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climbingcowboy


May 7, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Bailing
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Ok this probably sounds stupid for you guys with experiance but when you HAVE to bail on an overhanging route or one with a roof you climbed out how do you get back to the anchors below to rap again??

Do you have to down aid those pitches?

(i know that it would be perferred to just suck it up and keep going in these situations like Russ' post on the nose topic)


epic_ed


May 7, 2003, 11:43 PM
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If it's a planned retreat or you anticipate you may have to bail, you'd leave one rope tied to the anchor below the roof. Rap the line and pull yourself in; probably involves some jugging back up to the lower anchor point.

If unplanned and you've pulled ropes from the anchor below the roof (or maybe you're a few pitches past it), you would have to down-aid the roof. Or, it's a really nice time to have a cheater stick along to get you back to that anchor:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=12414

Ed


climbingcowboy


May 7, 2003, 11:45 PM
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right on :lol: you bringing that with you in june?


epic_ed


May 7, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Hell yes. Mine is for upward progress only. I'd rather have a tainted ascent than a clean bail.

Ed


apollodorus


May 8, 2003, 12:07 AM
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Re: Bailing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If it's a planned retreat or you anticipate you may have to bail, you'd leave one rope tied to the anchor below the roof. Rap the line and pull yourself in; probably involves some jugging back up to the lower anchor point.


Absolutely. Whenever you go up on a Wall, plan to bail. And make sure you leave ropes at each overhang and roof. And make sure you borrow the ropes.

OKAY. That was harsh.

If you have to bail on an overhang, the idea is to rap and pull yourself into the wall as you need to. This is the great thing about a cheater-stick, which works on belay bolts, heads and other fixed gear.

As you rap down, you can also sink gear ("down-aid) to keep close to the wall. The second cleans the pitch. You need to keep the pieces close, or the second won't be able to clean them.


epic_ed


May 8, 2003, 12:21 AM
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OK, Tom. For clarity and speaking from experience...

Leader sh!ts pants leading their first roof, but commits to completing the task. Follower has never cleaned a roof and also sh!ts pants when he/she realizes they have no idea how to unweight first piece of gear. Lots of groveling, crying, and thumb sucking ensues. Decision is made to bail and instead of cutting himself loose from the rope just for the sake of getting it over with, leader is able to have follower tie off rope to the lower anchor and leader raps back down to the belay where they hug, snuggle, and do other un-manly things until they have the where-with-all to slink back down the remainder of the wall to the ground.

Granted, most bails aren't going to happen that way, but I'm just sayin' if the roof kicked your ass, make sure you're both committed to continue the route before the second cuts loose from the anchor. It will save a lot of anxiety.


apollodorus


May 8, 2003, 12:48 AM
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Okay! Okay! Okay!

I did this to solo the Bishop's Terrace roof in the rain:

Led the pitch, then anchored the rope. I Rapped the lead rope, to clean the pitch. Since it was a true Roof Pitch, most of it was down-aiding. At the bottom, I cleaned the lower belay, lowered out, and jugged back up the lead line back to the upper belay. Then, I rapped the doubled lead rope to the Bishop's Balcony. And then to the ground.


Granted, I did not retreat off this pitch, but the ropework is similar. The first guy down would place pieces (down-aid) and get to the next belay. The second would either rap on double ropes to clean it (three ropes on a wall), or down-clean the pitch while belayed by the leader.


climbingcowboy


May 8, 2003, 1:02 AM
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I cant figure out if this would make snse (ok i'm at work and tired) You do the roof and cant do the following pitch so you decide to bail, one person down-aids the roof gets to the belay, ties off the rope with a little slack in it, the second raps that line cleaning on the way down, and pulls the rope.


climbingcowboy


May 8, 2003, 1:06 AM
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never mind the rope would have been fixed so you wouldnt be able to pull it duh!

God I hope I dont have to ever do this it sounds like a pain in the arse


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