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enigma
Apr 28, 2003, 3:24 AM
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--So what's your most recent or memorable???
Mine is the "Flake" in J.Tree, somehow its graded a 5.8, with ardous chimney moves up about 20feet, or stemming moves if your legs are extra long. :twisted:
( In contrast the "Flue" also a 5.8 in J.Tree, by comparison, has one or two technical moves,.) :roll:
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petsfed
Apr 28, 2003, 3:33 AM
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"Jake's Variation" as the third pitch to Walt's Wall at Vedauwoo. Supposedly 5.5, but in comparison to every other 5.5 I've ever climbed, I have to disagree. Everytime I start up this thing, I keep telling myself I'll do it clean and free. Then I grab the bolt and go.
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northerntouch
Apr 28, 2003, 3:33 AM
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The "Southeast Ridge" rated 5.6 on the Headstone rock (also in Jtree) I found heavily sandbagged. It could be the exposure, but the climb is heavily run-out at the top, and if you fall clipping the first bolt there's a chance that you (and probably your catch) will take a huge fall. I guess that none of these factors actually affect the grade, but the climbing seemed much harder than a 5.6. There is a easier 5.8 (Cryptic) right beside it.
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renobdarb
Apr 28, 2003, 3:47 AM
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"Critical View" is a climb that frustrates many of the intermediate climbers in my area... it's rated a 5.8, but it has a strong 5.10 start involving probably the first two moves... there's a huge bulge about belly-high at the start, and it's friggin' impossible for even a tall person (i'm 6'1) to use for the first move (too low for hands, too high for feet)... I've walked by this climb and found rocks piled up at the base and, another time, a large log propped against the bottom where frustrated climbers have cheated to get past this first move and get to the big 'ol bulge... what's even more interesting is that this route actually gets HARDER every year because of erosion at the very bottom from runoff in the spring; from what i hear the large bulge used to be only about two feet off the ground, and now it's at least four... it's a killer climb, and i get a kick out of what people will do when they get pissed off enough... :x
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jono
Apr 28, 2003, 4:18 AM
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me and my partner started on this 5.8 that looked nice, he couldnt do it! i barely did. that was just supposed to be a warm up too. then we went and did 5.9s and 10s. wierd.
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extrememountaineer
Apr 28, 2003, 4:23 AM
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If Moby Dick Center is only 10a than I am the world's greatest climber. :)
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pbjosh
Apr 28, 2003, 4:40 AM
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I hear that Moby Dick Center, Chingando, Sacherer Cracker, Crack of Doom, etc, are all 5.9, heh heh heh
josh
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extrememountaineer
Apr 28, 2003, 4:56 AM
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You are a funny man pb...
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calpolyclimber
Apr 28, 2003, 5:03 AM
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I think Double Cross (on Old Woman in J-tree) is a sandbag for sure. Its rated 5.7 (I guess they gave it a + now). It seems harder than that to me...
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roseraie
Apr 28, 2003, 5:09 AM
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My first time ever climbing cracks was at Mt. Woodson and our leader set up a toprope on an unnamed "5.7 handcrack" for my roommate and I to try. Now, a) only Bigfoot could have used that thing as a handcrack and b) if that was a 5.7 then all those other 5.7s we climbed that day were horrendously featherbagged. All in all, an interesting experience. I torso-jammed the thing, and the 35-foot climb took my roommate almost an hour. But it was fun. :)
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valygrl
Apr 28, 2003, 5:34 AM
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Hey pbjosh, don't forget Ahab....
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michaelmcguinn
Apr 28, 2003, 5:44 AM
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Double Cross is the quintessential 5.7.
MM
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fritzski
Apr 28, 2003, 5:52 AM
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First pitch on the Long Lead, Bark Canyon Wall, Superstition Mtns, AZ. Rated 5.7 - my AS*!!
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atg200
Apr 28, 2003, 7:59 AM
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Double Cross is a nice 5.6 handcrack with two 5.7 moves to get into it. no big deal. Overhang Bypass is a thousand times harder.
Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest at 5.9 A0 is the biggest sandbag I can think of. If the offwidth pitch on Kor-Ingalls on Castleton is a 5.9, HC is a solid 5.10+
You are right about critical view brad(i first did it when the block was 2' off the ground), but remember that the first 10 feet never counts. If it did, most everything at Vedauwoo would be two ratings harder as well.
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climbsomething
Apr 28, 2003, 8:24 AM
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In reply to: First pitch on the Long Lead, Bark Canyon Wall, Superstition Mtns, AZ. Rated 5.7 - my AS*!!
In addition to the letter grades, plusses/minuses, and runout danger ratings of R and X, there should be a designation known as "my ASS!"
Examples:
Last Lonely Eagle, 5.10c-my ASS!
(also, "Orange route by the water fountain, 5.8-my ASS" could be used informally)
This rating could also apply to the super-soft ratings, as long as you're not in denial of the fluff ;)
8)
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vegastradguy
Apr 28, 2003, 6:35 PM
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my partners and i did this beautiful climb a month or two ago, rated at 5.8. i struggled up the first pitch (5.7) and my parnter was sketching through the second pitch (5.8). The whole climb turned out to be like that, the worst being a pitch of 'some 4th class and easy 5th class', which, in the new guide book is rated at 5.9!!!!! :shock:
they actually upgraded every pitch by at least 1 grade, and the climb goes 5.9+ now. woo!
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climblouisiana
Apr 28, 2003, 6:44 PM
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Fritzki, Long Lead is actually 5.8. Still a sandbag if you turn the chockstone on the right at the last pitch.
I thought the last pitch of Grandfather Hobgoblin in the Superstitions may have been slightlly sandbagged at 5.9+.
5.9 plus what?
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climber1
Apr 28, 2003, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: The "Southeast Ridge" rated 5.6 on the Headstone rock (also in Jtree) I found heavily sandbagged. It could be the exposure, but the climb is heavily run-out at the top, and if you fall clipping the first bolt there's a chance that you (and probably your catch) will take a huge fall. I guess that none of these factors actually affect the grade, but the climbing seemed much harder than a 5.6. There is a easier 5.8 (Cryptic) right beside it.
it's the SW arete on Headstone. a classic Josh route. it's just an exposed 5.6. the crux is turning the corner. your belayer won't take a whipper if she/he is anchored.
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climber1
Apr 28, 2003, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest at 5.9 A0 is the biggest sandbag I can think of. If the offwidth pitch on Kor-Ingalls on Castleton is a 5.9, HC is a solid 5.10+
actually, the crux pitch on the Kor-Ingalls is 5.9+. I thought that was valid.
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davidji
Apr 28, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Doggie Do, 5.10a at Camp 4 Wall. Not only is it a heinously hard 5.10a, but it's not a whole lotta fun. I think Russ Walling described it as feeling like 5.15e.
David
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enigma
Apr 28, 2003, 10:57 PM
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In reply to: Doggie Do, 5.10a at Camp 4 Wall. Not only is it a heinously hard 5.10a, but it's not a whole lotta fun. I think Russ Walling described it as feeling like 5.15e. David
Hmmn, a 5.15e???? why???chimmey's or what??? may be out that way soon, any beta??? :?:
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pbjosh
Apr 28, 2003, 11:04 PM
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Valygrl,
Nah, I hear Ahab is more like 5.8, 5.7+ if you wear sneakers instead of climbing shoes, ;)
josh
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bighigaz
Apr 28, 2003, 11:23 PM
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The PBC, this year. Ouch. I felt like a wuss! But sand bag climbs are good for the soul!!! :D
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davidji
Apr 28, 2003, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: Hmmn, a 5.15e???? why???chimmey's or what??? may be out that way soon, any beta??? :?:
If you were going to Camp 4 Wall, the flake variation of Doggie Deviations is a blast. A pitch or so above that there's a really fun chimney too.
Here are Russ's comments
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hellbent
Apr 28, 2003, 11:44 PM
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Dragons Back 5.9My Ass (Mt. lemmon). I couldnt get off the ledge where we start from. Clipped the first bolt, took a crevace plunge and yanked my belayer after me. Looked stupid just hanging there.
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