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gekko
Mar 1, 2003, 9:13 AM
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I've heard about the water trick; however what I heard was that you should get them wet but never completely submerge them, then wear them until the leather dries. As leather dries it shrinks, and hence the shoe is supposed to loosen when wet and then shrink to your foot.
I wore mine in the shower :lol:
I'm not giving this as advice, really I couldn't say if it worked or not unless I bought two pairs of the same shoe and wet one down and not the other. I only tried it one time, with my first pair, never felt the need again.
When I shoe shop I hardly even look at sizes, I get something just barely more than tight, and it loosens up to really nicely snug in about a month. My climbing shoes sizes range about 3 full sizes depending on who makes them, so you never know until you try them on.
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apollodorus
Mar 1, 2003, 9:41 AM
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"Shoe Size" is rather a wide range, especially when you're dealing with European makers.
To Wit:
I bought a pair of Italian-made Scarpa Freney boots that were supposed to be 10.5 American (according to their chart) that fit perfectly for my 9.5 feet. I bought them on eBay from a 10.5 guy who found them too small. They fit so perfect, it's unbelievable.
But, my Lange ski boots, also made in Italy, are perfect for my feet, and they're 9.5.
So, the size listed is basically a guess, or a place to start from.
Climbing shoes need to be snug, not tight. And fit them at the end of the day after walking around, when your feet are longest.
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misha
Mar 1, 2003, 5:55 PM
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i got a great deal on anasazi's. pretty soon i outgrew them and simply put hot water in, and they now fit like a glove. You're shoes are probably not as painful as you think. Most new climbers will try on a slightly large shoe and remark how tight it is.
I like to have my shoes so tight that i can barely walk in them.
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sid_rock
Mar 1, 2003, 10:57 PM
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In reply to: i got a great deal on anasazi's. pretty soon i outgrew them and simply put hot water in, and they now fit like a glove. You're shoes are probably not as painful as you think. Most new climbers will try on a slightly large shoe and remark how tight it is. I like to have my shoes so tight that i can barely walk in them.
That's it, I'm done sitting on the couch wearing my new shoes trying to break them in. They don't seem to be stretching much, and it feels like I have a freakin' elephant standing on my curled-in toes. I'm dipping them boys in hot water tonight, then I'll walk around the house in them. That'll show them who's boss. And if that doesn't loosen them up, I'm getting another pair and saving these for later--when I'm a better climber. If the pain from the shoes is so great that bearing it becomes the primary focus of the climb, I fail to see how it would be helping a beginner like me.
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blackboard
Mar 2, 2003, 7:53 AM
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Are the shoes unlined? If they are lined, they won't give much.
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mattiem
Mar 2, 2003, 9:15 AM
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I have to disagree with just about everybody. I got my first shoes i had heard the rumors about wearing shoes very tight and uncomfortable. The sales person talked me into a more comfy shoe. At first this was great they were very snug but if i went down another half size the were painful. She told me to et the smallest size that wasn't painful. After less then a month my feet got used tothe shoes an the shoes stretched and next thing you knowi needed to buy another pair. So i bought 2 pairs of shoes when i could have bought my first pair tight sucked it up for a few weeks and saved 150 dollars. And you dont need to be a super clibmer to benifit from the power you get from tight fitting shoes. Even if you are climbing 8s or 9s that overhang you can get much better footing with some tight and powerful shoes to pull down. My shoes now are tiiiiiiiight and thats the way the should be. If you have the cash sure spring for a mildly tight pair until you get used to it then buy new shoes but i would save the 150 bucks get tight shoes and suck it up
peas
matt
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misha
Mar 2, 2003, 4:15 PM
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one book i read suggests turning the shoe over and laying it on the ground. then hammering the midsole, this will cause it to break in much faster.
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sid_rock
Mar 2, 2003, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: Are the shoes unlined? If they are lined, they won't give much.
They are unlined, so hopefully they will stretch. I opted out of the hot water treatment at the last minute, choosing instead to watch the Jones-Ruiz fight :P I've decided I will give these guys a couple of more days on the rock. If they're still killing me, I'll do something about it.
