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Plan of attack
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simzboardr


May 21, 2003, 7:36 PM
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Plan of attack
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Here is my issue. I fly into CA, get to the valley at like 2pm, and then have that day and the next four full days to climb the nose. Any suggestions on how we should spend our time with the climb.


epic_ed


May 21, 2003, 7:52 PM
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Start humping gear up to the base of the climb and take a number. You might actually get started about the second or third day. Dude, do you really have only four full days in the Valley? We might need to bring up that "odds of bailing" thread again. I hate to be a wet blanket, but in addition to the heat, you're going to be severely challenged by your time frame.

Ed


bigwalling


May 21, 2003, 7:56 PM
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Send it dude!


lambone


May 21, 2003, 8:10 PM
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You should prbly sleep outside the park rather then drive in at 2am. Even if you were going to bivi illeagaly (I have never done that :wink: ) you at least want to get the food out of your car first. This will be a chalange since it is your fist time there and you don't know where the boxes are...

Next morning first spend at least 30 minutes sitting in the meadow comtompalting what you are getting yourself into. Save yourelf the grieve and go to the trunk to pull out some beer and head to the river....

Or start fixing to Sickle, rap down and rest.

Next morning hump the pig up, haul and get as far as you can. Then make a decision, bail or climb your ass off.

Just be warned that getting off in the dark is not easy if you don't know the way. You'd be wise to bivi again if you top out late in the evening. If you don't bail and finish the route (nice job), you are almost 100% gauranteed to miss your flight.

If you don't make it to Sickle on the first day, forget it and go to plan B. Most likeley you won't because it won't be your turn yet, or you will really piss someone off who has been waiting. Don't expect them to be friendly when they pass you.

You are either way motivated, way foolish, or one hell of a troller. If you are for real then I wish you the best. But don't let a packed agenda keep you from appreciating the beauty of the valley.


atg200


May 21, 2003, 8:12 PM
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HAHAHAHAHA! i'll double my $50 to a $100 on the bail bet.

do yourself a huge favor, and do the west face of the leaning tower instead. you might actually have a good time!

don't worry though, you won't have to wait in line in JULY! just crawl over everyone who has passed out from heat exhaustion.


bigwalling


May 21, 2003, 8:29 PM
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In reply to:
HAHAHAHAHA! i'll double my $50 to a $100 on the bail bet.

do yourself a huge favor, and do the west face of the leaning tower instead. you might actually have a good time!

don't worry though, you won't have to wait in line in JULY! just crawl over everyone who has passed out from heat exhaustion.

Despite what I've said in other threads lately. I agree with him. Do the tower. You will be way stoked no matter what wall you get up. Don't let you ego get in the way. Just because you said you were going to do the Nose doesn;t mean you still have to try and go through. The tower is hella steep so you would have lots of fun. Of couse I really have no clue what the hell I'm talking about.


lambone


May 21, 2003, 8:37 PM
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no, you are exactly right. The LT is also in the shade until late afternoon.


wonderbread


May 21, 2003, 9:31 PM
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OK dude, this time frame puts a whole new spin on things. First off how are you getting from the airport to the valley? In order to stand any chance at all you better have a car. Have you planned for shopping yet? What about water bottles and filling them? The bus does not go to El Cap and there is no way you will be even slightly as efficient as you need to be trying to hitch around. Damn B, this puts a whole new twist in. I'm rooting for you, but you're making it tough, especially becuase of the sound of things you are planning on aiding a lot. OK, plans-arrive at 2 with climbing gear out and ready, hike on up and fix to Sickle. Rap, get dinner, go shopping, fill water bottles(you can't get 2 liter bottles in the valley!). Go to camp four, pack and get some sleep. Wake up early and jug your ropes and head for El Cap Tower. If you have time and energy, fix the next 2 pitches. Go for camp 5 the next day. And the top the following. Come on down and head out. This also allows for an extra day on the wall if you're going slow. But, jeez man, extend that ticket a couple days longer and you'll stand a much better chance.


simzboardr


May 22, 2003, 4:17 AM
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i can't extend the time frame at all....its set in stone i know it sucks but oh well... also day one is July 24th so im hoping the line wont be that long and i can get a good four day suntan lol..


timpanogos


May 22, 2003, 1:11 PM
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Last Monday night, I was bivied on top of Washington Column, looking down canyon at El Cap (after 3 days of climbing)- elevation wise - we were about 1/2 way up El Cap!


With setup, approach, climb, descent, clean up and back to airport - you will barely be able to do WF LT in the time you have given yourself.

30+ pitches of El Cap airport to airport - no way.


bandycoot


May 22, 2003, 1:25 PM
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I think that you are walking that fine line between determination and foolishness like a drunkard... sober up and do another wall man!


epic_ed


May 22, 2003, 2:19 PM
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This reminds me of some good advice about recognizing denial.

"If somone walks up and tells you that you have a 10 foot long, brown tail -- you can laugh it off as the ramblings of a nut case or a lunatic. If A DOZEN people walk up to you and admire your 10 foot long, brown tail -- you might want to turn around and take a look at it."

Dude, you might want to take a look at "it".


simzboardr


May 22, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Lets say i can fluently climb 5.10s....hows that cut down on the time frame.... last weekend i realize that i really hate aid climbing when i can free climb cause its sooooo much faster free, and im really pushing to reach that 5.10 5.11 trad bench mark


If i cant' onsigt 5.10s then i will be picking a new wall


flying_dutchman


May 22, 2003, 8:40 PM
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so where can we place a bet on bailing? i still got some money from student loans...


wonderbread


May 22, 2003, 8:49 PM
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OK, dude. If you try it I'm rooting hard for you, but unless you've got some sort of secret weapon, ie an experienced rope gun, you may want to heed some advice from the dudes around here. I'm not saying you can't do it, but it's going to be way tough. Seriously, consider something a bit shorter for your time frame. Perhaps the WFLT. Day 1 pull into the valley around 2. Spend the next two hours lifting your jaw off the ground, go shopping, fill water bottles, pack, etc. If you haven't done a wall you'll be way surprised how long it takes to pack. Day 2 finish packing, steal King Cobras from the store, and hike up to the base. Bivy at the base(in the forest) after fixing ropes across the 4th class and huffing the rack to the start of the route. Day 3, get up climb to Ahwanee, fix the next 2 pitches, bivy, and admire Leo's great work of freeing the thing. Day 4 Climb to the top and bivy, enjoy the beautiful view of the Captain and down your pilfered Cobras as the sun sets. Day 5 descend, crush your knees walking through the talus, get to the car, load up on caffienne, buy your mom a gift, and head to the airport. Consider it dude, getting up any wall on your first attempt is proud. If you need anymore specific beta for either route you can PM me.


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