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'American' Aid
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yotrepo


May 1, 2003, 11:11 PM
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'American' Aid
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I live in Japan and the guidebook for my area mentions "American Aid" several times (the book is written in Japanese, which I can barely read, at least the topos are decent)...what is this? Do they mean clean-aid possibly? Normal Aid? Destroying countries and then not giving any money to rebuild them? ...I don't Aid climb, but it mentions some of the free routes I want to try are old 'American Aid' climbs. The book does not have gear recomendations and is VERY slanted toward sport climbing, oh well :(


onelung


May 1, 2003, 11:54 PM
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What is it written in Kanji? Can you send me a copy? I'll tell You what it says. Doko imasu ka? I got friends around allot of Nippon. I have climbed with a couple Japanese and we seemed to have the same idea of aid.
Thats pretty interesting.

Ja- Ne,
Bill


epic_ed


May 1, 2003, 11:55 PM
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It probably means the route was originally established as an aid route and at least some sections require use of non-clean aid climbing gear; possibly pitons, heads, hooks, etc. Or it may mean the US cleaned the route of all choss, developed the trails to the crag, and supplied the anchors and bolts for the route, but were then villified because they were imposing their type of climbing in the area. Despite their hand-wringing and protests, the locals climbed in the area anyway and decided they like the routes and proceeded to develope the rest of the crag and other crags in the area the same way. The same locals them became pissed at the US for not continuing to subsidize their bolt, hanger, and drill supply and demanded compensation.

Regardless, I wouldn't count on being able to climb it as a sport route.

Ed


apollodorus


May 2, 2003, 12:11 AM
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I live in Japan. Destroying countries and then not giving any money to rebuild them?

JFTR, Japan received a tremendous amount of U.S. aid after WWII to rebuild their economy. Unlike other WWII winners, we didn't go in and take over the vanquished nations. In fact, every country that has ever gone to war with the U.S. has received aid from us, without our taking over. We are technically still at war with North Korea, but we still provide money and aid to them. The United States is the #1 provider of money and aid to countries around the world.


As for the original question about "American Aid Climbing", that probably means the type of aid climbing that was perfected in Yosemite Valley, i.e., using aiders. The European method was earlier, and similar, but not as efficient. Euro aiders, before about 1970, often had metal steps. It might also mean the use of heads and rivets, another Valley innovation (or at least widespread use of).


yotrepo


May 2, 2003, 12:14 AM
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yamanashi ni imasu! I've been here for about 2 years on the JET program. I was lucky to end up in a place with so much rock. 'American Aid' is written in katakana. Specifically, the route I am looking at is on Izu Peninsula at a place called Umikongo. It is a seaside cliff (probably a choss pile... we'll see). I don't have the guide with me, but I might be able to send it to you. I'm gonna give it a go this weekend (leaving in 3 hours, 30 minutes and 42 seconds... ira ira shitteiru...). The guide has it at 8 pitches 5.7 to 5.9, but mentions the crag as mostly American Aid. I bought a few arrows and angles yesterday, but I'm gonna try to do it clean. I'll let you know how it goes...


onelung


May 2, 2003, 12:22 AM
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Ganbate,
Katakana ...cool...being much easier to read, I am interested to read it so when you got time, I can PM you a Jn fax or USA fax or if you can scan you can reach me here.

Not familiar with the JET but if you end up in a county like Nippon, Bravo.
I lived there almost 3 years and loved evey day.

Ashita,
Bill


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