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mungeclimber
May 9, 2003, 7:44 PM
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Anyone have info on the rating on Ubermensch in Pinnacles National Monument, California, USA?
It's been indicated to me that Eddie Barry rated it 13d. Is there a source for this by any chance? I'm trying to track down that information and haven't found it yet. Does anyone know if Chris rated it originally, or if Thornburg or someone else expressed the 14a rating originally? (yes, I know currently he doesn't express ratings for climbs, but there is a chance he may not have then when he was younger).
Thanks for your help! Feel free to PM me if you have contact information or maybe even rumored leads that you don't want to post publicly.
Thanks,
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anasazifan
May 9, 2003, 7:54 PM
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I think in the route database it has some information about it. Basically, it says it's 13D in the route database. This probably does not answer your question however.
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mungeclimber
May 9, 2003, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: I think in the route database it has some information about it. Basically, it says it's 13D in the route database. This probably does not answer your question however.
Yah, that's one of the sources indicating 13d. Thanks anyways. But basically I think i need to get in touch with Eddie Barry or Jim Thornburg or those guys that active and around back then.
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extrememountaineer
May 9, 2003, 8:26 PM
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Sharma never rated it...One of the rangers up there told me it was 14a but Berry said it was 13d. I'll try to find out for you. Did you see the video MOS IV? Sharma did the climb for the video when he was 15.
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mungeclimber
May 9, 2003, 9:46 PM
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In reply to: Sharma never rated it...One of the rangers up there told me it was 14a but Berry said it was 13d. I'll try to find out for you. Did you see the video MOS IV? Sharma did the climb for the video when he was 15.
Thanks much!!!
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alvchen
May 9, 2003, 10:20 PM
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In this interview with Sharma: http://w1.522.telia.com/~u52202076/klattring/profiler/sharma.html
It looks like he bolted the route and gave it a 14a rating.
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mungeclimber
May 9, 2003, 10:51 PM
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In reply to: In this interview with Sharma: http://w1.522.telia.com/~u52202076/klattring/profiler/sharma.html It looks like he bolted the route and gave it a 14a rating.
That's a strange site. Since it is believed that ubermensch went in "top down" not by drilling on hooks. That seems to be implied here that he hooked and drilled those.
Thanks much for the article
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extrememountaineer
May 9, 2003, 11:04 PM
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In the video done when Sharma was 15, it said the rating was 13d.
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extrememountaineer
May 9, 2003, 11:17 PM
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This is the info off the Friends of the Pinnacles website:
Ubermench (5.14a)
5x, on arete just left of Lard Butt
FA: Chris Sharma, ~3/96 - 3/96
Talked to a ranger and he said the rating went to 14a after a hold broke. Not sure of the time frame. I was always under the impression that Sharma never rated his routes, so the above article surprised me. maybe it was just his bouldering he never rated. Anybody know for sure?
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alvchen
May 10, 2003, 12:18 AM
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He probably rated his climbs when he was younger, but when he matured he probably stopped.
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mungeclimber
May 12, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Hadn't heard about a hold breaking. I thought it was 14a originally, then rated 13d in the movie. At least that's what I remember from the rags.
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extrememountaineer
May 12, 2003, 6:16 PM
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That could be too, I can't climb it so I'll never know for sure. :lol:
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mungeclimber
May 12, 2003, 10:57 PM
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Yeah, i'm not about to flash that puppy either.
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extrememountaineer
May 13, 2003, 12:04 AM
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I am doing well to drag my lard-butt up the Regular Route on the Monolith, let alone Uber...Ubermench sure is a nice looking line though. I still can't believe I watched my dad free-solo the Regular Route, traverse the ledge to the right, jump out and grab a tree limb, and downclimb the tree, when I was 6 years old. Those old-timers were crazy!
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mungeclimber
May 14, 2003, 7:03 PM
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In reply to: I am doing well to drag my lard-butt up the Regular Route on the Monolith, let alone Uber...Ubermench sure is a nice looking line though. I still can't believe I watched my dad free-solo the Regular Route, traverse the ledge to the right, jump out and grab a tree limb, and downclimb the tree, when I was 6 years old. Those old-timers were crazy!
Word!!! When was this? Who is your dad? PM me if you want. Would love to hear any stories from years past about pinnacles.
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extrememountaineer
May 15, 2003, 1:40 AM
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My dad was Chief ranger at the Pinnacles from 1967-1977. Here is a quote from Chuck Richard's guidebook published in 1974...
The original ascent of Monolith was February 17, 1935 by Dave & Ralph Brower, Bill Van Vorrhis & George Rockwood who clammered up the oak on the corner under the Regular route's belay ledge...then dropped onto the rock and climbed knobs to the ledge...over the pedestal and to the top. No one in recent years has been known to repeat this maneuver. A close variation was achieved by Jim Langford who climbed 3rd class to the ledge and downclimbed the tree to get out.
Pretty funny how, in 1974, the phrase "free-solo" was not even in the vocabulary. It was called "climbing third class".
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mungeclimber
May 15, 2003, 6:30 AM
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excellent, oddly enough i have that guide. right on.
Have you seen the 55 Hammack guide. all of like 15 pages and a whopping .55 cents?
All written descriptions!!! don't find those much anymore
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extrememountaineer
May 16, 2003, 2:19 PM
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Don't have that one, but I have one by Steve Roper published in 1965.
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mungeclimber
May 19, 2003, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: Don't have that one, but I have one by Steve Roper published in 1965.
That's the last one I've been looking for.
Let me know if you find any out and about. I can't imagine you want to part with yours so I won't ask.
Looks like Pinns season is cooked. Time for the Sierras, eh?
Let me know if you ever want to head up to the Sonora Pass Areas.
cheers,
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