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darkside
May 11, 2003, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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Re-printed in part from the GRIPPED BB.
ACCESS NOTE: Remember last years now 'infamous incident', well a member of the Access Committee recently had a meeting with a National Park staff member and reports there is some good news of sorts. The park is not looking to close climbing here and climbers will be treated no differently than any other user group. What they see as destruction and vandalism of natural resources, plants, or any other park feature will be dealt with in a very harsh manner though. It is reported that the climber charged last year got away very lightly and future infractions will receive fines in excess of $1000.
It is worth noting that the majority of the probs are on the beach where very little leafy type vegetation exists as opposed to back in the forest. By bouldering on the beach, you can help maintain access to this climbing area but if you do stray into the forest, be sure not to disturb any plants, mosses, lichens, or other vegetation. Remember, you may think brushing off that lichen is no big deal but the park wardens do; is it worth losing access for one handhold or getting a $1000 fine?
I would suggest the following guidelines for the area (personal suggestions):
*Do not remove anything from the park.
*Do not disturb or clean any trees, mosses, lichens, or other plants.
*Avoid the forest, there are MANY problems on the beach.
*Be respectful of other people using the beach.
*Do not light any fires. (not really a 'climber' problem but worth noting)
Climb safe and have fun.
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krillen
May 20, 2003, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2001
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ATTN:
As of Mid Saturday this past weekend, climbers bouldering in the Halfway Dump area were notifed that bouldering in Halfway Dump was Prohibited. There were no signs, nothing physycaly posted. they were told by a ranger that there was information "on the internet". I've searched and I can't find ANYTHING, ANYWHERE. I've searched the National Parks sites, CA sites, local municipality sites, escarpment.ca, Ontario Parks site, climbers.org, and here and this post is the closest I've found.
When we went by Monday morning there was a hand made sign, with no official disignations, or even a note as to who posted it stating "Bouldering Prohibitted"
Does anyone have any additional information on this?
Addendum: I just emailed Parks Canada with a request for information, we'll see what happens from this.... :?
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krillen
May 20, 2003, 9:30 PM
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sorry, gotsta *BUMP*
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downshift
May 21, 2003, 1:52 AM
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In reply to: When we went by Monday morning there was a hand made sign, with no official disignations, or even a note as to who posted it stating "Bouldering Prohibitted"
A hand written sign? That spells professionalism. At least they could have printed something up on official letterhead and laminated it up. That would have set the back a whole quarter. There not really justified in fining anyone if it?s not communicated properly.
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krillen
May 21, 2003, 11:28 AM
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That was my argument, I could have put that up for all anyone knows!
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w6jxm
May 21, 2003, 6:11 PM
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Lets just say that the sign "fell down" and was hauled to the dump in a beach clean up project :)
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krillen
May 22, 2003, 1:31 PM
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Sorry to tell you guys, but Halfway dump is OFFICIALLY closed to climbing.
I heard this last night from our Access connection.
I'll post the email once I get the OK but according to the parks guys in charge it's for real.
Maybe with your help we can get this area re-opened, but we need your help.
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ethanmeleg
May 22, 2003, 8:27 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2003
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I would like to confirm that effective immediately (May 22, 2003), bouldering is prohibited in Bruce Peninsula National Park and Fathom Five National Marine Park (Halfway Log Dump is within Bruce Peninsula National Park). I realize that this is in contradiction to infomation that was disseminated earlier and apologize for the confusion. The park will issue more information shortly, that includes the rationale for the ban and contact information to address your comments.
Sincerely,
Ethan Meleg, Outreach Coordinator, Bruce Peninsula National Park and Fathom Five National Marine Park
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darkside
May 23, 2003, 1:31 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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In reply to: ...be sure not to disturb any plants, mosses, lichens, or other vegetation. Remember, you may think brushing off that lichen is no big deal but the park wardens do; is it worth losing access for one handhold or getting a $1000 fine?
Evidentally some dickweed thought it was worth it because park wardens just found more boulders stripped of vegetation. They are responsible for changing the parks desire to work with boulderers, to a decision to protect the area with a ban.
