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a-dog
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May 20, 2003, 9:24 PM
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People are always talking about how good of an aid carabiner this is. Even the company itself says it was designed for aid. I was just wondering if it would be ok to use for trad. They are just as strong, lighter, and larger than most, making them very easy to use, rack, and clip. Does anybody use these biners for trad climbing? Or should I consider other ones for trad use?
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mbond
May 20, 2003, 9:32 PM
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I use neutrinos for trad, and I have not heard or experienced any compelling reason not to. I'd imagine that ovalwires would be just fine too.
If anyone knows otherwise, please do tell.
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illimaniman
May 20, 2003, 9:51 PM
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I've heard you shouldn't clip into wire-slung stuff (nuts) with wiregates, because they can work their way apart. But wiregates should be great for the rope end of any draws.
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vegastradguy
May 20, 2003, 11:18 PM
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um, yes they are fine for trad. in fact, they are quite excellent.
i would second the notion to not clip them onto wired gear, i've lost a couple of stoppers to a wiregate, they just tend to work out under the gate. there was a discussion on it here a while back.
i use them on the rope end of all my slings, and LOVE THEM. light, same footprint as my ovals and clip like a dream. heck, you can even clip them inverted because there is so little resistance on the gate.
i'm slowly replacing a good deal of my rope end biners with these...i leave my ovals on my gear, but that's just me.
the BD Ovalwire- live it, love it, clip it. :P
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dlintz
May 21, 2003, 1:45 AM
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I was climbing in Eldo Canyon last week, leading with my friend's trad rack with the stoppers racked on Ovalwires. 3 times I had a stopper mysteriously pop off the biner in the first pitch. WTF?!! Given that I couldn't explain how they kept coming off I would use them only on the rope end of a sling/draw/runner.
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one900johnnyk
May 21, 2003, 1:53 AM
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i think it's just b/c w/wiregates the narrow wire of the stoppers can get right up next to it and sit nicely and then be easily pulled down through the gate... i wouldn't rack with them but i don't think clipping them into pro would be that bad... but hell if i'm gonna do it now. haha
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vtposer
May 21, 2003, 2:05 AM
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THey rule!
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pico23
May 21, 2003, 3:46 AM
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Yes...and you might consider the Omega Doval. The BD is just a inferior knockoff (seriously). Don't know what this business is about not using them on the gear end but I *think* it is false. I'd love to find out though as I could be dead since I use Dovals on the gear end and JC7 wiregates on the rope end. Omega states either can be used on either end of the gear/rope. Wiregates are newer technology lighter, less complex, stronger. I'm almost done with replacing non wire gates on my rack.
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slhappy
May 21, 2003, 4:02 AM
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these oval rule on bith sides of the sling. slowly replacing my rack with the goods. They beat the Doval because of thier size...and more versitle. Great for alpine also...get some!
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brutusofwyde
May 21, 2003, 6:17 PM
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BD ovalwires suck.
WAY too heavy for aid.
Way too heavy for much of anything else.
If you don't believe me, hold up 130 Neutrinos in one hand, and 130 ovalwires in the other.
The only oval that comes close to the Neutrino is the Doval.
neutrinos and Dovals ROCK!
Brutus
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pico23
May 22, 2003, 3:58 AM
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In reply to: BD ovalwires suck. WAY too heavy for aid. Way too heavy for much of anything else. If you don't believe me, hold up 130 Neutrinos in one hand, and 130 ovalwires in the other. The only oval that comes close to the Neutrino is the Doval. neutrinos and Dovals ROCK! Brutus
At least someone is looking at the weight as well. Functionally I don't see an advantage of one over the other but look at weight, strenght and value and the Doval is superior to the BD oval wire. But then most OP biners are better then the competition when you compare similar roled biners.
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jimdavis
May 28, 2003, 7:13 AM
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With all this business about wired gear working through a wire gate, it makes me think those DMM wirelock biners might be a really good thing. I need to start buying gear, and i was planning to buy mostly Dovals for now, but i guess i'll buy some Omega D's and Oval's too.
I wouldn't have thought about gear working out through the gate, but it seems very possible now that i think about it.
I wish Omega would come out with their own version of a Keylock. Who wouldn't love that? (besides Petzl that is)
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pico23
May 28, 2003, 7:02 PM
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In reply to: With all this business about wired gear working through a wire gate, it makes me think those DMM wirelock biners might be a really good thing. I need to start buying gear, and i was planning to buy mostly Dovals for now, but i guess i'll buy some Omega D's and Oval's too. I wouldn't have thought about gear working out through the gate, but it seems very possible now that i think about it. I wish Omega would come out with their own version of a Keylock. Who wouldn't love that? (besides Petzl that is)
Jim,
The Wirelock by DMM is awesome and it is one of my few OP biners that I rack. I use it for nuts because it is lighter and about the same price as a peztl key lock but I also like the huge basket. I highly recommend it for racking nuts and other passive gear (like small tricams which can get stuck on the nose of a standard biner).
As far as the keylock design, Petzl didn't invent it. Kong did. You might want to check out Kong biners as a cheaper alternative to petzl. Personally, while I love petzl products I think their biners tend to be overpriced compared to the competition.
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