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Strategy for Spaceshot
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epic_ed


May 14, 2003, 3:40 PM
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Strategy for Spaceshot
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Doing Spaceshot next weekend and need some input about a two-day strategy. Here are the particulars:

- It will be my partners first wall. Account for slowness and gumby-isms.
- I'm leading every pitch (his choice).
- Plan to fix to the top of P4 the first day.
- We will be prepared for any bivy situation necessary due to route crowds we're likely to encounter that weekend. We will both have bivy sacks and one double portaledge.
- We'd like to NOT haul either day if possible.
- Bivy options are to rap to the ground from the top of P4. This means no hauling either day, but that's a lot of juggin' to start the second day.
- Second bivy option (and probably my most favored) is to haul gear up to the Alpine start ledge only on the first day. Sleep there and we have one less pitch to jug the second day and will likely not have to haul the rest of the route.
- Third option is to haul all the way. That lets us sleep where ever we want (probably the top of P4) and no jugging to start off the second day. Obviously we will lose time from hauling both days.

Questions:

- Crowd situations will probably dictate our choices, but if you had to choose, which would you pick. Specifically, I'm wondering how many can sleep on the Alpine start ledge if there's another party (I'm aware of the "secret spot" around the right). Most importantly, if we haul all of our bivy gear up there, how easy/difficult is it to lower that stuff back down to the ground so we don't have to take it up with us? Or would it be easier to leave it on the ledge and come back for it after we're finished with the route.
- Any other suggestions/ideas for the route to minimize our efforts? Doing it in a day isn't an option for this team, unfortunately.

Much thanks!

Ed

-


bsinger


May 14, 2003, 4:20 PM
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Re: Strategy for Spaceshot [In reply to]
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Did spaceshot in 2 days. Fixed to pitch 4, jugged the next day and finished in the evening. Tricky rap descent so slept on top. If I did it again, I would haul and sleep wherever. The first three pitches are a bitch to haul, but after that the pig will hardly hit the wall. Two more things, take a hook for the start of the 4th pitch bolt ladder and be careful of the loose rock on earth orbit ledge. Beautiful route, have fun


crotch


May 14, 2003, 5:03 PM
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epic_ed


May 14, 2003, 5:12 PM
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Is that the top of P3?

Problem with that scenario is then we'd have to drag the bivy gear up the rest of the way with us. What are your thoughts about being able to lower bivy stuff to the ground from the Alpine start ledge? Doable? Or not a good idea?


mokingfetid


May 14, 2003, 8:41 PM
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Even if it is your partner's first wall, Spaceshot can easily be done in a day. Just bring fresh batteries for your headlamp. Spaceshot was the first wall for both my partner and myself and we did it in a day without to much trouble. This would be a good chance to get your partner off to a good start by showing him just what can be done in a day. If you do decide you have to take two days, remember just how bad it sucks to decend with a pig and bivy gear.


flamer


May 14, 2003, 10:15 PM
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Re: Strategy for Spaceshot [In reply to]
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IMHO Sleeping on the Alpine start ledge would be a complete waste of time...it would be better to sleep on the ground. Also don't use the Alpine start....It is also a waste of time, It appears to be good climbing...but alot more of a pain in the ass if you intend to climb the entire route(it gets done as a single pitch alot).
Ok assuming you won't be doing it in a day, here's what I would do.
Fix to the top of four...and sleep at the base of the bolt ladder.
If possible don't haul...have your second jugg with a pack. Don't take sleeping bags...just bivy sacks..should be plenty this time of year. Don't take a port-a-ledge...just sleep on the ledges.
If there are to many people on this route do Touchstone instead.
And most important..ENJOY!!!
josh


bigdan


May 14, 2003, 11:41 PM
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Yeah, it was the first real wall for my partner and I as well a while back. We did it in about 8 hours without too much trouble, and didn't free the upper pitches. I wouldn't recommend going for two days, it would be too much extra work. Bring headlamps and just go. It's extremely straightforward, and as was mentioned, the descent would suck with gear.

If you do go for two days, I'd go without the ledge. Bivy at the base of the headwall or just descend for the night. Unless you're shooting for ledge practice.

If the crowds begin to dictate your climbing much, move elsewhere. Moonlight Buttress is easier than Spaceshot, though will likely have someone on it on the weekend. Zion is loaded with moderates.


epic_ed


May 19, 2003, 2:41 PM
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Looks like strategy for Spaceshot this weekend would involve pre-rigged IV fluids at each belay. Temps in the mid 90s? We're going to look at doing something else unless it cools down a few degrees.

Thanks for the input, anyways.

Ed


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