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zmehl
May 14, 2003, 8:01 PM
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My first shoes were/still are the Boreal Matrix. I have used them since July and they still fit great. However they are not stiff at all. I can bend the toes with no effort. I am looking for a new pair of shoes for sport and gym climbing with some stiffness. I was thinking the Pyros, the Anasazzis or maybe even Ninjas. I also hear Mad Rocks are nice. Any thoughts?
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moeman
May 14, 2003, 8:18 PM
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Get the La Sportiva Katanas. They are a velcro slippper like the pyros and anisazis, but are narrower with a better heel and they don't stretch. And they stick to everything. They grab and hold like glue. They are simply the best sport/bouldering shoes I've eve owned. And, unlike the Anisazis, they edge well engough that you can climb some short multipitch in them as well.
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cloudbreak
May 14, 2003, 8:57 PM
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In reply to: And, unlike the Anisazis, they edge well engough that you can climb some short multipitch in them as well.
What do you mean by this? The Anasazis edge on a dime Bro! And, what does that have to do with climbing multipitch?
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jhwnewengland
May 14, 2003, 9:33 PM
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I have to agree with Couldbreak here. The Anasazis are the best edging shoe I've ever used, because of their relaively stiff midsole.
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beyond_gravity
May 14, 2003, 10:09 PM
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I used to have the Matrix too, I got a pair of Kantanas and it felt like I was cheating. Katanas fit my foot much better then the anasazis. Get either the Katanas or Anasazis, depending on what one feels better. Don't bother with Boreal.
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salami
May 14, 2003, 10:38 PM
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I would buy the Pyros and resole them with C4. I use shoes for finger cracks, multipitch sport routes.
I also have the Anasazzi that I use for my hard redpoints.
Just buy the shoe that fits well and then resole it if the company is known for their crap rubber.
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anasazifan
May 14, 2003, 10:47 PM
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It just depends, I like pyros alot for indoor and anasazi alot for outdoor. Both are sufficient.
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monkeyarm
May 14, 2003, 10:58 PM
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the mad rock shoes are awesome, real sticky, better than five tens. Don't get anything boreal, i used to have a pair of aces and I was amazed at how other shoes seem almost magic in comparison to the crappy boreal rubber.
I currently use mad rock hookers, although if you are looking for something stiff they probly aren't the best choice.
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rhu
May 16, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Yeah, skip the Boreal. I have a pair that I thought were fine until this weekend when I tried on the Anasazzis. HUGE difference. I don't know about the others but the Anasazzis have my vote.
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overlord
May 18, 2003, 10:01 AM
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anassazis rock. i mean you have like 10 times the power you have in boreals.
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milodog13
May 18, 2003, 1:38 PM
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Hey, the pyros are excellent have a pair and if the matrixes fit you great they will as well, they are basiclly the same shoes, but with velcro and neoprene in the top. I had no trouble with edgeing, the shoes are considerably stiffer then the matrixes, but the matrixes were designed speciffically that way as primarilly a bouldering shoe...Quality control on every pair of 5.10's is poor at best and although everyone whines about the boreal rubber, I have never had any trouble. And besides evryone I have known that says the rubeer is so bad has never owned a pair themselves, they KNOW someone who has a pair..
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vanny37
May 18, 2003, 3:42 PM
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Anasazi!! I prefer all things 5.10, so I am biased, but I do think they are the best shoes. I think that 5.10's don't always have the greatest quality in the shoe construction (last, midsole, rand, etc) as do the LaSportiva shoes, but overall they make a better climbing shoe. The rubber is better anyway, my pair of 5.10 spires destroy my LaSportiva pair of shoes.
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indyclimber
May 22, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2003
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dude~ get the anasazi velcro!! i got a pair and i will never go back to anything else. they smear like a slipper, are stiff and tight like a lace up. there my favorite climbing shoe!
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petsfed
May 22, 2003, 4:06 PM
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Fair enough. After I got my Katanas, my Boreal DiaBLOWS have gone to the dead gear pile because the rubber simply sucks in comparison. I'm looking forward to resoling my Katanas with C4 and using my diablos as flower pots.
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igcuesta
May 22, 2003, 5:10 PM
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In my opinion Boreal beats 5.10 when it goes for construction quality. Anyway c4 is (no doubt) the best rubber nowadays. I have a couple of 5.10 anasazzi (velcro and lace up) and I use them mostly on granite routes where friction is the point (I prefer the lace up pair for hard redpoints on very technical and vertical slabs). For hard redpoints on technical limestone (vertical or little steep and small feet positions), where rubber is not a serious limitation I prefer to use a pair of Boreal Zens as they are stiffer. On big overhangs with big holds for feet, I change again to the softer Anasazzi velcro which allows to 'feel' better how and where I place my feet.
As far as I know Anasazzi Lace Up, and Boreal pyros, are shoes designed for different uses. Pyros are best used on huge overhangs with big feet positions, toe hooks, ... anasazzis lace up are a good commitment between technical and steep routes. Anasazzi velcro might have an intermediate use between lace ups and pyros. The latter are in my opinion too specific to be an 'all situation' climbing shoe.
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bsperes
May 22, 2003, 5:17 PM
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In reply to: Hey, thQuality control on every pair of 5.10's is poor at best and although everyone whines about the boreal rubber, I have never had any trouble. And besides evryone I have known that says the rubeer is so bad has never owned a pair themselves, they KNOW someone who has a pair..
I have the pyros, the miuras, anasazi velcros, and others. I climbed on boreal rubber, was sliding off of stuff, switched to c4 and stuck like mad.
I then re-soled the pyros in C4, it rocks your dome.
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reborne
May 22, 2003, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Jan 24, 2003
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the only thing i can say bad about the anasazi is if you have a narrow heel you might not fill out the shoe and they wont heel very well they dont really heall very well anyway (anasazi dont stretch either, with regard to an earlier post)... katanas i know heel much better ... sorry im not familiar with the pyros so i cant help ya there .... THE NEW ANASAZI THAT ARNT OUT JUST YET THE RED VELCROS ARE LIKE A PLATFORM IN THE FRONT AND SIMILAR TO THE MADROCKS HEALS IN THE BACK THERE SO SWEET IF YOU CAN WAIT but there sooo expensive compared to madrocks
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