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The Best Way To Pendulum
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dagawebb


May 16, 2003, 9:20 PM
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The Best Way To Pendulum
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:D
Can anyone give a web address or info to find out where I can get some more info on Pendulums.

Cheers


copperhead


May 16, 2003, 9:49 PM
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http://monet.physik.unibas.ch/~elmer/pendulum/


dagawebb


May 16, 2003, 11:12 PM
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Sorry should have specified a little clearer.

I want to work on my pendulums when Aid climbing. I want to see what other options there are. ie lowering method and how to protect after the pendulum. What setup people use in the anchors.

Cheers :o


copperhead


May 17, 2003, 8:37 AM
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Sorry bro. I was messin’ with ya. :wink:


The Pendulum or the Pit:

Lower to approximate level

Scope out the moves at the end of the pendulum – do you need to free climb? What aid gear will you place? Is the pendulum destination point fixed? Have appropriate gear ready to place.

Keep your aiders and such out of the way while you penji; you don't want to trip on a tangle of webbing.

Start swinging by running back and forth. If you are too low or not low enough, then adjust.

It may take a few tries depending on the penji; some are more difficult than others.

Latch it and go. Don’t leave any gear (back-clean) until you are at the level of the original penji point or above. Beware of rope drag.

The cleaner should leave a small sling on the original penji point and lower out from it.

That’s the basics…


lambone


May 18, 2003, 3:13 PM
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Yup...

I have also found that it helps if you have the gear you need for the first moveafter the penji ready, if you know what that is. Otherwise you'll be struggling to hold on under tension while screwing around with the rack.

A Big hook might help to hold you in place, depending on what your penji-ing to.


alpinestylist


May 19, 2003, 10:58 AM
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As#$ole troll...

How do I go about the penji in the middle of Hook or Book?

I've heard it is hard if it isn't fixed?


karlbaba


May 21, 2003, 9:29 AM
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I recomment Don Reid's "The Video Guide to Aid Climbing" which covers numerous methods of pendulum technology in detail

PTPP would say there is tons of outdated "Big Wall Theory" taught in this video. Ironically, he is in it.

The Pendulum stuff is perfect and I show the video to folks I climb walls with

PEace

karl


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