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shivers86
May 8, 2003, 8:36 PM
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The Flash will be alot more sensitive than the Phenix. It has a thinner more sensitive mid-sole. I'm not sure how they compare in size.
I have the sharks and so far I love them. They are Very sensitive and stick on anything. The last is very narrow, narrower than the other models I think. I wear a size 9 or 9.5. I bought size 8.5 in the sharks and they feel pretty comfy. Almost too comfy, I think I could have bought a half-size smaller although it may have been slightly painful. I suggest you try them on before you buy them. When you wear them the rubber around the top loosens up a bit and forms to your foot quite nicely but it doesn't stay that way. After you take them off for a while they cool down go back to normal. The rubber is really sticky but after wearing them in the gym for about a month I'm seeing notable signs of wear. The perimeter of harder rubber is getting really close to the softer rubber. Heel hooking is superior.
All in all I love these shoes and at $79 you can't get a better deal.
i hope this helps
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collegekid
May 8, 2003, 8:51 PM
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hmmm low angle crappy smearing......
they definitely work on smears involving most of the foot.
I haven't tried too many toe-smearing sort of things yet, but from what i have done, they are comparable with the anasazis.
Last sunday, i was working a problem involving a micro-dish smear thing..(for s.d. people, it was the 11+ on no hands boulder at santee). I didn't have time to get the problem, but the shoes were doing decently. The "hard" outer portion of the dual density sole is not really that hard at all.
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cracklover
May 8, 2003, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: i've smeared with the mugens on overhanging rumney schist. you get as much surface area on the rock with the hard edge, because the softer part sort of bulges out and sticks like glue. incredibly good smearing.
Hmm, I thought my post was clear, but I guess not. The kind of smearing I'm talking about you can't do at rumney (at least, I've never seen it). I mean like 5.10 slab smearing. Like at Whitehorse, or Red Rock (in Gloucester, MA, not Nevada). When there's no handholds at all, and I'm trying to do a high step into a vague little dish, I want my shoes to melt into to the rock like over-ripe cheese on a hot day. Okay, maybe that analogy was a bit gothic, but my point is that I fear that a hard edge would keep them from bending enough.
GO
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pico23
May 9, 2003, 3:54 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: i've smeared with the mugens on overhanging rumney schist. you get as much surface area on the rock with the hard edge, because the softer part sort of bulges out and sticks like glue. incredibly good smearing. Hmm, I thought my post was clear, but I guess not. The kind of smearing I'm talking about you can't do at rumney (at least, I've never seen it). I mean like 5.10 slab smearing. Like at Whitehorse, or Red Rock (in Gloucester, MA, not Nevada). When there's no handholds at all, and I'm trying to do a high step into a vague little dish, I want my shoes to melt into to the rock like over-ripe cheese on a hot day. Okay, maybe that analogy was a bit gothic, but my point is that I fear that a hard edge would keep them from bending enough. GO
If I am correct the hard rubber on the edges, is the same as the rubber on the Phoenix entire sole (#5 compound). This rubber is super soft and super grippy. The smearing rubber on the dual compound is #3 I think and the edging is #5. Supposedly #5 is grippier then C4 and that seems to be the consensus. If the #5 is C4 sticky then you would have to think the sticky #3 smearing section IS REALLY STICKY. Only having the Phoenix I can say they are really sticky. They make my Vibram XSV (which I like a lot and will continue to use on my Mythos when I get the Mythos resoled) almost seem like Boreals crappy rubber.
Thanks for info on the flash BTW I was kind of interested in a more sensitive Mad Rock shoe since that is the one negative I have so far with the phoenix.
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climb4life
May 9, 2003, 4:45 AM
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i don't want to read the entire post. but i will make this simple. my partner have madrock....forget tge brand. the laces one. he loves it but sole wears out fast. he have had it for three weeks and already showing signs of wear and tear, and already have a small tear in it. but he loves how it fit and stuff. it's cheap and good. i would recommend it for beginner's shoes.
that's all i want to say
climb in
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taraus_de_bull
May 9, 2003, 5:06 AM
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anyone know any stores that carry them???
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crack_climber
May 9, 2003, 5:10 AM
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I bought mine online @ http://www.shorelinemtn.com great service....as far as stores that carry them go to http://www.madrockshoes.com/html/where_to_buy.html There is a place where you can select dealers by state.
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duskerhu
May 9, 2003, 5:37 AM
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Check this thread when you have a minute...
duskerhu
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robbovius
May 16, 2003, 1:36 PM
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well, the pair of Mad Rock Flash I ordered last week (from Acme Climbing ) showed up yesterday. I'd bought US size 9.5 and generally take a 10.5 street shoe. after opening the box I took one look and said "There's no WAY I'm gonne get my feet into those!" well that wasnt' exactly true, because I was able to jam my feet in, with much swearing and wrestling, but they hurt so bad I couldn't walk. There's no way I could climb in them, I couldn't bend my toes at all...
