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simzboardr
May 12, 2003, 2:15 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Anyone have a guide book with Cathedral ledge in it. Or know where to get one?
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jackflash
May 12, 2003, 2:21 AM
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Jerry Handren's Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges is pretty good. Its part of the New England Rockfax books.
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spiffdog
May 13, 2003, 7:00 PM
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If your going to do Mines of Moria, the Handren book is wrong about the second pitch. I think the Webster guide is accurate. I bailed after pitch one because according to the Handren guide, the route goes left after the first belay, which looked completely psycho, and is actually the Soft Iron Route at A3 (I think, corrections welcome). The route actually goes 20 feet right from the anchor along a shelf, then up. The Prow is a fun solo-aid with a great little roof. You can do it in two pitches with a 70, or possibly a 60 if you free solo a little in the beginning. Three pitches with a 60 for sure. -Spiff
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simzboardr
May 13, 2003, 11:16 PM
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Yea i plan to climb the Prow, probalby 3 pitch two person mixed aid and free
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edge
May 14, 2003, 12:43 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index%3Dbooks%26field-keywords%3DRock%20climbs%20in%20the%20white%20Mountains/104-5555462-8515122 "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, East Edition" By Ed Webster.
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mojorisin
May 14, 2003, 1:54 AM
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In reply to: Yea i plan to climb the Prow, probalby 3 pitch two person mixed aid and free The Prow is 4 pitches if you count the 5-7 scramble up to the first belay. That roof section is awesome, You could free the last pitch if you want, either way. Mines of Moria is cool too but the other guy is right about it going left after the first belay across a shelf and then up. Mordar wall is a spectacular route as well as The Brittish are coming. Thats A-3 but on the second pitch the piton is blown(at least it was last june) that was at the top of the flake that goes right , Paul had to use the smallest stopper on his rack then a scary bathook to the next placement, so its like A-3+. And if your aid climbing on Cathedral bring rivet hangers.
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kungfuclimber
May 14, 2003, 4:03 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
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what what what? Good pro to a small stopper (lets say an RP) to a crappy hook to another good pro is A3+!?! I've done that on A2. Unless there was a giant belly ripping flake below him I wouldn't call that A3+.. Sorry for hijacking.. I'll be quiet now.
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mojorisin
May 14, 2003, 11:13 AM
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In reply to: what what what? Good pro to a small stopper (lets say an RP) to a crappy hook to another good pro is A3+!?! I've done that on A2. Unless there was a giant belly ripping flake below him I wouldn't call that A3+.. Sorry for hijacking.. I'll be quiet now. Your not hijacking dude,, Are you familiar with the flake I am refering too. Remember the piton that was at the top right? It blew out and Im sure the valley heard the scream when it did. Im going by what My partner had rated it in the style we used that day. He has 30+ years behind him so I didnt second guess his call. However as far as I know the route is A-3. I dont have a book in front of me. Anyway I just wanted to give the other guy a heads up,,thats all.
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