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epic_ed
May 21, 2003, 4:18 PM
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What the F?! There hasn't been any good spray, smack, or blind speculation on this forum in days. What, you guys all headed out to go climbing or something? :D
This place seems to get way slow around this time of the year...(sniff, sniff). I'm extremely jealous of how many of you knuckle-draggers are actually in the Valley climbing something right now. Bastards. I'll be there soon! (contributing siginificantly to the "knuckle-dragging" factor)
Ed
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mother_sheep
May 21, 2003, 4:34 PM
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Well, I could always start a post looking for beta on the Sheild and let everyone discuss how over my head it is and all the many reasons why a gumby like me shouldn't even try it and blah blah blood bath. hee heee
I heard from PTPP and it sounds like he's holding some of the visitors to this forum hostage in the Valley. Plus, I think Flamer and Piton are there too. I thought you were supposed to be there doing Zodiac???? Lucky bums!!!! 2 more weeks and I'll be out there too!
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hans
May 21, 2003, 4:46 PM
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Yeah, it has been pretty quiet. It sounded like a lot of people were going to be in the valley for the next few weeks.
Personally, I'm trying to finish school for the year, and then I'm hoping to get up there by the second week of June.
-Hans
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epic_ed
May 21, 2003, 4:47 PM
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Yep, the Shield is way over your head. "YEERRRRR GONNNNAAAA DIIEEEE!!!" I can't wait to shout that at someone from up high on El Cap.
I thought you were out there already? You flying?
Zodiac for me the third week of June. Clear the path for me. ;-)
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dsafanda
May 21, 2003, 4:50 PM
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Haven't you heard...the Valley is closed until further notice. I wouldn't bother coming out to Cali this season.
Did you go to Zion Ed? Too hot to get up anything?
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jerrygarcia
May 21, 2003, 4:51 PM
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In reply to: Well, I could always start a post looking for beta on the Sheild and let everyone discuss how over my head it is and all the many reasons why a gumby like me shouldn't even try it and blah blah blood bath. hee heee
Dewd, yer in wayyy over yer head. Take a class or go with someone who knows it. i've only been climbing for a day or so but I know if you ask questions on an internet forum you obviously aren't capable of doing it
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epic_ed
May 21, 2003, 4:59 PM
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We'll see this weekend. It's gonna be a scorcher. Spaceshot is definitely out, but hopefully Moonlight Buttress or Prodigal. Thanks again for the topos!
Ed
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mother_sheep
May 21, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Nope, still here. I'm driving straight through from Aspen, then flying back to Denver on the 15th.
I'm still not 100% sure on what routes we're doing. I'm pretty sure we're going up the Prow and maybe Snake Dike. Just the easier stuff on this trip for moi.
In reply to: Dewd, yer in wayyy over yer head. Take a class or go with someone who knows it. i've only been climbing for a day or so but I know if you ask questions on an internet forum you obviously aren't capable of doing it
That's Dewdette to you wavygravy!!!
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jerrygarcia
May 21, 2003, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: That's Dewdette to you wavygravy!!!
Muh bad, sorry grrrrrllll. Im just an old washed up hippy.
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atg200
May 21, 2003, 5:38 PM
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i'm still bumming over having most of my rack stolen. no aid climbing for me until i get it replenished.
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epic_ed
May 21, 2003, 5:43 PM
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No luck with recovering any of it yet? Dude, I feel for ya.
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atg200
May 21, 2003, 5:50 PM
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no, i'm pretty much screwed. i went out and started buying replacement gear last night. i am going to cry when i get my credit card statement next month.
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climbingcowboy
May 21, 2003, 6:18 PM
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TWO weeks Ed and I'll se you there man Icant wait to be outta here and up there flailing on something but getting up any way, albiet painfully.
Atg that blows i know how feel as far as the credit card statment just got mine it wasnt pretty, the wife wasnt all that excited either. :lol:
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iamthewallress
May 21, 2003, 10:20 PM
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Sorry, Ed. Been in the Valley.
