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johng


May 27, 2003, 9:35 PM
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bvb- still waitin on the story
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of your first 24months climbing.


bvb


May 27, 2003, 10:09 PM
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ok, here's the short version. me and this psycho (his nickname was the Goon) wound up in the same 10th grade english class. I've never been climbing, but i'm at the stage where i'm reading books like "the hard years" and "the white spider" and i'm starting to dream.

turns out the goon has been climbing souhtern illinois, like, once. he's sitting right in front of me in class.

one thing leads to another. there are two climbing shops in san diego. we go to the one closest to my house and shoplift a 9mm 150' edelrid rope. we scrape up enough money to buy some beaners, some nuts (first generation chouinard hexes had just hit the market) and some slings. I saw my first climbing magazine on that first trip to the climbing store -- the 1973 issue of ascent magazine. flipping through the Ascent, with the photo of cerro torre on the cover, i knew my life was about to take a radical change.

so we start hitchiking to the local crag. some local vets take us under their wing, mostly so we don't get ourselves killed. interspersed among this are my first drug experiences, my first big falls, my first pair of e.b.'s, totally losing interst in school, spendign all my time at A Striving After Wind, the other climbing shop in San Diego, my firt major climbing injury and rescue (shattered my ankle at tahquitz in winter, 1974)...started living and breating climbing and that the way it still is today. My life has revolved around it, to an extent that is probably unhealthy..

At the very end of the 24 months, in October 1975, I led my first 5.10. Then I started training, seriously. By early 1977 I could do 25 pull ups, and a dead-hang one arm with either arm. By Dec/Jan 77 to early 78 mike paul and I were doing out first 5.12's at Woodson, Canon Tajo, Josh, and Mission Gorge, and the Magnolia Boulders. First wall -- El Gran Trono Blanco in Baja -- late in '77, with doug white, who still thinks i'm too dumb to se through THIS ruse...heh

And that's the SHORT version. So many crazy adventures. the best part? It never stops...i still feel that every day climbing is as fresh as the first one. meeting new people, seeing new areas, making new friends...it's all so f**cking DOPE!!!


bvb


May 27, 2003, 10:13 PM
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By the way doug -- or is it galen? I'm fuzzy on some of the details. Like, what year did we get busted by those two rangers at the base of moosedog? That's a chapter all by itself....heh


ronamick


Jul 1, 2003, 6:17 PM
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cripes, bubba. I don't remember any of them "first 5.12's" all over San Diego like you're saying! I do remember you and Dougie taking credit for my FA of the premiere line at Deerhorn, and renaming it "Rosy Boa" in Doug's awful lil' guidebook, which somehow missed 8 other FA's that I did with various partners at Deerhorn, but did give me credit for a throwaway 5.6 that you kooky kats renamed the Moron Route (haw-haw).

Oh, and Peter Campos and I were the pioneering (read first ever) climbers to touch the rock on that side of deerhorn valley, another little fact conveniently forgotten amongst the bloated egos and mean spirited antics of the "scumbags" of yore. About them 12's...yah, sure bob.


pywiak


Jul 1, 2003, 6:30 PM
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Bubba:

Don't forget the explorer post full of boy scout rejects and delinquents. If I recall correctly, that's how you suckered me into this obsession. I remember that Josh weekend when the crew drove into Twentynine Palms on Saturday night and stood in front of the liquor store harassing grown-ups until someone bought us a case of beer. I also remember the cop that drove by, just as it was being hustled into the trunk. You and Doug didn't look so good the next day...definitely a bad influence on an impressionable youth.