I would like to congratulate the said dickweed on his new first ascent and the new concept he came up with entitled last ascent. Do yourself a favour and don't ever let me find out who you are. I will make sure everyone else knows exactly who is responsible for closing Halfway, and I am not talking about the park wardens and staff.
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downshift
May 23, 2003, 9:14 PM
Post #10 of 14
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In reply to: Evidentally some dickweed thought it was worth it because park wardens just found more boulders stripped of vegetation. They are responsible for changing the parks desire to work with boulderers, to a decision to protect the area with a ban.
I assume most people that climb have some common sense. But, I seem to be getting proven wrong every day. Why can't some poeple apriciate nature?
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darkside
May 24, 2003, 2:57 PM
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It would seem there is more duplicity than I had first thought. These posts were made on the gripped.com BB.
New information seems to be coming to light on the Halfway situation. It is very grim for access as a whole and something that every climber whether boulderer, sport, trad, or whatever discipline needs to react to. The ACCess committee needs help with this. The first step will be a letter writing campaign to Ross Thomson - Park Superintendent, Bruce Peninsula National Park. I do not have the e-mail info to hand but will post it as and when I find it or if someone finds it first then please feel free. Hardcopy mail will have a greater impact and the address is below. I would urge you to voice your opinions strongly but respectfully. We are taxpayers and entitled to use National Park resourses and we must be seen as the responsible users the vast majority of us are.
Ross Thompson
Superindendent
Bruce Peninsula National Park
Box 189, 248 Big Tub Road
Tobermory, Ontario.
N0H 2R0
Along with this.
I have just recieved an e-mail from Dr Harry Hoediono of the ACCess Committee and he asked me to post it online. Please read it.
Halfway Log Dump Officially Closed to Bouldering
The following information may provide some background and clarity regarding
the "temporary" ban on bouldering at Halfway Log Dump.
Effective immediately, bouldering is not allowed at Bruce Peninsula National
Park or at Fathom Five National Marine Park of Canada. Roped rock
climbing, however, is still allowed in the Park at cliffs designated by already
existing routes. New routes are not permitted.
Boulderers will be allowed a grace period (verbal warning and information
only), until the official Parks Canada release has been "distributed
sufficiently." Officially sanctioned and appropriate signage outlining the ban
and restrictions is to follow.
This ban was put in place by Ross Thompson, superindendent of Bruce
Peninsula National Park ["in conjunction with advice from staff"], as a
"precautionary or preventive measure to protect the resources of the park."
Park officials indicated that more boulders were found with moss removed and
that park stafff "were overwhelmed by the shear numbers of boulderers over
the May Long weekend." Because of the park staff's poor lack of knowledge
of this "new or recent" phenomenon (bouldering) and the lack of data on the
activity on Park resources; it was thus hastily decided to put the ban in place
and erect unofficially approved signage and inform boulderers who were
already in the park of the ban. No prior notice of this policy change was given
to the Access Committee. No data or statistical analysis was provided to
support reasons for the ban on bouldering.
No indication was given by park authorities as to whether the moss removed
from the newly discovered boulders was "new," or from last year. No
indication was given if it was even boulderers that committed the damage. No
indication was given as to whether any one boulderer was actually seen
committing this violation of moss removal, or whether it was some estranged
botanist committing the offence as a random act of "research sampling."
The park management has the authority, through its operations mandate, to
ban an activity they deem may harm the Park's resources. This ban will be
reviewed next year, at the end of the Park's five year planning cycle. I have
been assured, again, by Mr. Meleg that I and the Access Committee will be
personally informed, of the time, and place at which we may address the
concerns of climbers; and forward our data, analysis of the ban and resource
management recommendations.
Park Management is aware that the climbing community, like "any other user
group," has the right to use the park, which they as taxpayers support,
provided they - "like snowmobilers and other user groups"- do not damage
park features. Park Management if committed to working with the various
user groups to ensure the preservation of the Park's resources yet still make
those resources available to the tax paying public.
