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jnc007add
May 19, 2003, 4:52 PM
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Well for memorial day we were going to go the gunks, well, with the onslaught of rain their expecting, we're looking at the dacks now. Short of having a guide book, we KNOW NOTHING! Please I need crag beta. I need the whole thing. Which ones are the Good cliffs with an assortment of climbing from 5.6 - 5.10. I need to know about the towns for the evenings of druken bragging, and I need to know where the best camp sites are. I like camp slime at the gunks so if there are comparable sites I would like to know. We have a member of our party who recently twisted his ankle, so any info on how arduous the approachs are would be great too. Thanks for any and all help
Josh
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drewkoff
May 19, 2003, 5:18 PM
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I would go the high peaks region. The whole chapel Pond area is amazing. The beer walls are great, more popular. But all the climbing in that area off of rt 73 (or 74? I forget) is great, and has short approaches. Keene Valley is a cool little climbing town, check out the Mountineer for a great gear store, and they can help with beta. There is a camp ground closer to lake placid, at a place called the Adirondack Loj. it is about 20 minutes away. have fun the 'dacks are awesome!
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jnc007add
May 19, 2003, 5:29 PM
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Do you have a number for this Mountaineer shop???
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tcollins
May 19, 2003, 6:47 PM
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Here's their web page.
http://neice.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=sfnt&Store_Code=MTR
Google works wonders.
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jkarns
May 19, 2003, 7:05 PM
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I agree with Drew that the High Peaks are the way to go. The Beerwalls is your best bet for lower commitment, shorter approach, yet quality with a good number of moderates. If you feel like challenging yourself, step across the street and to sample the fine cracks of the Spider's Web. Long, runout slab climbs at Chapel Pond Slab and elsewhere, For moderates in a beautiful setting off the beaten path check out Barkereater behind the Rock and River lodge. The Mountaineer can give lots of beta too. You'll drive past it in Keene.
Oh, and hi DrewKoff, what's up?
Josh
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jnc007add
May 19, 2003, 7:28 PM
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When you say you'll drive by it in keene, is that keene, nh or keene ny or some other keene?
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cjburchell
May 20, 2003, 5:10 PM
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Don't forget about Pok-O-Moonshine( http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1742 ) it has the best long climbs, check out the classics there like Gamesmanship 5.8, FM 5.7 and Fastest Gun 5.9 all around 5 pitches each. Also there is a state campground at the base of the cliff.
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clmbng_addict
May 20, 2003, 5:17 PM
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In reply to: When you say you'll drive by it in keene, is that keene, nh or keene ny or some other keene?
Keene, NY. Find a map of upstate NY and follow rt. 73 from I-87 exit 30 (i think it's exit 30) and pretty soon you'll hit Keene. It's right in the heart of the high peaks region.
Can't help you with climbing beta though, as i've backpacked but haven't climbed there yet. Good luck!
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vtposer
May 20, 2003, 10:01 PM
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Dude, head for Keene Valley. Upper washbowl, beer walls, Pok0moonshine, and barkeater all have a multitude of great climbs and are all within about 20 minutes drive from each other. the aproches to the beer walls and poko are sweat but washbowl is not the most pleasent, losts of loose rocks. barkeater is about a 20 minute hike but the first 15 minutes are on a flat trail. Have fun.
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gunkiemike
May 21, 2003, 3:12 PM
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Don't assume the weather in the ADKs will be better than at the Gunks. It's usually the opposite. If you're used to the climbing scene at the Gunks, you will find the ADKs a bit different. Compared to the Gunks which have been called "an outdoor gym", the ADK crags are spread out, there's no close by town a la New Paltz, the camping tends to be more stealthy e.g. at the base of the Chapel Pond slab or across from the Speder Web wall, the routes more complex. But the overall experience is probably more rewarding.
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krillen
May 21, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Grab the guide book at the mountaineer. A little pricey but it's a fantastic guide, very comprehensive, photos, maps, and lots of extra info.
Love the Creature Wall for singel pitch 5.8-5.10
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thedesertnomad
May 23, 2003, 10:48 PM
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Well... if you haven't left already... lol finally I see someone mentioned Poke-O-Moonshine... I used to love that place... never too crowded, though the last time I went there were several route and cliff closures due to Perrigren Falcoln nesting. Great simple approach right from a cheap roadside campground. Whereever you end up in the Daks... I am sure you will have an awesome time.
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