 5.8, looks like many have tried, but I'll get that sucker. It is wronng that there could be a booty piece, reachable from the ground like that.
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cnizzle516
May 8, 2011, 11:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
Posts: 4
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Rumor has it that there's a nice new bouldering spot somewhere kind of near Orenaug in Southbury... I think it was called the Southbury Matrix? Anyone heard anything about it? It was mentioned to me a little while ago and I have yet to hear any other scuttlebutt on the subject...
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praxiscor1
May 20, 2011, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2008
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We live in Woodbury, and climb orenaug every week for the last 4 years. I checked with the town and the deal is the adjacent property owners actually own right up to the face of the cliffs, but they do NOT own the cliffs themselves. Technically speaking you could anchor above and rappel down 95% of the way. But as everyone else has mentioned there is a sign (on the lower section, next to the pond) that clearly shows the climbing limit. This past weekend 5/11/11 the homeowner actually came outside and chatted with me all nice and friendly. So apparently things have calmed down, I would like ot keep it that way. As an FYI, you can park behind the Town Library /Police Station and hike in from the north, the cliffs are much larger, and mostly untouched (no easy walking paths). We have climbed back there plenty of times, but the south side is definitely easier to get to. Anyone know what the ratings are on some of the climbs?
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JokerRick
Jul 9, 2011, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2010
Posts: 19
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I was just out at Orenaug today to check it out with my sons (they're 8 and 10). We ended up parking at the pond and looking at the south cliff, which looked great for them to top-rope. We didn't get far north because the bugs were insane, but it looks good if we bring something better than the "all natural" repellant my wife bought.
I have the Falcon Guide "Rock Climbing Connecticut," which I picked up at EMS in Danbury. It's got a few pages on Orenaug in it and a simple map documenting 6 routes on the north end (a 5.4, a 5.6, two 5.8, and two 5.9). The book is from 2002 and mentions access issues that the RMF is working on. I guess they'd be the ones to contact for updates.
PS -- I live in Newtown, but my only climbing partner is in Toronto. I'd love to meet some locals.
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