On April 19, 2003, I met with Ethan Meleg, Outreach Co-ordinator for Bruce
Peninsula National Park and Fathom Five National Marine Park. We met at
Halfway Log Dump to: tour the rock climbing and bouldering areas, examine
the removal of moss from "a specific boulder site" which occurred last year,
identify and discuss the impact of bouldering on micro-specific flora, review
and construct guidelines for climbing and bouldering in the park under the
stewardship of the Access Committee, and co-ordinate the dissemination of
information between the climbing community and park management.
I was assured, at this time, by Mr. Meleg that bouldering was allowed in the
park, preferrably on the beach where boulders were already naturally denuded
of vegetation and that bouldering in the forest should be avoided if possible.
Under no circumstances was vegetation to be removed or damaged anywhere
in the park. Further, I was allowed to replace aging and decaying climbing
hardware on existing routes in the designated climbing areas over the next
year. This was to be done only under Access Committee direction and only
by the designated individuals.
I was informed that this directive, of not damaging any natural features of the
park; was also applicable to other user groups such as hikers, who may be
trampling on the trails, picnicking families who may be gathering wood for
their beach fires, amateur botanists who may be illegally digging up rare
orchids to take home, stone poachers who may be stealing shore stone for
their ornamental gardens, and even birdwatchers who may remove brush to
get a better look at some rare migrating birds.
I was assured that boulderers were to be treated like any other user group,
"just like hikers, snowmobilers, birdwatchers etc.. It was clear that
snowmobiling is allowed in Bruce National Park, and has been for many
years.
Further, I was assured that the Access Committee would be the first to be
contacted should any change in Park policy occur. I have delayed in
informing the climbing community of this official change in policy, as I was
asked to wait until Park Staff sent me the official and approved Park press
release.
Since, I have not received this to date, and Mr. Meleg has already posted to
the Gripped Bulletin Board, I can only assume that there is merit to Bob
Marley's song lyrics - "waiting in vain."
I have received several e-mails, phone calls and direct communications of the
ban, outside of "an offical Park release." Further, it has come to the attention
of the Access Committee, that climbers were "harassed, identity questioned,
their names recorded and threatened with violation tickets during this past
May long weekend. Also, unofficial signs, hand-drawn, on unapproved Park
signage material was posted banning bouldering.
Park wardens were enforcing a policy change without yet "offically" informing
the general public through any of their many available media outlets.
To the climbing community I would like to make it clear that I have tried very
hard to communicate with Park Management, resolve some of their concerns
and offer advice in their management of this "new" but valid and recognized
user group.
As this is the "official" information posting from the Access Committee, I am
not prepared to comment personally about the ban at this time. I will,
however, make my views known at a more appropriate time and in a more
appropriate forum.
The person directly responsible for the ban is:
Ross Thompson
Superindendent
Bruce Peninsula National Park
Box 189, 248 Big Tub Road
Tobermory, Ontario.
N0H 2R0
I regret that I was unable to overt the ban, and for the delay in getting out this
information to the climbing community. The Access Committee is still
waiting for the "official Park press release" at this time.
Harry Hoediono
Portfolio Manager - Bruce Peninsula
Access Committee
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missedyno
Jun 3, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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alas, I went to halfway dump to hike this weekend, and the official letter banning 'the sport known as "bouldering" ' was on the bulletin board. too bad because it's such a beautiful place.
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craggy
Jun 3, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
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All my plans ruined for this summer.... :( All I have now is the Glen. It was a gorgeous place to visit, not only for the bouldering but for the camping, swimming and hiking. Actually it is still a great place to visit if you are in Ontario for camping. It's pristine up there and maybe now will be less people...
Craggy
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darkside
Jun 3, 2003, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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What's with you guys? Work on access at the Dump continues but we need people to write letters. Remember to keep it respectful and follow the guidelines that are posted on the Gripped BB. CLICK HERE for more information and details of the letter writing campaign.
Access in Ontario is facing pressures such as have never been present before. If you are prepared to give up climbing then sit back and hang up your shoes. If on the other hand you are not prepared to hang up your shoes, you need to be prepared to act. Make no mistake - this goes way beyond the Dump, very shortly we are going to be faced with the closure of all climbing in the Bruce Peninsula. Contact me if you need to.
No more complaining. ACT.
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