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Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific?
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pirate


May 17, 2003, 12:37 PM
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Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific?
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Hi everybody Ive been reading tons of stuff here and really enjoy everybodies input.
I live right now in the Canadian Rockies but soon Ill be moving to Australia. Ive seen some info on some allright trad routes out there but the biggest stuff Ive seen is 200-500m and there not really listing any aid, Im starting to get a little freaked out its bad enough that Ill have to fly somewhere to do any big alpine stuff (thank goodness new zealand is close But Ill still have to fly other places as well) . There is some trad stuff in Australia but where is the AID does anybody out there know anything significant out there maybe in the new zealand fjord's or somewhere else? hopefully A2+ at least, and over 500m. Id like something that takes more then 1 long day to climb. otherwise where would the nearest easy access big walls be from Australia Ill be around Sydney.
If any one can help that would be great.


dagawebb


May 17, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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Mate there is Aid climbing in Australia. The best and really only Aiding is in MT Buffalo. The walls are not over 500m they are only 300m.
There are several notable climbs within MT Buffalo, they are mostly located on the North Wall of The Gorge at MT Buffalo.
The Victorian Climbing Club has a good website but does not really list the climbs rather they list the guides for the area. The link is http://www.vicclimb.org.au/pages/frame.html
You can also try this website and search by Grade http://www.thecrag.com/home.html
Notable climbs that you may want to tick at MT Buffalo are as follows
Ozymandias A2 to A2+
Holden Caufield M8
Lord Gumtree M6
Now the bad news, I was down there climbing Ozymandias about 2 months ago and MT Buffalo is closed permanantly for 12 Months. :-(
The other option for you if you cannot Aid you can alwaya to MT Arapiles located 25km from Horsham in Victoria.
Or you could come to canberra after September and climb with me.

Hope this gives you the infor you need. If you have any more question email me at david_webb@telstra.com

Cheers


pirate


May 17, 2003, 4:15 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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Thanks a heap David I know i had seen some stuff on aiding in Australia but I couldnt find it...I have a tonne of info know on Mt buffalo and It gives me some relief to know theres some good routes there. How about Tazmania I hear theres some good stuff but know one has any beta?
How is New Zealand? is there any big wall climbs there? I cant seem to find anything.
Im in canada for another year so I have time to do some more routes around here before I move and will get to el cap hopefully once or twice as well.
thanks for the beta
Ill give you an email so we can chat cheers
shawn
abootyhunter@yahoo.ca


dagawebb


May 17, 2003, 8:22 PM
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Mate here is a website to start with it is http://www.tassie.net.au/~jnermut/Areas/minorareas.htm

It is just some minor areas that have climbing some are bigger than 500m dont know personally what the climbing is like but in Tassie it is generally very good. The rock is great and solid in most places

If I were a betting man I reckon you would be very happy with the climbing in Tasmania and would end up finding your way to Buffalo.

Check out this site give a list of the guidebooks availible
http://www.thecrag.com/cgi-bin/guidebooks.cgi?crag=Australia%2fTasmania
If you would like more infor please email me

Cheers
Dave


pirate


May 17, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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:D Oh yeah baby now where talkin I see definate relief of my anxiety buffalo and taz will be staples of my down under diet thanks a heap Dave. mmmmmmm anybody know anything on new zealand or islands with big stuff?


Partner philbox
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May 18, 2003, 2:51 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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Here`s a few walls for ya. Admittedly they aren`t thousands of metres tall but nevertheless they are a fun romp ifn you wish to keep your hand in.

Mt. Warning has a lot to offer including first ascents if you so desire. There are at least two routes awaiting someone to go in there and make the effort.

http://www.pbase.com/...ens_birthday_weekend
http://www.mrppp.com.au/...t_Warning_Index.html

Glasshouse Mountains are an old trad area that is seeing a resurgence of interest. Mt. Beerwah has some awesome aid routes up to A3+ and beyond if you have the kahoonas to put up with the soft rock.


http://www.qurank.com/glasshouse/


Mt. Tibrogargan has absolutely bullet hard rock and some wonderful exposed long routes up steep volcanic rock.

Warrambungles has some great old mega classic routes up huge volcanic plugs, dikes and spires.

Sure none of these mountains could be considered alpine but hey they are great for long serious climbs be that aid or trad.

...Phil...


pirate


May 18, 2003, 11:16 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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Hey Phill thanks for the heads up. I know when my wife and I first get to Australia (after visiting the family) were going to tour around a bit and kind of get an idea where we want to settle down ...although well probably end up around sydney (thats where my wifes family are) But well definitely be heading up to
Brisbane area, its good to know there looks to be some cool stuff happening up there. Thanks for the PM i got it saved.
cheers
:D

Shawn

....still no info on new zealand .........is there anything out there?


Partner philbox
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May 19, 2003, 12:01 AM
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You should definitely check out SE Queensland before deciding to settle anywhere. Sydney traffic is insane I mean 24 hour a day peak hour grid lock traffic. Mind you the climbing up in the Blue Mountains is not bad at all. The climbing in South East Queensland is pretty good to though. Anyway check it all out I`m sure you`ll find it all good. The weather up here is damn fine all year round though, hard to beat not having to wear winter woolies for the whole year eh.

