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simzboardr
May 23, 2003, 4:00 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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I would like to thank everyone for all the sugestions. I know i have been a dick about a lot of the stuff thinking that im all tough. But honeslty with my time frame as small as it is. i don't think the nose is a good idea eithere for my first wall in 4 days in late July. So on that note... Leaning tower? Washingtons Column? Got any topos? Tips?
Im young, the nose is old, its not going anywhere, i can climb it later, oh well.
And uh, yea.... a good climb that not many bail off of... if im spending all this dough to get out there i don't wanna be kicked in the balls for bailing
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kixrox
May 23, 2003, 4:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2002
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chin up. chest out.
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epic_ed
May 23, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Nice job, Brah!
No one's been rooting against you, so I'm glad to see you're taking the feedback appropriately. For some of the same reasons (heat ans sun exposure) I'd stay away from the Column that time of year and hop on WF LT. Do the first four pitches two Awhanee and if you're feeling really ballsey, head straight up to do Wet Denim Daydream. The pitch off Awahnee is bonafide A3, and DFU. WF will be a nice accomplishment on its own. I think it will certainly allow you to enjoy your brief time in the Valley much better. Stop and soak it all up a little more the first time you're there. Hope you succeed.
Ed
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climbingcowboy
May 23, 2003, 5:03 AM
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Good call bro, I hope ya have fun and send something.
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dingus
May 23, 2003, 5:13 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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OK. You did it. And now you're wallowing in the aftermath. Ya got pluck dude, to make that admission. Now let me help you out with your next objective.
Keep it to yourself. Seriously. Sure, ask for beta on this or that route. Ask about bunches of them. But when you select your objective, goodgod man, have the sense to keep quiet about it.
Big wall climbing is hard enough without the added pressure of trying to perform for or against the expectations of others. By taking that stimulus out of the equation you eliminate one huge stress factor and that gnawing doubt that you are climbing for others (ie posing).
find a partner, pick your climb, and go do it. Or not. Don't feel obliged to tell the world you're gonna do X. Don't feel obliged to tell them when you succeed either, or when you fail. It's totally up to you.
But take some advice here my friend. You will thank yourself later.
Cheers,
DMT
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atg200
May 23, 2003, 2:17 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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people bail off everything in the valley. i think you'll get up the leaning tower though - i'll give you even odds on it as opposed to 300 to 1 odds on the nose. good luck, and this is a wise decision.
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bandycoot
May 23, 2003, 2:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Excellent choice. I looked at that as my first wall as well, but since I'll probably have more time than you I think that I'm going to take down Half Dome instead. Good luck, and if it's hot bring a little extra water since the hauling will be so easy! If the temperatures are truly EVIL climb a little at night since it's just aid climbing and try to rest during the day maybe... I've read a few trip reports where people were able to climb on that route at night. Heat is your biggest enemy! Oh yeah, and POST A TRIP REPORT WHEN YOU GET BACK!!! :D
Josh
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iamthewallress
May 23, 2003, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Woohoo! Now you're talking.
Leaning Tower is shady in the AM, but it gets blasted after 1, so get up early. Bring lots of agua b/c hauling is much less of a problem than being thirsty. Bring a camera for the killer view of El Cap from the top.
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bigdan
May 25, 2003, 12:34 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
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I've been on LT at night in the summer, and it's quite nice. Bailing seems it would be a pain due to steepness, but it's not hard. Also, you can link pitches and do it in 5 rope-stretchers. At the very least, link 1+2, 3+4, so two pitches to Awahnee, those are easy links.
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lambone
May 25, 2003, 5:50 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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5+6 are easy links too. The pitches above 6 are more difficult and will give more rope drag, but it can be done. Pitch 8 in most topos is only about 40ft, and not realy a pitch.
Great route, have fun. Many people have fnd memories of the WF as their first wall, myself included. If there are parties directly infront of you, bring your portaledge, otherwise leave it in the car and sleep on Ahwanee and the summit. Take your time on the way down, its a loose gully with potential for death trundleing on climbers bellow you.
Good luck! :) Now quite sprayin about it and go climb...
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hans
May 25, 2003, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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Great choice. You'll have a lot of fun! Don't forget your camera (like I did).
And since you'll have an extra day or so in the valley, pick something to climb the day after you get off of WF.
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wonderbread
May 26, 2003, 12:06 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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HaHaHa...Climbing something the day after you get off a wall. Good one!!!
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hans
May 26, 2003, 4:01 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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WFLT + SFWC ~= .7 * NOSE
.7 * NOSE ~= RNWF
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wonderbread
May 26, 2003, 4:15 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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Yes that is so, but I have done all those routes and have never wanted to climb anything the day after doing them.
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hans
May 26, 2003, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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Me either :)
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watersprite
May 26, 2003, 5:14 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Dingus, you are so cool.
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brutusofwyde
May 28, 2003, 1:00 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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In reply to: Dingus, you are so cool.
He is that. He is that.
Nice thing about WFLT is that after transporting the junk across the scary traverse to the base of the route (Fix ropes and shuttle the loads) the hauling is the easiest they will ever encounter on a wall. Like Bandycoot noted, extra water will be much easier to air haul than to drag up the first half of the Nose.
Brutus
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