So thery're going back to be exchanged for a pair in size 10.5.
I will say this about the rubber: I stood up after putting them on and shuffled around in excrutiating painfor a couple minutes, and after I took them off, I noticed that the ruber on the soles had picked up all sorts of tiny bits of sand and crap that was on the kitchen flood and got embedded in the rubber. Seem very sticky...my 5.10s with stealth C4 dont' do that.
I'll let you al know how acme's exchange policy works.
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superbum
May 19, 2003, 10:51 PM
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Climb Max (www.climbaxe.com) in Portland and Next Adventure in Portland as well...
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gogglyminotaur
May 19, 2003, 11:49 PM
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having some money just lying around i decided to order some madrocks sharks from acmeclimbing.com
and that was two weeks ago, and they are still not here! :twisted:
though i also orderd a mat . I sit out side and watch the ups truck drive by, everyday.
Has anyone else ordered from acmeclimbing and had to wait a ridicious amount of time?
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geckoee
May 20, 2003, 2:16 AM
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In reply to: Has anyone else ordered from acmeclimbing and had to wait a ridicious amount of time?
I ordered a rope, passive pro, beiners, and webbing. It all came in about a week. Call them, they should give you a tracking number.
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robbovius
May 20, 2003, 6:42 PM
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well, I ain't gettin a real good feeling today...
I e-mailed Acme (vertigo industries in Spokane WA) last thursday when MY Flash showed up, and said I wanted to send them back to exchange them and should I send them to anybody's attention.. but no reply as of last friday...
SO I tried to call friday and got a voicemail answering machine that said leave a message, but since i'd already sent the e-mail, I figured I didn't need to leave a message...
yesterday I packaged up the shoes and sent 'em back priority mail with a copy of the invoice and a letter asking to exchange them for a pair of 10.5s, and figured I'd call but all I got was ringing, no pick up and no voicemail answering machine...
today same thing, nobody home, no way to leave a message and no replying e-mail to my message sent last thursday...
and my shoes are in transit from Milford MA to Spokane...
damn!
anybody live near 1314 S Grand Blvd. in spokane WA, maybe knock on the door & see if the lights are on? Or if the place is cleared out?
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data118
May 20, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Damn, I just ordered the Flash from them last week. You should've sent the 9.5 my way; I would've bought them from ya. Anyway, you get a freebie (quick draw, or hms biner, or chalk bag, etc.) when you buy Madrocks from Acme. But I guess you pay the price for slow unresponsive service.
Gearexpress Rules!
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mccmt05
May 20, 2003, 7:43 PM
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I have a pair of Mad Rock Phoenix and I love them. I'm with basically everyone here that some sensitivity is compromised, but the rubber sticks like crazy. For as cheap as they are, they are a very EXCELLENT buy and I would recommend it to anyone.
For as where to buy them I got mine on-line at acme climbing and like everyone else it took forever :x I ordered the shoes in a package deal but I think u can buy the shoes individually.
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curt
May 20, 2003, 7:55 PM
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In reply to: Climb Max (www.climbaxe.com) in Portland and Next Adventure in Portland as well...
I have ordered mine from these guys in the past (climbaxe, that is) and there is NO problem. They e-mail you an acknowledgement of your order, and tell you how to track your shipment. Great service--I think. Also, they are right next door to the Madrock offices in Portland, so they have good access to inventory.
Curt
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michhiker
May 20, 2003, 7:55 PM
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Tell me about it 13 days so far....and waiting...I should have known better!
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robbovius
May 21, 2003, 1:26 AM
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In reply to: Damn, I just ordered the Flash from them last week. You should've sent the 9.5 my way; I would've bought them from ya. Anyway, you get a freebie (quick draw, or hms biner, or chalk bag, etc.) when you buy Madrocks from Acme. But I guess you pay the price for slow unresponsive service. Gearexpress Rules!
LOL! had I but known!
yeah I got a Fader Catch belay device, but I don't care for it. It really doesn't lower off smoothly at all. I felt bad, I was belaying some guy today I was sharing a rope with and lowering off was all stops and starts. I'll admit the thing locks off solid, but maybe TOO solid....it pissed me off, made me look like a goober. Remind me to hang that thing off my key ring for a conversation piece. The ATC is a much smoother device.
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veganclimbr
May 21, 2003, 7:17 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 47
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Sorry if this has been discussed already but what is everyones opinions on The Mad Rock Mugen's? I have the Anasazi velcros right now and their a great shoe yet quite pricey. How do these compare?
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rwaltermyer
May 21, 2003, 12:44 PM
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i think the biggest hurdle for me would not being able to try them on and get a feel for what they call do....i tried on tons of shoes for my second (and latest) climbing shoe purchase, and I can't see compromising the way they fit or feel for price. I don't care if they cost fifty bucks, IF they suck (which I'm not saying they do) then thats a waste in my opinion. Of course, I don't "have money lying around"....so maybe that's why.
randy
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