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Partner phylp


May 21, 2003, 10:10 AM
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June weather and access to williamson rock  (North_America: United_States: California: Los_Angeles_County: Williamson_Rock)
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Hi All- I'm hoping to finally make it down from the SF Bay Area to do a first time visit to Williamson some time in June or July.
Questions:
1. What will the weather be like (generally) in early June?
2. What's the best way to get there from the Bay Area? It looks like it would be I-5, I-14, the Pearblossom cutover to Rt 138, and then either "N4" to Big Pines, or 138 to route 2.
3. Any campground with showers nearby? Is June too early for a wimpy girl who hates to camp in the cold?
4. What about nearby cheap motels? (one of my possible partners won't camp.)
5. Are there any access difficulties into the cliffs if your accompanied by a large dog? (different partner - never travels without dog)
I've got my route list kindly prepared by Jay last year so I'm all set there!
Thanks, Phyl


hasbeen


May 21, 2003, 10:33 AM
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It's hard to believe someone would come all the way down here JUST to go to Williamson, but whatever floats your boat. It is a nice crag, however.

Your travel route is fine. You can also go 5 to 210 east to Pasadena and get off on the 2, Angeles Forest Highway.

Don't buy and Adventure Pass and throw away the tickets. When you pay for it's a vote for a "voluntary" program, which we are being bamboozled into supporting. However, since climbers know this and don't pay, the rangers rarely ticket climbing parking spots anymore (or mtn biking spots). Hmmm, sound like a "public supported program" to you? Anyway, tickets arent' enforced because they are "voluntary", even though it doesn't say so on the ticket. If a ranger asks you to pay, politely refuse and tell them you don't support the program. Hey, I'm not against paying 30 bucks a year for the wilderness. It's a bargain. But I already pay (taxes) and if they want to use that money to build bombs or whatever, I don't want to pay again. Besides, the only thing the money is doing is adding more law enforcement officers, which just isn't necessary.

Okay, you can't legally camp in the Williamson area but you really CAN. Remember that the rangers give this place a miss. I've camped there many times, as we used to do post climbing parties that would force mass camping. Never were hassled. There is room for a bunch of cars, so no worries. Great dog crag, provided your dog is nimble, as the downclimb is an issue for some. If you dog doesn't know about rattlesnakes, teach em somehow, as they are plentiful (no person or dog has been bitten, however, as these guys are polite and rattle when you bug em).

June is great. Weather will be perfect. It's a shady afternoon cliff so bring a sweater, no matter what morning temps are like.

Have fun!


hasbeen


May 21, 2003, 10:36 AM
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oops, showers...

I don't the the local campgrounds have showers, but there is a great swimming pool in the creek just east of the crag. You might be able to talk Newcomb's Ranch into selling you a shower. I know they have some. Or, you're certain to meet someone at the crag that will offer use of theirs, if you don't mind driving into the city.

BTW, no real stores exist on the mountain, so buy your stuff before you head up.


jt512


May 21, 2003, 10:42 AM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hi All- I'm hoping to finally make it down from the SF Bay Area to do a first time visit to Williamson some time in June or July.
Questions:
1. What will the weather be like (generally) in early June?

Probably quite good for climbing, especially in the afternoons. 95% of the routes are in the sun in the morning, which makes them hot and a bit slick, and causes the holds to become invisible, for some reason.

In reply to:
3. Any campground with showers nearby? Is June too early for a wimpy girl who hates to camp in the cold?

The nearest campground, Buckhorn, is 3 mi. west on Hwy 2. It has water faucets, but no showers. To the best of my knowledge, there are no showers at any nearby campgrounds. Some climbers car camp in the Wmson parking lot, as well, though I'm not sure if this is entirely kosher.

I'd guess that the lows will be in the 40s to 50s at night.

In reply to:
4. What about nearby cheap motels? (one of my possible partners won't camp.)

The closest motels are in Wrightwood, about 25 minutes away. They are not particularly cheap: about $50 a night, as I understand it. You'd probably have to drive about an hour, to San Bernardino, to get cheaper accommodations.

In reply to:
5. Are there any access difficulties into the cliffs if your accompanied by a large dog? (different partner - never travels without dog)

Quite possibly, if the dog is not experienced with approaches. The approach to Wmson is probably 5.1 slab in spots. Inexperienced dogs (and humans) find it difficult.

-Jay


cloudbreak


May 21, 2003, 10:42 AM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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$30 a year isn't that big of a price to pay for forest usage. I seriously doubt that this money is used to make bombs....seriously!

Everything has a price, but most of us want it for free.


murf


May 21, 2003, 10:48 AM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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I can't picture anyone travelling to Williamson from SF. ITS NOT THAT NICE! Go somewhere, anywhere else. Sure its fun for local cranking, but a destination crag it ain't.