...Phil...


fishypete


May 19, 2003, 12:43 AM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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I'm from Tassie!

Definitely very unique climbing, especially cracks and sea-stacks.

Perhaps the most parallel cracks in the world are to be found on Ben Lomond. Right up there with Devils Tower!

http://www.tassie.net.au/...ut/Areas/flutes2.jpg

http://www.tassie.net.au/~jnermut/Areas/cal3.jpg

200 cracks, 200 parallel metres each! Wow!

And of course, how could any Tasmanian reference be complete without the Totem Pole, which is an aid climb for most mortals (it goes free in the 5.12's somewhere if I remember).

http://www.tassie.net.au/~jnermut/Areas/tote.jpg


There is also some imposing back-country climbs on middle-size walls (with about a one-day approach through some very wild country). Check out routes on Frenchman's Cap, they are around 400 m I think.

I really recommend a Tassie trip! You will definitely find some great climbing.


Cheers

Fishy.


pirate


May 19, 2003, 12:44 PM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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Thanks Phil and Pete Ill definately be checking out Queensland ,New south wales and Victoria to settle down in and I know Ill be seeing alot of Tazzie to say the least. Then hopefully fairly regular trips to other contries to get my fix.
Like I said Im here for another year and a bit so my summer is a bit shot as Im going back guiding and although I get out lots usually not to do the stuff I want , but I will be in great shape I usually log 200km a wek in distance and about 1500m a day elevation gain X 10days a shift so I really get a work out unfortunately going 10 days with 13 hr days and then only 4 days off doesnt give me much time to get in my own stuff usually I fit in 1 or 2 trips on my off shifts but it screws me up royally last year I did my 10 on finifhed at 21:00hrs was pre packed to go on a trip to climb MT Joffre 3449m but one friggin long aproach we drove through the night got 2 hrs semi comatose rest in the car and then hiked the bull $hit aproach 3-5 hrs my ass aster lake is like 15 hard Km in and then your sticken miles away from the Glacier we round tripped it with only 2 hrs rest at the car then 1 hr at aster lake then bivvied 4 hrs in a cave to wait out a mother storm then pushed out to climb the north face direct bailed out a team that got up there but couldnt get down since they didnt bring enough rope! and then went straight out total calculated hiking distance around 70 km my platapus blew out we were on rationed water 2 packs of pasta and a couple bars total time 34 hrs then drive home unpack finally get some sleep and then the next day its back to work to enthustiastically take pople out on a typically slow and long going trip that will entail the normal client entertainment and answering all thier questions from what kind of plant is that? where do bears sleep in the summer ? for how long? How much does that mountain weigh? etc etc.
Sheesh Imsure I had a point somewhere? Oh yeah to make a short story agonizingly long.......When my typical trip goes like that ( I still left out all the epical parts out like climbing in full sonditions and having to move simul solo since there was no protecting the 70 degree slurpee ice we got on to totally granulated down to the rock on the upper section 1 foot deep but hey this is minor compared to the wind when it started to build you needed the 4 points of contact and all slack in clothing taken in to avoid being blown clean off the face.............Geez I thought I was ending this.............Oh yeah so this summer besides the odd little trip Ill be just waiting until mid september when Im going to take as much time off as I can to get in some more major trips.(hopefully Ill have several monthes to do climbing trips)

Cheers

Shawn


pirate


May 23, 2003, 10:20 AM
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Re: Any Aid/bigwalls in New Zealand, Australia south Pacific [In reply to]
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So Im sitting here still wondering if theres anything worthwile to Aid in New zealand? No one seems to touch on the subject, I have found very minnimal information on aiding there. Geez you would think there would be something of significance there.
Please let me know if you can.
cheers :?
Shawn


waxtadpole


May 26, 2003, 10:02 PM
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The Wolgan Valley, in the Blue mtns near Lithgow, has some scary sandstone aid. Less than 300m though. Also dogface wall near katoomba and some shorter stuff near it on the Narrow Neck peninsula.

Cheers
Wax


pirate


May 28, 2003, 11:19 PM
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Thanks for the tip wax.
Question who has beta on anything good in new zealand as far as Aid goes?
I was kind of under the impression that there might be a mountain there certainly there must be something to aid over there besides trees eh?
anyone?????????????????
cheers


wallwombat


Jul 8, 2003, 1:52 AM
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If you are going to be in Sydney definitely check out the Dogface in the Blue Mountains. This is predominately a cliff for aid climbers with about 20 climbs 100 -200 m high a bit reminiscent of Zion (ie soft, loose sandstone). The height may not be up to scratch, but nothing to stop you going for multiple routes in a single push, I guess. Check out the Wolgan Valley and the Grose Valley, also in the Blue Mountains. You will find loads of unclimbed rock with plenty of hard aid potential.
In New Zealand check out the Darrens. I think there are some big aid routes on the south faces of Mt Sabre and Mt Marion. Good luck.


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