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camming only two lobes
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brogan


Jan 5, 2002, 9:47 AM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2001
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camming only two lobes
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When you only use half of the lobes you only have half of the holding power. So if it is a small cam and it can only hold 8Kn then you will only have 4Kn of holding strength. that workd out to 2400 pounds of pull ruffly. Somtimes when I place pro I know it is only going to slow me down if I fall. To fix this problem I would buy som offset cams.
Brogan


bigwalling


Jan 5, 2002, 8:58 PM
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camming only two lobes [In reply to]
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I use camalots, metolius tcus, aliens, hybrid aliens and friends and have never found a poblem when there in a two lobe position. I haven't fallen on them though. I saw some where a cam that only had two lobes anyway. It was made by splitter gear or something like that. I have no clue hw good they work. They have them on www.shorelinemtn.com


passthepitonspete


Jan 11, 2002, 12:03 AM
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camming only two lobes [In reply to]
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Never fallen on one.

Have aided on two lobes lots of times.

It works.


apollodorus


Feb 18, 2002, 9:08 PM
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A two cam placement is probably NOT going to have half the strength of a four-cam placement due to asymmetric loading of the stem and axle. Also, a two-cam placement is inherently less stable, because the stem wants to rotate in toward the cams, and they want to rotate out.


passthepitonspete


Feb 19, 2002, 9:40 AM
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I concur.

A two-cam placement is substantially weaker than a four-cam placement, and suspect at best.


krustyklimber


Mar 1, 2002, 10:11 PM
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Brogan, what's up with your math? 4kn = 2400lbs?

One kilo-newton (kn) is equal to approx. 225lbs, so 4kn is probably closer to 500lbs. An amount of force that's easy for even a little guy like me to make.

I do agree that most two cam placements, though they add to the Pucker Factor, are plenty good for aiding, just don't go huckin' yourself on em'.

Jeff

P.S. Duh, how stupid am I? Sorry about that Brogan, I geuss my math isn't much better!
4kn, at 225lbs x 4 = 900lbs, probably alot higher than it would actually hold.



[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-03-02 13:17 ]


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