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simzboardr
May 6, 2003, 3:13 AM
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Does anyone know of any good C1 routes at the Gunks
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tim
May 6, 2003, 3:33 AM
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I'm pretty sure Twilight Zone is C1, maybe C2 with the crappy nuts in the roof. Scott Griz put up a trip report about it a while back -- Google will probably be able to find it for you (yes, I'm lazy).
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danskiz
May 6, 2003, 5:02 AM
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There are many routes that you can aid in the gunks. The 3 most popular (in order of difficulty) are kansas city, twilight zone, and spinal traction. Kansas city is as easy as it gets, but gets you introduced to aiding under a roof. Twilight Zone takes you to the next step with some reachy placements (mostly fixed pins), big rope drag if your not careful, and one of the coolest hanging belays in the gunks. Spinal traction is a nice introduction to very small gear. There are many others that can be aided, most at C1. Check out Scott Ghiz's website http://ghiz.org/gunksaid.shtml
He has a aid guide he put together for the gunks.
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simzboardr
May 6, 2003, 5:54 PM
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thanks...that site rocked...anyone gonna be up there this weekend 5/9?
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drkodos
May 6, 2003, 6:08 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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Sorry bro, that Aid site is a joke.
Talking as if they did the first aid ascent of Ant's Line in 1997?
Aid these routes at the Gunks at your own peril. They are Classic 3 Star Free Climbs. Tiying up Bonnie's Roof 5.8+ on a saturday in an attempt to learn 5.4 C1 Aid is being a rectal pore and nothing else.
Stick to the real aid routes. There are many that aren't in the guide book. Walk into Rock & Snow and talk to Mr Rich Gottlieb. There are Dozens of legitimate aid routes to do. They just don't all share the conveinience of being in the Trapps or Near Trapps.
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simzboardr
May 6, 2003, 6:16 PM
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I started to wonder that... I love aiding but trad too. I really couldn't tie up a classic all day just to learn some stuff. The traps would be nice but maybe some not so classic routes. Any suggestions.
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atg200
May 6, 2003, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Wow, you sure told everyone.
The site is not claiming to be a bunch of first ascents. Had Ant's Line ever been specifically aided without pins before? Who knows? Is it a good practice route? Depends - take a look at the date Adrian did it. Chances are in November and December when many of these were done, the place was covered with snow and deserted. For instance, the day that I aided Rhododendron before submitting it to that site, it snowed about 5 inches and I had a pretty good/miserable adventure rope soloing it and saw a grand total of two cross country skiers all day. Would I aid it on a nice day? Obviously not.
I've talked in passing to Rich about aid in the Gunks before, and he didn't offer up much beta. Perhaps you have to know about it to be able to ask? Donald Perry's super contrived aid routes using 40 foot cheater sticks don't count.
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atg200
May 6, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Do Kansas City and Twilight Zone - nobody will likely be on either.
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drkodos
May 6, 2003, 6:32 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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Agreement on Mr. Perry.
If my tone is too harsh, so be it. Encouraging people to Aid long held classic free climbs rubs me the wrong way, ok?
Props to you for aiding Rhodendron in the cold when most New Paltzian are either hiding or out ice climbing.
However, the poster stated they were going THIS WEEKEND. Free to do as they choose, I just think they may run into some resistance if they spend 60 minutes aiding up something as popular as Ant's line.
As for my rant on that bogus site: I didn't say it was claiming first ascents, I stated that the site was set up in such a way that it appeared to be the case.
As for Ant's Line; I know I did aid it (nuts only) back in 1978. I am positive it was done MANY times before that. Why encourage people to aid climb these particular climbs? There is plenty of legitimate aid to do.
Check out Bounticou, Outback Slabs, Ravitch Rock, Peterskill, et al...
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atg200
May 6, 2003, 6:39 PM
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One would hope anyone intelligent enough to aid climb would be smart enough to stay off Ant's on a nice day. Fair game if its raining though, even this weekend. Straightforward splitter cracks in the Gunks are enough of a rarity that I don't see much problem with people wanting to aid them when the weather is awful. They should definitely be kicked in the balls if they nail though.
What sort of legit aid is there at Bonticou, etc. I've climbed at a fair number of the cliffs not in the guidebook, and never really noticed anything that jumped out as being any more legit for aid(aside from it being less crowded). Are they clean? Free climb where aid is ok, or just not freed yet? I'm just curious because I lived out there for 5 years, did a lot of aid climbing, and never really heard anything about it.
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drkodos
May 6, 2003, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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I put up a route or Two at Bounticou back in the day with a fellow named Tom Rust. Chopping Block 5.8 C2 & The Guillotine 5.7 C2. Both are way off right from the Sun Wall.
I'd be more than happy to show them off!
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