Murf


hasbeen


May 21, 2003, 11:16 AM
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You can only say that because you don't live in the Bay Area, where a place like Williamson probably feels like the Verdon Gorge. Of course, they do have closer good places, like Yosemite, but you can't climb the same places forever.

30 bucks isn't a lot, and I'd have no problem paying if it wasn't for the politics. Essentially, it's a lowest common denominator issue. We et screwed because we allow it. We already pay for this. That why we pay taxes and is part of the founding principals of this country (Teddy Roosevelt would be aghast). What do we get for this, really, is more law enforcement so they can write more tickets. Essentailly, the program pays for people to ticket us. Sound like a good deal now? Sure, they SAY it's for other things, but have you seen any imporvements, like perhaps an outhouse in the Williamson lot (which has been lobbied for)?

On one stretch of road I hadn't seen a law enforcement officer in 10 years, and rarely another car for that matter. Now, I see one every time I drive it. It's not more crowded. There still aren't other people there. But we do pay someone to drive back and forth on an empty road in hopes of writing a ticket or two a day. If you were employing this person, would you consider this a good usage of time?


jt512


May 21, 2003, 11:29 AM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I can't picture anyone travelling to Williamson from SF. ITS NOT THAT NICE! Go somewhere, anywhere else. Sure its fun for local cranking, but a destination crag it ain't.

Murf

Options for summer sport climbing are pretty limited on the West Coast. Where else would you recommend? The hottie Vegas limestone crags are probably not worth a road trip unless you are solid at mid-5.12,

-Jay


cloudbreak


May 21, 2003, 11:35 AM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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In reply to:
30 bucks isn't a lot, and I'd have no problem paying if it wasn't for the politics. Essentially, it's a lowest common denominator issue. We et screwed because we allow it. We already pay for this. That why we pay taxes and is part of the founding principals of this country (Teddy Roosevelt would be aghast). What do we get for this, really, is more law enforcement so they can write more tickets. Essentailly, the program pays for people to ticket us. Sound like a good deal now? Sure, they SAY it's for other things, but have you seen any imporvements, like perhaps an outhouse in the Williamson lot (which has been lobbied for)?

On one stretch of road I hadn't seen a law enforcement officer in 10 years, and rarely another car for that matter. Now, I see one every time I drive it. It's not more crowded. There still aren't other people there. But we do pay someone to drive back and forth on an empty road in hopes of writing a ticket or two a day. If you were employing this person, would you consider this a good usage of time?

I just quit now, cause it sounds like you've got it all figured out..... :roll:


fredbob


May 21, 2003, 12:35 PM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I can't picture anyone travelling to Williamson from SF. ITS NOT THAT NICE! Go somewhere, anywhere else. Sure its fun for local cranking, but a destination crag it ain't.

Murf

I second that thought!

And actually there are a number of far closer spots to SF to crank sport routes.

If the weather is hot, the crack of noon start is best as the crag is shady in the afternoon. Best advise? Climb mid-week and avoid the hordes that infest the crag.


Partner artm


May 21, 2003, 12:54 PM
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adventure pass [In reply to]
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Apparently if you possess the National Parks Pass and have the Golden Eagle Hologram you do not need to purchase the Adventure pass
see the attached link from the national forest adventure pass home homepagege/options
http://66.92.57.43/pass_options.htm


hasbeen


May 21, 2003, 12:58 PM
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Cool, thanks!

They didn't used to accept this. I had it out with them a long while back about it. Apparently, I wasn't the only one.

The Golden Eagle is a pass that most climber's in the US can't live without, especially anyone close to Yosemite.


Partner phylp


May 21, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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Thanks for all the beta, everyone!

As to why I would travel from the Bay area to go to Williamson, it's just to go somewhere new. I've been climbing in the West for a long time (recently -when it was pouring rain outside and I was pining to climb outside again- I counted how many routes I've done in the Valley/Meadows (close to 200 not counting all the repeats) and the East side/Owen's Gorge/mammoth area (got sick of counting at 200). Since my absolutely favorite aspect of climbing is onsighting, it's really fun to go once in a while to a new crag. Also, it's granite, right? My favorite rock...

If it all comes together to get down there, I'll put up another post and maybe run into some of you down there.

