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phylp
Jun 5, 2003, 12:11 AM
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I have a pair of smalls, which are a little sloppy on me (I'm a woman). I exclusively use them on the cracks in the gym - it's less hassle than taping up for a quick gym route and it saves the skin on my hands. But I'd never wear them outside - they are not sensitive enough and don't have a precise fit. I tape for cracks outside when I think I'm going to be challenged or for all day use and don't tape for casual crack cruising...
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gasdr
Jun 5, 2003, 12:22 AM
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I'm gonna buy 200 resole kits and sew myself a big C-4 climbing suit and freakin' stick to everything. :idea: :idea:
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whistleblower
Jun 5, 2003, 1:36 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Climber chk: "SACK UP?" Thats funny, you sure you're a female? BTW: Cracklover and sonso45 already answered this for everybody, thanks guys.'Nuff said. Bill yeeeahh, i'm not always exactly, um, "girlie"
C'mon clymber_chk, we all know you're a big softie... ;)
In reply to: in my opinion, rubber on the hands is aid.
Talk about the pot calling the kettle black. Well, it is an opinion. Of course, Caldwell wore custom made rubber pants that he'd attach to his thighs using spray adhesive (!) for his ascent of Flex Luther... maybe he's cheating, personally I think he's just smart.
Wear the jammies, wear the tape, or don't wear the jammies or the tape. If anyone criticizes you tell them mind their own business. But I think the original question was how they work, not the ethics of wearing them. I agree that the tradeoff is that they are awkward and you lose a lot of sensitivity. But they do make your hands bigger, so wide-hands can become perfect-hands... which is much easier. You can also take them off and put them on easily. In my opinion a good application for them would be something like the Naked Edge - 4 and 1/2 pitches where they stay clipped to your harness followed by 1/2 a pitch of sharp, painful overhanging crack. Do I own/use them? No. But if you make and use tape gloves right they should last you many months.
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deadfish
Jun 5, 2003, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: THEY BELONG DOWN ON THE GROUND WITH KNEE AND ELBOW PADS :twisted:
So glad to see such pithy wisdom posted by a 16 year old sport leader who, according to his profile, has climbed for a year and a half with mere aspirations of climbing trad one day. Go climb some offwidths and chimneys, little boy.
I think people should use whatever gear makes climbing enjoyable for them and ignore other people's opinions...internal validation is more important than someone else's ethic. I use tape most times, but go without if the crack is smooth or the climb is hard. I have considered buying hand jammies for use on hard gym cracks when I just want to tie in and go for it...throw them on and go. Hard to justify the money over my perfectly good tape gloves, though. On an offwidth, I'll be damn proud in my tape gloves, kneepads, long sleeve shirt, and an ace bandage covering my ankle bone.
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piton
Jun 5, 2003, 1:33 PM
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hand jammies are Gay! yeah yeah i use tape gloves which is pretty much the same thing, but hand jammies are Gay! you should carry a prada purse with your hand jammies Dingus! clmyber chk go climb at Vedauwoo w/out tape.
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atg200
Jun 5, 2003, 3:26 PM
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flame away dingus. i don't moderate much(just remove porn), and i bow out completely from moderating if someone takes a shot at me. if it makes you happy go ahead and say i have a small dick or whatever you like.
hand jammies still suck.
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on_sight_man
Jun 5, 2003, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: I saw a product at gearexpress (not an endorsement for them) called hand jammies, which is a rubber glove that protects only the back of your hands. A substitute for taping up while crck climbing. What do you think about these, good or bad?
They work. They DO make your hand bigger than tape does but that's sometimes a problem, sometimes a good thing. The one thing about tape gloves, habitually taped tendons, jammies, chalk, shoes etc is that when you use em, you get used to them. Cracks CAN be climbed without gloves (tape or jammies) OR shoes for that matter. And you don't have to end up with big nasty wounds (OK, on SOME cracks almost everyone will...) If you place your jams carefully and with thought about where your body will move AFTER you place it, your hand won't rotate and you won't get bit. So I actually LIKE getting wounds because then I can work to minimize them. That being said, I do tape up because I still suck at it and I don't want to stop climbing just because I can't jam neatly. It's a balance.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 5, 2003, 9:44 PM
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I use Hand Jammies often. Sometimes (like for working on B@d-@ss-Mama) in conjunction with tape. Maybe someday, if I ever send it, I'll start working on it without the crutches.
Agree, for day-long climbs near my limit I prefer to tape.
Loose fit is better than tight, which others have noted, cuts off circulation.
Good prices at Wilderness Exchange and Planet Granite in Belmont.
If you get a pair, be sure to cover all of the seams (even the seams on the velcro closure straps) with seam grip or similar protective silicone, or the jammies will have a very short lifespan.
Aid? yes.
Need sack? sure.
And whatever other ego-pounding deprecation y'all feel a need to expound on.
Brutus
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russwalling
Jun 5, 2003, 11:23 PM
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Visualize this: A slide show at the local Tshirt shop... oops, I mean Mt. Shop.... Some hero is showing pics of a giant searing crack, hundreds of feet long, 3.5" to 6", and it is so perfect it looks plasma cut.....
"yeah, yeah... I cruised it... didn't seem like 11.d fist/ow to me...."
Person in the audience yells out: "did you tape or use some sort of hand jammie?"
11.d say's "yes"
Audience leaves and mumbles "puss" under their breath.....
It is a matter of pride and style..... nothing=climbing, tape=aid, jammies=super aid, ladder=success. Which would you rather have as a feather in your hat?