Pywiak


ronamick


Jul 2, 2003, 6:08 PM
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Love ya anyway, ya lyin' nutsack.


bvb


Jul 10, 2003, 8:03 PM
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cripes, bubba. I don't remember any of them "first 5.12's" all over San Diego like you're saying!antics of the "scumbags" of yore. About them 12's...yah, sure bob.

ron, ron, ron....maybe the quarter-century that has passed since 1978 has addled your memory, or maybe you're thinking that I'm suggesting we were doing the FA's all around san diego...what i wrote was that by late 77 into 78, we were doing our first 5.12's, not san diego's first 5.12's...we we repeating other peoples routes, especially going after the bachar/kauk/powell routes at woodson and santee...although some of the magnolis/santee/mission gorge stuff we probably f.a'd

Off the top of my head a partial list of B1's/5.11d/5.12a's that I'd ticked by '77, 78, into 79:

bachar cracker, mission impossible, the direct north face of trash boulder (6' to the left of tom birley's seam problem), hear my train a coming, shit or go blind in canon tajo, brain death at josh, the ironman traverse in the 'milk's, to an athlete dying young in yos, short circuit in yos, in '78 (in tennnies, 2nd try), the 20 point crack at magnolia (from the '78 great western bouldering championship), the unnamed thin crack at the los coaches road boulders, the double-dyno problem lunge problem at la jolla that was erroneously named "accomazzo's lunge", how's your papa on the family boulders (pretty sure this is B1/12a or whatever, especially in e.b.'s, not sure what they rate trapeze these days (used to be 11 plus) but i got the second lead on that in '76, did the largo scoop at black mountain before i left sd for the first time, so that had to be '79; did driving south in '77 and despite the usual 11c sandbag i think in the real world most folks call it would call it V4 or 12a, plus i know a lot of the stuff we did at santee would be v4 or harder, like the terrible face (tennies in 78)....and so on.

i could keep going, but i think you get my point.

let's be honest with one another...this is really about my buffed out body and chisled good looks, isn't it?


tenn_dawg


Jul 10, 2003, 8:08 PM
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In reply to:
let's be honest with one another...this is really about my buffed out body and chisled good looks, isn't it?

HAhaha

Travis


curt


Jul 10, 2003, 8:12 PM
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In reply to:
let's be honest with one another...this is really about my buffed out body and chisled good looks, isn't it?
I also suspect it is something else. Perhaps Ron is envious of your single malt collection?

Curt


beastmaster


Jul 10, 2003, 8:57 PM
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It doesn't matter how expensive your liquor is... you are still an alkie.

And bvb... that was one hell of a tick list you just vomited up.

You need a cup of water or something to wash the taste out of your mouth ?!?!?


curt


Jul 10, 2003, 9:00 PM
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Hey BM,

STFU n00B.

Curt


bvb


Jul 10, 2003, 9:17 PM
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It doesn't matter how expensive your liquor is... you are still an alkie.

And bvb... that was one hell of a tick list you just vomited up.

You need a cup of water or something to wash the taste out of your mouth ?!?!?

yo bm,

this is a running joke between me and my old buddy of 25 years or more, the notorious Ron "Biggie" Amick.

You're free to chime in, but I diidn't like the tone of your post

So Shut The Fu*k Up, NooB. I looked up your name on the profile to see if you're just one of my biddies pimping on me, but I ain't ever heard of no Jam** Seamo**.

Punk mutherfukker. Blow me, you little prick.

heh. 'lil bit 'o b.com humor there. Dicksmoking loser. You ain't in the club, so pick up your punk ass marbles and go home.


sixter


Jul 10, 2003, 11:08 PM
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BVB- impressive. I was just doing some reading on Mission Gorge last night, and said "Wow" as I saw you were creditied with a nice bunch of FAs. I am probably going to be going to Santee tomorrow after work. I hope I do get the chance to climb with you and your crew when you come out for Woodson. Forgive me, for I am such a n00b. :cry:


bvb


Jul 10, 2003, 11:23 PM
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sixter --

probably heading out to s.d. the third week in august, me and ron have been making noises about the great san diego '70's mission gorge posse reunion for months now. if we get it together, you're free to come along and see just how fat and balding we are in the flesh. pm me in a couple of weeks for an update on plans.

bvb

ps beastmaster -- you're still a fukkin dicksmoker punk. you belong over at b.com, where i mostly hang. get an account and see if you can handle the torque where the big boys tussle. pffft.


bvb


Jul 11, 2003, 2:38 PM
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Bubba:

Don't forget the explorer post full of boy scout rejects and delinquents. If I recall correctly, that's how you suckered me into this obsession. I remember that Josh weekend when the crew drove into Twentynine Palms on Saturday night and stood in front of the liquor store harassing grown-ups until someone bought us a case of beer. I also remember the cop that drove by, just as it was being hustled into the trunk. You and Doug didn't look so good the next day...definitely a bad influence on an impressionable youth.