Phyl


halepierce


May 21, 2003, 5:05 PM
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Re: June weather and access to williamson rock [In reply to]
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Yesterday (5/20/03) I went with some friends to Williamson Rock through the east entrance (138 to 2) and was thwarted by a ROAD CLOSED gate 16 miles from our destination. Needless to say, it sucked. We tried to interrogate a less than helpful construction worker as to how long the closure would be in effect, gaining little more than "I don't know" for every question we asked. However, we did find out that the construction area was 15 miles long which, if my math is correct, would leave Williamson open from the west entrance by way of La Canada. I would however, check for any possible road closures before going.


jt512


May 21, 2003, 5:19 PM
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In reply to:
Yesterday (5/20/03) I went with some friends to Williamson Rock through the east entrance (138 to 2) and was thwarted by a ROAD CLOSED gate 16 miles from our destination. Needless to say, it sucked. We tried to interrogate a less than helpful construction worker as to how long the closure would be in effect, gaining little more than "I don't know" for every question we asked. However, we did find out that the construction area was 15 miles long which, if my math is correct, would leave Williamson open from the west entrance by way of La Canada. I would however, check for any possible road closures before going.

Wmson is accessible via Hwy 2 from the west. Caltrans generally has the hwy open from the east by Memorial Day weekend, so check their website for updates.

-Jay


climber1


May 21, 2003, 9:59 PM
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[quote="jt512]

The approach to Wmson is probably 5.1 slab in spots.
-Jaynot if you take the slightly longer, but more scenic trail.


theironmunk


May 21, 2003, 10:08 PM
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it would have been nice to have gotten this post yesterday... lol me and a coupla buddies tried to go out there today and we talked to the same construction worker "there were a couple guys out here yesterday looking for william's rock they had that same book" we tried to talk him, into letting us go anyway but he wouldnt so we went back and climbed that tower right by mtn high.


fredbob


May 22, 2003, 5:14 PM
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In reply to:
Also, it's granite, right? My favorite rock...

Phyl

Very fractured granite; The San Gabriel Mts. are one of the most geologically active range in the US, which is why the rock is not nice and solid like Yosemite, Tahquitz, Meadows, etc. But once the loose stuff is cleaned, it leaves a pretty climbable surface. But hold continue to break off...


jt512


May 22, 2003, 8:43 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

The approach to Wmson is probably 5.1 slab in spots.
-Jay
not if you take the slightly longer, but more scenic trail.

Isn't that trail more like 4 times as long, involve some bushwhacking, easy to get lost on, and still involve some slabs that might be hard for an unaccustomed dog?

-Jay


climber1


May 22, 2003, 10:03 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:

The approach to Wmson is probably 5.1 slab in spots.
-Jay
not if you take the slightly longer, but more scenic trail.

Isn't that trail more like 4 times as long, involve some bushwhacking, easy to get lost on, and still involve some slabs that might be hard for an unaccustomed dog?

-Jay
no,
it is a nice class 1 trail the whole way.


kalcario


May 22, 2003, 10:11 PM
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*Options for summer sport climbing are pretty limited on the West Coast. Where else would you recommend?*

Uh, Donner Summit, The Leap/Sugarloaf, Tuolumne, the Needles...all closer to the Bay and better than Willi...


moabbeth


May 22, 2003, 10:33 PM
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Aww phylp, SKIP that outdoor gym that is Williamson and spend the extra hour to go up to Suicide. It's above Idyllwild across from Tahquitz . While the area is trad for the most part, Suicide has some bolted routes on FAR better quality granite that are more fun and challenging than anything at Williamson. Don't get me wrong, I learned how to sport climb up at Williamson, it does serve a purpose. But once you graduate from Williamson you discover there are SO many better places to climb in Socal than Williamson. If you're gonna make that long drive, at least make it worthwhile where you'll have fun and still be challenged a bit.


jt512


May 23, 2003, 9:36 AM
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*Options for summer sport climbing are pretty limited on the West Coast. Where else would you recommend?*

Uh, Donner Summit, The Leap/Sugarloaf, Tuolumne, the Needles...all closer to the Bay and better than Willi...

I think the point is that she wants to go some place new to her.

-Jay


jt512


May 23, 2003, 9:44 AM
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Aww phylp, SKIP that outdoor gym that is Williamson and spend the extra hour to go up to Suicide. It's above Idyllwild across from Tahquitz . While the area is trad for the most part, Suicide has some bolted routes on FAR better quality granite that are more fun and challenging than anything at Williamson. Don't get me wrong, I learned how to sport climb up at Williamson, it does serve a purpose. But once you graduate from Williamson you discover there are SO many better places to climb in Socal than Williamson. If you're gonna make that long drive, at least make it worthwhile where you'll have fun and still be challenged a bit.

Uh, not to knock Suicide, it is a wonderful trad area. But as sport climbing goes, it is a low-angle wasteland. Clark Mountain is where you go after you graduate from Williamson. Suicide is where you go if you did your undergrad at Big Rock.

-Jay


pbjosh


May 23, 2003, 10:21 AM
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Common Jay, you lead 5.12 on bolts, right? I'd like to see you come on over to Suicide and try your hand. I'm sure the Suicide 12 climbers could do pretty decent on .12 at Williamson...

josh

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