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vertical_reality
May 29, 2003, 12:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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Does anyone know the grade of the boulder problem "The Speed Of Life" in western Mass? Could someone also tell me excatly where it's located so that I can look in the routes database for info in it.
Thanks,
Mike
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dysappear
May 29, 2003, 2:11 PM
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It's on the opposite side from Tweaky Bird on the same giant boulder, is V9, & is quite highball. As you're walking toward TB you'll see a passageway between 2 boulders on your left. Turn left & walk through this passage. @ the end of the passage (~20 feet) turn 90 degrees to your right. You are now looking at the start of Speed Of Life. It starts sitting on the lefthand arete of the boulder (when you are facing it). Going from the sit out right to the jug (before you head straight up into the SOL part) is V5. Bring plenty of spotters & pads for this 1. And have them stand on top of the lefthand boulder, so they can reel you in before you tumble into the passageway if you blow the crux moves.
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edge
May 29, 2003, 2:21 PM
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It's not in the route database, but is located in Farley.
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vertical_reality
May 29, 2003, 2:25 PM
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Thats a great description, thanks alot!
Any chance you can tell me where in Mass it is, crag, etc? I saw Dave Graham climb it on the vid Uncommon Ground and I'd like to go see it for myself, it looks pretty sweet.
Thanks again!
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dysappear
May 29, 2003, 4:22 PM
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It's @ the Farley bouldering area, in Farley Massachusetts. I don't know the name of the boulder, or how to describe exactly how to get there. I've been there many times, but it doesn't lend itself well to simple walking directions. Also, it's closed right now due to access issues & nesting peregrine falcons. We just posted an update on http://www.newenglandbouldering.com - go to the Info page there & check it out. Or you can just call the Northampton Athletic Club (in Northampton, Mass). The guys who work in the climbing gym there can give you much more specific info, & hook you up with a tour if you want 1. Ask for Ken or Tyson. But be warned: they are all MAD strong, so you better come with your 'A' game ready.
It's a brilliant, aesthetic climb in a great setting; a New England classic for sure. There are also at least 2 or 3 other similarly difficult & scary problems there to test yourself on. Again, the locals have all the details you could ever want. Good luck on it...
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serious1
Oct 4, 2008, 2:21 AM
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not to bump a dead thread but i was watching the video of this and it seems like the perfect problem. anyone here done it?
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