As a side note, you can use whatever you want from a naked ascent to helicopter, but just be sure all the facts are divulged when you start to spray in the bar. Saying "yeah, I did it" is not a complete answer.
adios,
Russ
(Who only tapes to keep my pant leg down, stop arterial bleeding, or if a bone is showing.)
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gasdr
Jun 6, 2003, 1:57 AM
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Refer also to the 'climbing gloves' thread/debate that's going on as well.
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crackaddict
Jun 6, 2003, 2:16 AM
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I don't have any jammies for my hands.
They ussually sleep Naked!
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climber49er
Jun 6, 2003, 2:18 AM
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There are gloves avaliable now that are made of very thin spandex like material and the palm side is covered with .5mm C4 rubber! They are absolutely amazing! The sensitivity is waaaay good and you can stick slopers that you've only dreamed of.
I imagine they would be tops for crack climbing too! little tiny holes in em to keep ya cool, kind of like a batting glove...
I'm thinking, expand the concept and go with a wetsuit made of C4! snakecrawl up anything, yeah!
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yotrepo
Jun 6, 2003, 2:27 AM
Post #38 of 53
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Does anyone have info on how to make good tape gloves? After several attempts, I need help... I tried a search, but came up empty... maybe I'll try again.
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farmerc
Jun 6, 2003, 3:59 AM
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Someone, i forget who, asked about how to make tape gloves. (Sorry, my attention span is about 15 seconds) regardless, pick up the metolios catalog from last year or the year before for a diagram, OR do a forum search, or look in a climbing book, that might have pictures.
~Chris
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crackaddict
Jun 6, 2003, 4:09 AM
Post #40 of 53
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In reply to: Does anyone have info on how to make good tape gloves? After several attempts, I need help... I tried a search, but came up empty... maybe I'll try again.
Here I found this on trad girl for you.
I hope it helps.
Chris...
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hugepedro
Jun 9, 2003, 10:08 PM
Post #41 of 53
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In reply to: hand jammies are Gay! yeah yeah i use tape gloves which is pretty much the same thing, but hand jammies are Gay! you should carry a prada purse with your hand jammies
Now THAT'S the best answer so far. Just like stick clips.
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dingus
Jun 9, 2003, 10:25 PM
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In reply to: flame away dingus. i don't moderate much(just remove porn), and i bow out completely from moderating if someone takes a shot at me. if it makes you happy go ahead and say i have a small dick or whatever you like. hand jammies still suck.
Yeah! I've been flamed by a "moderator." Again.
DMT
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grigriese
Jun 9, 2003, 10:49 PM
Post #43 of 53
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Also, if you buy Metolius climbing tape there is a digram of taping up. May be helpful. I've been showed a different method, but it may still be helpful for you
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ergophobe
Jun 9, 2003, 11:55 PM
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In reply to: in my opinion, rubber on the hands is aid.... my tape gloves are one thin layer which really don't change my hand size at all.
1. You didn't answer the question - why rubber is on the hands aid, but rubber on the feet is not? Climbing shoes change the size of your feet too - in fact many people select a thin-toed shoe for crack climbing so that it will fit in the crack better. No difference.
2. How is rubber on the hands aid, but tape on the hands is not? You just said that tape works *better* for you, so it must provide more aid. I find that on some painful, abrasive climbs, having tape completely changes the climb (makes it way, way easier).
3. Why did I get sucked into this? If anyone knows, please give details and evidence.
Tom
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deadfish
Jun 10, 2003, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: 3. Why did I get sucked into this? If anyone knows, please give details and evidence. Tom
There can be two possible explanations...
1. You suck and the resulting vacuum attracted this thread
2. This thread sucks and you were drawn to it's vortex
Applying the benefit of the doubt and having seen some useful posts from you in the past, and having heard of your climbing exploits, I must conclude that you do not, in fact, suck on this occasion.
By deduction, this thread, and other threads debating whether or not tape gloves/jammies/shoes/portable elevators/jet packs are aid, must suck. You were innocently pulled in by the suction after wandering into the thread's proximity.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 10, 2003, 1:02 AM
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In reply to: As a side note, you can use whatever you want from a naked ascent to helicopter, but just be sure all the facts are divulged when you start to spray in the bar. Saying "yeah, I did it" is not a complete answer.
At this point, I would love to just be able to say "yeah, I did it, with Hand Jammies, tape, neoprene elbow pads, knee pads, chalk, tincture of benzoin, and two different styles of shoe, one for each foot" (if that would help)
Brutus, puss, overweight, and sackless.
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LuvDaCrux
Aug 23, 2008, 5:40 AM
Post #47 of 53
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I'm 160 myself. I live where we have nothing but sandstone, and I use no tape, and rarely use chalk. Don't forget, she only weighs 100, BUT she doesn't have the same strength as you.
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seatbeltpants
Aug 25, 2008, 12:35 AM
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LuvDaCrux wrote: Don't forget, she only weighs 100
dunno - this thread is five years old, so she might weight a bit more by now.
steve
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sungam
Aug 25, 2008, 12:41 AM
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seatbeltpants wrote: LuvDaCrux wrote: Don't forget, she only weighs 100 dunno - this thread is five years old, so she might weight a bit more by now. steve
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flipnfall
Aug 26, 2008, 7:04 PM
Post #50 of 53
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Nothing is a substitute for good Hockey Stick Tape. Seriously. I used gloves only once. I RAN back to tape after that.
GT
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