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dencio
Mar 3, 2003, 5:07 AM
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I never knew that Merrell made climbing shoes???!!!!!!!!
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
:? :? :? :?
:?: :?: :?: :?:
How are they and more importantly how much are they?
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tori
Mar 3, 2003, 5:28 AM
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what about taking them back? my first shoes were too big and the guys at climbaxe were happy to let me exchange for a smaller size. i barely used them once and they looked fine, before you boil look into this, if the next size up in this brand is too big than change brands.
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sid_rock
Mar 3, 2003, 5:37 AM
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In reply to: I never knew that Merrell made climbing shoes???!!!!!!!! How are they and more importantly how much are they?
You know what, after I bought the shoes I got on the web to find reviews for them, and I could not find a single reference to these shoes anywhere, including (disturbingly) on Merrell's website. They cost $140 (Canadian). Since these are my first shoes, I cannot really comment on how they are, other than they are really, really tight, even though I bought them the same size as my street shoes (44). Give me a few weeks and I'll let you know :)
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climbingjac
Mar 4, 2003, 2:32 AM
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You can try putting the shoes on your feet, and soaking them in warm water (a little warmer than luke warm, but not much. And no soap!). This will stretch the shoes as much as they're going to stretch, though at the expense of a bit of the rubber sole. Otherwise, may I remind you that you climb for pleasure... and how can you be enjoying yourself when you are in pain? If the warm water doesn't work, cut your losses. Sell the shoes and get some that fit better.
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illimaniman
Mar 6, 2003, 6:49 PM
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In reply to: And the guy at REI was just trying to make a sale by telling you what you wanted to hear. It's a great sales tactic - they don't care whether the shoe really fits you or not, they care whether you buy it or not.
Actually, REI salespeople are paid hourly, and receive no commission. So I don't think they give a rip what you buy. The whole purpose of that pay structure is so they give you honest advice rather than a sales pitch.
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hammer_
Mar 6, 2003, 7:09 PM
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Climbing with shoes that are two sizes to small is fine if your into boulder probs or gym climbing but if you want to enjoy yourself on a multipitch route go for comfort first.
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nickb
Mar 6, 2003, 7:47 PM
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Our house hold has nine pairs of rock shoes now and through my climbing life I have owned at least twenty pairs. If your shoes are lined not much stretching will occur. If your shoes are unlined you can accelerate the break in period by taking a handfull of warm water and rubbing it into the leather from the inside then lacing them up tight and climbing in them until the pain becomes too much to bare. Take a break from your shoes, then lace those bad boys up tight again. The next time you wear them they will be better. If they are still not where you want them repeat the procedure. Do not dunk your shoes in water. I have done this procedure several times and it works for me. Comfy shoes = easy for you routes and long days. Tight shoes for routes near your limit.
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nickb
Mar 6, 2003, 7:49 PM
Post #41 of 60
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Our house hold has nine pairs of rock shoes now and through my climbing life I have owned at least twenty pairs. If your shoes are lined not much stretching will occur. If your shoes are unlined you can accelerate the break in period by taking a handfull of warm water and rubbing it into the leather from the inside then lacing them up tight and climbing in them until the pain becomes too much to bare. Take a break from your shoes, then lace those bad boys up tight again. The next time you wear them they will be better. If they are still not where you want them repeat the procedure. Do not dunk your shoes in water. I have done this procedure several times and it works for me. Comfy shoes = easy for you routes and long days. Tight shoes for routes near your limit.
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da5id
Mar 7, 2003, 4:12 AM
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i had a sorta exact opposite problem. everyone at the gym i go to was sayin stuff like "don't feel like you have to buy really small shoes for your first pair" and stuff. i ended up with a prett good fit for a beginner shoe anyway, La Sportive cliffs i think, somethin like that.
