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climbingcowboy
May 7, 2003, 2:27 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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When your waiting for a route say your the second or third party do you fix your lines as well, and just wait until your turn to go when the party is far enough ahead?
How many partys fix there lines at one time?
Can you fix to the anchor also, or do you set up a belay to jug to?
Thanks guys.
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apollodorus
May 7, 2003, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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The short answer is it depends on the route. People doing the Nose usually fix to Sickle Ledge, and the ropes are way to the right of the route and don't interfere with other parties. Similarly, the Salathe is generally fixed to Heart Ledge, and the ropes don't interfere with other parties. If you fix on the NA wall, the ropes go right down the route, and would get in the way of other people.
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lambone
May 7, 2003, 7:13 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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I'd try to talk with the party ahead of you. Sometimes people will fix and then hang out in Camp 4 milling around for a few days. If thats the case see if you can pass through. Otherwise, yeah, you give them a good days lead and start the next morning. You'll find out quick how fast they are moving. No need to start out right on their heels, that's no fun for either party.
If a team has their gear fixed to an anchor, the nice thng to do would be to ask them if you can share the anchor with them. Keep all your gear seperate, and make sure they can clean their anchor set-up with no trouble. Some people will have no problem with this, others will be annoyed.
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iamthewallress
May 7, 2003, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Sounds like you've got the right attitude, cowboy: considerate! I don't really mind shoving a fixed line out of the way too much, but I do mind having the leader and haulbag from the party below arriving at my belay every single pitch. :twisted:
Once I moved the bottom of a guys lines (to a perfectly fine tree 3 feet away) since he had fixed it through the bottom 3 fixed pieces of gear on a pitch, and I couldn't leave the ground without clipping into them. Some of these considerations are obvious if you think beyond yourself.
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climbingcowboy
May 8, 2003, 2:38 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Thanks
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