:P
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epic_ed
May 21, 2003, 10:23 PM
Post #15 of 22
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Rub it in...
Any good news to report, Mel?
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iamthewallress
May 21, 2003, 11:06 PM
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Nothing other than a really nice four day weekend climbing with my boyfriend...I got to tick off a few classic free climbs that have been on my list for a while and even bled in a couple of ow's. I got off easy at my Tuesday date in Federal traffic court, and then raised my glass with friends that evening to celebrate the life of Jose Pereyra. We are so lucky to be able to do what we do...
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bigwalling
May 22, 2003, 1:26 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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In reply to: Well, I could always start a post looking for beta on the Sheild and let everyone discuss how over my head it is and all the many reasons why a gumby like me shouldn't even try it and blah blah blood bath. hee heee
You'll never know unless you try it. Most really good climbers will tell you to at least try it. Only fools sit around believing all the bullshit the people around hear tell them. But from the sounds of it you aren't one of them.
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atg200
May 22, 2003, 2:21 AM
Post #18 of 22
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and you know that from your extensive wall experience bigwalling? thankfully tracy is smart enough to know the shield is not exactly a good next step from touchstone, and was just making a joke.
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bigwalling
May 22, 2003, 2:55 AM
Post #19 of 22
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Yes, I listened to people who told me I was going to fail. I've only attempted one true wall. With a person I had never met and never even exchanged any form of communication. Well we bailed due to an injury(mine!). I'm still convinced I could get up it if we would have stayed on route(damn the dark!).
I'm sure if she really wanted to get up the sheild she could! It's just way long(or at least from the looks of the topo)!
You can always try it. If it's too hard go down. It will always be there for another day. Remember Chris Mac? He failed on some stuff and then sent Zenyatta with a guy. Why joke about something that is possible? The sooner you think you can do it, the sooner you will do it.
I just don't want people to make the same mistakes I made. Fear can be your best freind, just don't let it become your worst friend.
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atg200
May 22, 2003, 3:08 AM
Post #20 of 22
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i'm not ragging on you in this post tracy - you know i respect you.
bigwalling - someone who has gotten up one very short/easy grade IV wall with really easy clean stonker C1 aid should get on a *really* long grade VI with nailing up high? please tell me you are joking.
i know a grand total of 1 guy who got up a for real grade VI on el cap for his first route, and he is an animal. i know legions who bailed - one of them being me, so this is also from personal experience. walk before you run.
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lambone
May 22, 2003, 3:18 AM
Post #21 of 22
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Bigwalling,
One- It's pretty damn hard/scary getting off the Shield headwall. If the climbing is too hard, then you are likely to kill yourself trying to bail.
Two-Newbies shouldn't get on the Shield because they will overdrive every pin and desicrate the stellar crack even further. I speak from experience.
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bigwalling
May 22, 2003, 3:23 AM
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In reply to: i'm not ragging on you in this post tracy - you know i respect you. bigwalling - someone who has gotten up one very short/easy grade IV wall with really easy clean stonker C1 aid should get on a *really* long grade VI with nailing up high? please tell me you are joking. i know a grand total of 1 guy who got up a for real grade VI on el cap for his first route, and he is an animal. i know legions who bailed - one of them being me, so this is also from personal experience. walk before you run.
I know who you are reffering to(i think). He's a bad ass! I was thinking about trying it. That person siad he would show me some things to make life easier if I wanted. But my plans have changed. That is truely running! I still think I could do it. But I doubt I'll ever find out if I was really worthy.
I don't know anything about Touchstone! Clipping fixed heads is scary I guess. But still not too bad. Most heads are pretty bomber, same goes for pins. I've jumped at least a full vertical foot testing #2 heads when I learned how to place them. Doing the Sheild would be pretty crazy for a first .
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