Pywiak


ahhh yes alan, i do recall...that crew was our ticket on the first canon tajo trip in '73...whoa, time files. boy scouts. holy moly. and i do belive the beer was pbr stubbies -- hangover in a bottle....did we do any climbing that weekend?


sheesh


Jul 11, 2003, 3:06 PM
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LOL. BVB, don't let the little ones get to ya. They know not where they come from nor who they are deailing with.

Love ya!

Peace


sixter


Jul 11, 2003, 4:55 PM
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you're free to come along and see just how fat and balding we are in the flesh.

I'm only 28, and I fit that description! I hope a regular diet of granite will take care of the fat part, the balding, well, that is just life, not going to waste money on hair plugs when I can waste... errrr invest it in new shiny climbing gear.


boretribe


Jul 12, 2003, 12:23 AM
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Perhaps Ron is envious of your single malt collection?

IPS4LYFE


(Islay's Premier Scotch)


bvb


Jul 12, 2003, 10:04 AM
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weeeerd.

had a bottle of laphroaig 30 that recently yielded it's last dram...oh, such sweet sorrow.




"if being an alkie is wrong, i dont wanna be right"

(--sung the tune of 'beastmaster sucks big fat dicks', by neil sedaka)


boretribe


Jul 17, 2003, 1:17 AM
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...had a bottle of laphroaig 30 that recently yielded it's last dram...oh, such sweet sorrow.

OK, now I'm envious! 15yr is all that I've been able to afford.

Now back to the topic of this thread. At what point in your climbing history was this picture taken?

http://cameltoe.org/images/jesushchrist.jpg

Seeing this photo definitely puts your climbing accomplishments in a new perspective. I'm really impressed!


dig_scott


Jul 17, 2003, 5:27 AM
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LMAO!!

nice pic


tenn_dawg


Jul 17, 2003, 5:32 AM
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AAAAAAh!! My eyes are burning...

Travis


bvb


Jul 17, 2003, 1:29 PM
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[quote="boretribe]
Now back to the topic of this thread. At what point in your climbing history was this picture taken?

actually, that photo was snapped right after my sex change operation.


boretribe


Jul 17, 2003, 1:46 PM
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actually, that photo was snapped right after my sex change operation.

Nice work! Sweden? They alway do such quality design work.


ronamick


Jul 30, 2003, 6:25 PM
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BVB- impressive. I was just doing some reading on Mission Gorge last night, and said "Wow" as I saw you were creditied with a nice bunch of FAs. I am probably going to be going to Santee tomorrow after work. I hope I do get the chance to climb with you and your crew when you come out for Woodson. Forgive me, for I am such a n00b. :cry:

I suppose yer taking credit for a buncha my five star first ascents at The Gorge now too? (Cornered, Mickey Finn, General Dynamics, Left Overture, Hand Job, Trivial Pursuit, Absorbine Jr., The Winston Man Memorial, Sloppy Seconds and the incomparable STINKBUG!?)

Nice Tick list too... been there, done that... (except the cracks, because as you know, I don't DO cracks. They are so totally OUT). Chiseled LOOKS!? Chiseled gear and alcohol, maybe. Hard to tell if ya got a body lessen they slide you outta yer IRON LUNG! According to your lovely wife (whom I have arranged to date in the event of your untimely death), your HMO antics have raised my portion of the national debt by $134.27!

Nice smackdown too, bub. God yer good at that! But before you go in front of all these gullible rubes, beaming and accepting yet another batch of richly undeserved accolades, let's get one thing straight. When it comes to Mission Gorge, I am Captain Kirk, and you are that nameless Lieutenant in the landing party who always gets killed by the alien. Perhaps someday you can work your way up to Mr. Checkov, but your prospects don't look good. And your secret dream of being Lt. Urura is totally out of reach.

Say hello to the family, and hope to see you soon
Regards, Ron

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