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beyond_gravity
Jan 2, 2002, 4:28 AM
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Has anyone acculey used a firgure 4 for rock climbing?
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kriso9tails
Jan 2, 2002, 4:39 AM
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I've done it, but I wouldn't really say that I've "used" it. I'm not that good at them, but I am good a dynoing around intended fig. 4s.
I'm sure it has great uses, but I always end up eating my knees, and as good as they taste it's just not for me.
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dustinap
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Jan 2, 2002, 5:11 AM
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this is where you match your foot and your arm and it looks like a #4 right?
if so I use them pretty frequently.
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compclimber
Jan 2, 2002, 7:40 AM
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Figure fours only work in a few cases. I would much rather dyno, figure fouring is something for mixed and ice climbing. You need that precision in ice and mixed to place your tools, but in climbing most of the time you can just dyno. Figure fouring is something that kinda went out of style when people really started to concieve the possibillity of dynoing. I'm all over a figure four if it is needed, but most of the time I can dyno and not use as much strength to do it. And unless your a really strong person then you'll be doing your figure fours off of pretty large holds. These holds are much easier to dyno then they are to figure four, hell half the time its easier to campus them than figure four
Bottom line: Figure fours are good when it is the only technique possible to gain upward movement. But most of the time you can do something else to get around them.
Anyways, were Americans...leave the figure fours to the Frenchies.
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compclimber
Jan 2, 2002, 7:45 AM
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And dustinap, what you are descibing does not sound like a figure four. A figure four is when you take a leg and put it around your opposite arm, then pull down with that leg to lock off your arm.
Read the terms page as well, it has a description of the figure four.
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vaness
Jan 5, 2002, 9:39 PM
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does anyone really use figure 4? i mean what does it help when your climbing? i dont get it...i know how to do it and everything but what does it help?
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climber_girl
Jan 5, 2002, 10:02 PM
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i think what he meant was the move called the hand foot match. i personally don;t use it very much but there is one problem in the gym that if i dyno, the holds are too low and its pretty far. The hand foot match works perfect for it.
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airscape
Jan 5, 2002, 10:07 PM
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I've tried it a couple of times in the gym, I even set up a route there, that is MUCCCCCH easier to use it than to dyno, the grip you reach for is too small and too far to the side to dyno for, from that angle.
Never used it on rock though, have never encountered a prob where I have needed to use it.
But i must admit, it's a really awesome poser move.
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gooch
Jan 17, 2002, 7:08 PM
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I thought a figure four was best used when you were hanging on a roof and hook your leg over your arm, allowing you to hang by one arm and one leg?
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sidepull
Jan 17, 2002, 9:17 PM
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There's an excellent photographic essay in Dale Goddard and Udo Newman's book "Performance Rock Climbing" that analyzes the sequences used in final World Cup route when Francios Legrand edged out Yuji Huriyama. The point of the essay is that the most efficient climber wins. Francios pulls a crucial figure four in the roof sequence. In this instance the move pulls his body to the wall decreasing the amount of strength needed to lock-off. I think it's a good move to have in your repertoire, but most of us aren't competing in onsight competitions with 5.13 routes.
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gekolimit
Jan 24, 2002, 3:49 AM
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I love the figure of 4. This is where technique overpowers anyone's strength. I find it usefull when bumbed out as it requires more abdominal muscles than arms.
Jus make sure that you put your one leg well over the hand thats on the grip, so all you need to do is shift your weight up by pushing with the dangeling leg against the wall. ITs as if your trying to sit up straight. I love it..
However I would never do it on a natural climb.
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