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simzboardr
May 11, 2003, 4:02 AM
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I don't think i can make an official poll....but anyways Who thinks were gonna bail this summer on the nose (July) ...i need some really rough comments too...it makes me perform better.. oh yea...anyone climb at the gunks..how to the ratings compare to the valley..
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epic_ed
May 11, 2003, 4:22 AM
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I sincerely hope you succeed...but I think you're gonna bail. Probably not for reasons that are within your control. If sheer stubbornness and persistence are all you need to get to the top, it sounds like you have a good chance. But with as long as you're planning on being on the wall in the middel of July, you're chances of needing to bail because of heat stroke are pretty high. Keep us posted! Ed
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w6jxm
May 11, 2003, 5:02 AM
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Your going to bail all the way back down to PTPP's crab-o-ledge and suddenly realize the better way and finish the climb that afternoon :) Good luck man and don't get too hot out there
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bandycoot
May 11, 2003, 6:42 AM
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You're gonna bail. Bring the sun screen...
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pywiak
May 11, 2003, 1:17 PM
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The effort of hauling water on the first thousand feet of slabs in the blazing sun will leave you roasted, toasted, and wracked with cramps. Be ultra cautious on the way down, because you won't be thinking clearly. If you make it back to the Valley floor, you'll discover you just dropped twenty pounds, but you'll put back twentyfive recovering at Degnan's. You're better off climbing something on the south side of the Valley in July, or heading for the High Country (Tuolumne).
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wallrat
May 11, 2003, 3:48 PM
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I've been watching this thread, and it seems to me that odds are you'll wind up bailing. The reasons will be because your reach at this point exceeds your grasp. All the Big Wall Theory and good intentions in the world can't replace prior experience on something more moderate. I strongly suggest you guys run up the West Face of the Leaning Tower before you try the Nose. If you can do it in two days, you might be ready, plus you'll have climbed the steepest pitches of your life. Do yourself a huge favor...work up to the big routes by paying your dues on the moderates. A lot of guys who've spent months on the stone have given you sound advice, but it seems like you're blowing them off. That's the ultimate in foolishness.
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atg200
May 11, 2003, 4:11 PM
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Another vote for bailing. The ratings at the Gunks and Yosemite don't compare at all. Unless you have climbed straight in cracks, you will get taken to school by Yosemite free climbing. Go practice crack climbing at Cathedral Ledge or in the Daks. If you go to Cathedral and don't have any trouble doing the Prow in a day and you can cruise Recompense, you'll have an ok chance of handling the climbing, but you'll still get worked by the heat.
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passthepitonspete
May 11, 2003, 4:24 PM
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Shut up and climb.
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drkodos
May 11, 2003, 8:00 PM
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Long term climate forecasts for the season look good: Temps should be lower than normal, and precipitation is going to be average. Many people succeed on this and other routes during the summer months. My vote is: SUCCESS! and why not? Talk this early about bailing and bailing will happen. Self fulfilling prophecy rules indicate that all communications should lean toward the positive... Good luck, or better yet....Good Skill....
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mojorisin
May 11, 2003, 9:29 PM
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In reply to: Another vote for bailing. The ratings at the Gunks and Yosemite don't compare at all. Unless you have climbed straight in cracks, you will get taken to school by Yosemite free climbing. Go practice crack climbing at Cathedral Ledge or in the Daks. If you go to Cathedral and don't have any trouble doing the Prow in a day and you can cruise Recompense, you'll have an ok chance of handling the climbing, but you'll still get worked by the heat. Very good advice.
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glockaroo
May 11, 2003, 11:55 PM
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I predict that you'll bail from the Nose, due to a combination of environmental factors and inexperience. If you went and applied the same enthusiasm in the same conditions to the Prow or the Tower, I would predict success.
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ptone
May 12, 2003, 12:31 AM
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Rough comments? :twisted: Come on you snivelling little grommets, what are you thinking? I saw that picture of you aiding 2 feet off the ground with your belay 20 feet back in the 'whats wrong with this picture II' thread a bit ago!!! Hows he going to belay you if he doesn't have a parking lot to back up into? Yosemite granite is going to tear thru your tiddlywink callouses faster than an egg fries on my engine block... That wall is going to spit you off like the green goo in the 'exorcist' :shock: But seriously--what do I know? There are some really apt comments above. Just be careful and safe and I know one thing is for sure... Bail or not, it's probably going to be an amazing climbing experience for you! Listen to your elders, then climb like hell! :D Peace, -p
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coyoteblues
May 12, 2003, 1:36 AM
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(Aw, what the heck, I'll reply to the "poll") You'll bail, you might not even leave the ground. If you do leave the ground it'll be because you dont' want to come back here and admit you didn't leave the ground. :lol: Good friend of mine tells of his first wall "attempt". He and his partner did nothing for months but plan and train for HD regular route. Got to the valley, had one look at those gargantuane walls (from the valley floor) and tucked tail. Decided that maybe they could get up South Face of WC instead. Did hump their loads to the base and up one pitch before the enormity of the task overwhelmed them. They bailed. They had some fun on some shorter free climbs and just enjoyed being there, but no big walls. I only hope that your desire (to top out and/or to prove all of us wrong) exceeds the fear and pain you will experience up there and you just send it anyway. I'll definitely have a good chuckle writing you a note of congrats.
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simzboardr
May 12, 2003, 2:12 AM
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I started looking into the Prow (NH)...sounds fun...lookes like im drivin up to NH in two weeks to climb it. Can't hurt.
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lambone
May 12, 2003, 7:01 PM
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Good idea, do a grade V before even thinking about the Captain. Shorter walls can be just as cool, and are definately more fun to learn on.
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simzboardr
May 12, 2003, 7:11 PM
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i think its grade III
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brutusofwyde
May 12, 2003, 7:13 PM
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I think you'll top out. Especially if you get some climbs in like the prow first. Get a bandanna and duct tape it to the back of your helmet to keep the sun off your neck. Heck, take a parasol. If you have a way to do so. freeze about half your water supply solid. (Don't fill the 2-liter bottles all the way to the brim, and leave the tops off while they freeze) Pack the beer next to the ice. Go for it dude! Think "Up, Up, Up" never down. Brutus
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ambler
May 12, 2003, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: I think you'll top out. Especially if you get some climbs in like the prow first. Brutus The NH Prow, not the CA one, is maybe 350 feet high and C1 if you aid it. It's a long step up from that to El Cap. The Prow isn't a bad place to start, but I'd second all the others who suggested you pick up some Grade IV and V experience (with real hauling, long days, and nights on the wall) along the way. Staying in the Northeast, routes like Mordor Wall or VMC Direct could provide something closer to the big wall experience. It's not the leading that makes people bail off the Nose, it's all that other stuff.
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lambone
May 12, 2003, 9:47 PM
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Yeah, I meant a Yosemite Grade V. Brutus, what is a parasol?
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epic_ed
May 12, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Think "Mary Poppins umbrella". "Mary F'en WHO?"
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peas
May 12, 2003, 10:25 PM
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In reply to: Shut up and climb. OMG! This must be the shortest post from Pete ever. Someone must have hacked his account. :)
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brutusofwyde
May 12, 2003, 10:41 PM
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For sure. If it were the real Pete, the post would have read "Shut up and climb, eh?"
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passthepitonspete
May 12, 2003, 11:54 PM
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Like, take off, eh?
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simzboardr
May 13, 2003, 3:20 AM
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Im thinkin of riggin a big wall umbrella for some shade....sounds like a plan. Anyone know of any other places out here on the East to climb thats bigger then Cathedral Ledge
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