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sid_rock
Mar 7, 2003, 4:44 AM
Post #43 of 60
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In reply to: i had a sorta exact opposite problem. everyone at the gym i go to was sayin stuff like "don't feel like you have to buy really small shoes for your first pair" and stuff. i ended up with a prett good fit for a beginner shoe anyway, La Sportive cliffs i think, somethin like that.
The people in your gym are smart; I wish the guy who sold me the shoe had the same kind of common sense. Even after dipping my shoes in hot water and wearing them around the house, I returned with bloody toes after climbing today. I'm going to have to get a new pair of shoes, and this time I'm going for comfort.
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updude
Mar 9, 2003, 8:06 AM
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Sid, I just bought my first pair of shoes as well. LaSportiva Cobras. I normally wear a 10.5, and these are a 42. I found that wearing them for short periods of time, like when i'm watching tv, or on the computer were great for the breaking in, but i took them off as soon as they began to hurt. Also, I would take them off as soon as I got off the wall. But, for about the first 4 or 5 times i climbed in them, my feet hurt like no other. They stretshed not in overall size, but to fit the shape of my feet, I'm sure that yours will do the same, good luck.
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bergo
Apr 30, 2003, 11:49 PM
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My first pair of shoes where 1 size smaller than my street shoes. It was eally painfull!! What I did was wearing socks until my feet were calloused. Now I use the same 1 size smaller climbing shoes and no socks. Tight but not unconfy... BTW, I've read this before buying my 1st pair:
"Two important things about rock climbing shoes:
1) It's not about fashion. Climbing shoes are notoriously ugly. It seems to be an essential part of their design. Buy a pair of shoes because of how they look, and you will get laughed out of the climbing gym, so don't even try. The uglier, the better.
2) It's not about comfort. In order to best support your climbing, shoes should literally be like a second skin. Beginners' shoes let you breathe, experts' shoes make you bleed. It's not the shoe that differs, it's the fit. You should have zero room at the tip of your toe, and when you stand you should feel your toe pushing into the tip of the shoe (when you sit they should be a little easier to bear). Also don't wear socks when you're trying them on, remember these are your second skin so people typically don't wear socks with their climbing shoes. When you do go climbing, bring an extra pair of flip-flops or other shoes that are easy to slip on -- this is what you change into when you're belaying or otherwise goofing around. The shoes aren't intended to be comfortable enough to walk/lounge around in."
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danielb
May 1, 2003, 8:57 AM
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Don't use very hot water or you might dissolve the glue that holds the various pieces of the rubber sole together, it happened to me :(
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corpse
May 1, 2003, 12:27 PM
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I'm only posting to be a post whore :)
For the 1st 6-9 months I wore a 10 or 10.5 (depending if I wore socks, which I usually did), and 10.5 is my normal street shoe. After the 6 months or my feet got used to the shape and stuff and my footwork was improving pretty well and I wanted to use smaller footings.. So then came the 9.5's (also rental shoes).. The rentals are 5 10's; I just bought a pair of Mythos which are 8.5 and feel WAY nice.. VERY snug but perfectly formed for my foot, so although real thight they are not painful; except maybe when I'm using a little nub to stand on off my toe or somethnig.. I haven't tried crack climbing in this size with these shoes, but I'll find out soon :)
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neadamthal
May 1, 2003, 12:45 PM
Post #48 of 60
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dutchman, where did you read that the guy told him 'experts' wear two sizes smaller?
but the water thing does work. but it takes a few tries to get any significant stretching.
i wear a full size smaller than my street shoes. but it takes a while to stretch them out to the comfort zone...
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bmoscon
May 1, 2003, 1:18 PM
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the shoes should be tight but not painful, get another size
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lb4123
Nov 21, 2004, 3:33 AM
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my shoes are tight on me, but i like it. its only bothered my once. on a two day climbing trip that i climbed for 20 hours. by the end of the second day, i could barely stand putting them on. but its worth it to have tight shoes. i normally go bouldering for a couple of hours at a time and it works well. like what was mentioned earlier, try cutting your toe nails. i own mad rock flashes size 10. street size is between 10-11, depending on the shoe.
do whatever works for you though
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