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Lowering Out?
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climbingcowboy


Jun 3, 2003, 2:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Lowering Out?
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Hey guys need some opions again. I'm talking about the follower lowering out on a pendulm point from a fixed piece.

I've been trying a couple different ways of doing this, based on what I learned in the aid video I watched a while back and trying to use comon sense, but ever since I switched over to using a gri-gri and one jumar while cleaning I found I'm pretty slow at it. What do you guys think is the most efficent way. The ways I've tried are this:

Climb up to the fixed piece and clip directly into piece with either a daisy or piece of webbing (i use a daisy), this way I unwieght the rope, First I pull up slack on the rope past the piece and tie a eight wich i clip to my harness, I then move my jumar over to the other side of the piece and reconnect it to the rope. Next I undo my gri and move it to the other side of the rope and reconnect it also. Then i run the rope (the side below the piece) through my atc and lower out into the plum line, untie from the end of the rope and pull it through the fixed piece and retie.

One problem I noticed is I have to leave the biner is this normal?

The other way:
Climb up to the fixed piece and clip directly into piece with either a daisy or piece of webbing (i use a daisy), this way I unwieght the rope, First I pull up slack on the rope Before the piece and tie a eight wich i clip to my harness, I then move my jumar over to the other side of the piece and reconnect it to the rope. Next I undo my gri and move it to the other side of the rope and reconnect it also. Then I take a bight of rope and run it through the webbing on the fixed piece, and runn the rope through my atc pull up and unwieght my daisy, unclip the biner then lower out to the plum line. This way I take the biner with me, but it uses a lot more rope to do this.

I alawys have my other jumar cliped onto my harness in case i need it so should i use it somehow in this case?

Thanks guys I get the job done both ways but couldnt find it talked about anywhere, and I know time is important up there.
Geoff


timpanogos


Jun 3, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Re: Lowering Out? [In reply to]
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Cowboy,

Everyone loves to bash Pete, but there is some good information available in his index about this very topic.

Check out this picture for instance:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...stPhoto&PhotoID=4071


lambone


Jun 3, 2003, 4:57 PM
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Finally, a post on this forum about something other then gossip, or simzboarders first 4 day trip to yosemite...

Your methods sound pretty sound. But you can cut out about half of those redundant steps. The less you are unclipping and recliping stuff to the rope the better, faster and safer.

Also, you should NEVER need to unclip your gri-gri, or clip straight into the piece, or even pass your jug abov the piece...omit these steps and it will go faster. Also, skip tieing in the back up knot because you are backed up with the gri-gri.

Instead just take a bite of rope from your main tie-in (the end of the rope), and pass it through the webbing on the fixed piece. Pull yourself in on the bite, and unclip the biner on the piece. If the lower is short then just hold onto use your hands to feed slack through the webbing, there is usualy enough friction that this isn't hard. If it is big, then you can clip an ATC into the bite for more friction. Once you run out of slack, let go of the bite and pull it through. Just make sure the bite can't loop oaround anything as you pull it, or you will be screwed...

If the pendulum is huge, consider using the zip-line to rapel off the fixed piece while you remain connected to the lead line.

Hope this makes some sense. It is basicaly what pete shows in his diagram.


epic_ed


Jun 3, 2003, 5:47 PM
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Re: Lowering Out? [In reply to]
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I use the way Pete has illustrated.

- Jug up to the piece and clip into the biner on the piece; weight it.
- Assuming it's a fixed piece (bolt, piton, head, etc), thread it with a short loop of webbing.
- Grab a bite of the free end of rope hanging below you and push it behind the loop and back to your harness.
- Grab trailing end of this bite and cinch up on it until you are fully weighting the bite of rope.
- Unclip from the biner and clean the biner, lower out until you are in line below the next piece.
- Unclip the bite of rope and pull it through.
- Repeat until the suffering ends.

Doooood! Less than ONE WEEK! Are you packed yet?! We'll take some time to go over some of this stuff when you get to the Valley. We will send a route on the Column! :D

Ed


climbingcowboy


Jun 3, 2003, 6:11 PM
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Right ON guys that seems cool I'll try it out tommorow. I knew what i was doing seemed redundint and took a while, this looks better. The areas I have to practice dont really have much oppurtinty to do this.

BRRRRROOOOO I'm there, just got done buying some food and stuff. F@ck haulbags are heavy :shock: Its all good though. oh yes we WILL send I aint backin down. It cant be any more painful then Rodeo'n and I want this BAD . Ya will that would be cool if we run though a couple things, I'm so amped.


iamthewallress


Jun 3, 2003, 6:26 PM
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Hi, Cowboy.

For shorty lower outs, I like to keep a 25 ft piece of perlon girth to my belay loop (I just leave it dangle while I climb). I just run it through the piece, move my jugs to the other side of the piece and hand over hand my way down the perlon. It won't get you across the King Swing, but it'll save you a lot of time (or harrowing swings) on traverses. Don't know if this will help for your purposes.

Lambone mentioned this indirectly...You don't need to leave a biner. Just bring a few extra hero loops of webbing in case the stuff already in place is gone or bunk.


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