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climbingcowboy
Jun 5, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Well that about sums it up. I've played with them since I've had them but never really tried them out well, I really used them for the first time yesterday and they F'n rock even the little one holy cow it felt totally bomber. They saved major time and ease, instead trying to fit that little nut just perfect I slamed in a Cam hook and was gone, OH YEA. This was one of the best pieces of equipment advice I've got thanks. Geoff
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flamer
Jun 5, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Agreed bro! Those things rock!!!
josh
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lambone
Jun 5, 2003, 11:24 PM
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Just wait til you blow one out of some flared scar...your tune will change. Cam hooks are shadey and should never be trusted. That being said, you should never aid climb without them...
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flamer
Jun 5, 2003, 11:30 PM
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In reply to: Just wait til you blow one out of some flared scar...your tune will change. Cam hooks are shadey and should never be trusted. That being said, you should never aid climb without them...
lambone, very funny!!
and well put....
josh
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kindredlion
Jun 5, 2003, 11:49 PM
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Way to go guys!
Just remember softer stone can get some pretty hefty forces put on it by cam hooks - Sandstone and Camhooks don't mix....
Well said Lambone.
Adam
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peas
Jun 6, 2003, 12:08 AM
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That's funny that you say that kindredlion. I was going to comment on one of the pics that you posted lately that it looked like you are using a cam hook in sandstone. I read further and saw that it is not sandstone, but just looks like it.
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bigwalling
Jun 6, 2003, 12:55 AM
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I was think the same the peas. That area he was climbing looked sweet. Totally a wilderness adventure! Marble or something. What was that route rated?
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trapdoor
Jun 6, 2003, 1:25 AM
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Registered: May 27, 2003
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Uhh............Whats a camhook?
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kevlar
Jun 6, 2003, 5:30 PM
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YEs I was wondering the same thing?
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atg200
Jun 6, 2003, 5:32 PM
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that is like asking what a biner is. google for it.
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weekendclimber
Jun 9, 2003, 5:10 AM
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I went aid climbing with wallrat yesterday and today and used one for the first time. I had an idea of how to use them and when I did my first lead on satuday I was scared as shiz when I first tried one. I stepped into full weight not really knowing what to expect and the little bugger creaked and popped, but managed to still hold. I was so puckered it made me stop and take the thing out and place a nice nut that was bomber. I've climbed trad for several years and realized that the same technique can be used for cam hooking. So, I figured I give it another go. I pulled up on the killer nut placement (I mean I literally almost had to leave the think there. note: don't tell wallrat it was his gear). I then proceeded to place the cam hook in and wiggled it around to where I was satisfied and then this time, slowly weighted it and it creaked a little but held. I kept repeating this for about 5 moves and then placed and killer number 1 tcu and then a few more moves on the cam hooks. It was really fast and just about as scary as taking a regular leader fall on a bolted sport route, because I know my placements are bomber (the key is for them to be multi-directional: down and out) like bolts. I relaxed and pretty much took it easy. It was City Park down at Index, which is only C1 (I guess that's like A1) or something. I was quite fun and I'm ready to go do more, but alpine season is sprouting.
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lambone
Jun 9, 2003, 6:46 PM
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nice, it's fun to try to cam hook all the way up city park...on top-rope of course, try it...it's pretty tough. I still havent made it without blowing at least one...
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bigwalling
Jun 9, 2003, 11:09 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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Weekend, camhook your way up Iron Horse next time. It's a little more varied.
Why are there that many bolts at the start of City Park? What a joke!
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calpolyclimber
Jun 9, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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I understand roughly how cam hooks are used, but I got a quick Q. Do the cam hooks get placed and stay in place after the move is made, or do they get cleaned with each move (sounds awkward)? It looks like they would slip out when they are not weighted (no torque on them). Thanks to who ever can clear this up for me.
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sspssp
Jun 9, 2003, 11:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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I've done a little aid climbing and would like to get better at it.
Anyone have a suggestion for a good crack in Yosemite that I could get a toprope on and practice cam hooks? Preferably something that is not too popular and not too far out of the way?
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evoltobmilc
Jun 10, 2003, 12:53 AM
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CalPoly
Usually you clean them afterwards, no problem. Just jiggle it out if it hasn't already come out by itself. A couple times I've left one behind as pro cause I didn't have anything else (didn't have brass offsets except for micros). Zodiac comes to mind for that. I duct taped it in place to keep it there. Psychological protection for psychos, I guess.
David
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weekendclimber
Jun 10, 2003, 1:02 AM
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I cleaned each one after I made the move then did that for a couple times placing a peice that I left so in case I fell I didn't crater. It's basically similiar to free climbing mentally, but in the back of my head it feels safer. Something about standing in the third step with your fifi hooked and relaxing that makes me feel at ease.
In reply to: Why are there that many bolts at the start of City Park? What a joke! |
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 1:13 AM
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It takes alot of my energy to walk by and see all those shiny bolts so close togather. I want to chop so bad. Oh and all those hangers. But I just keep on walking. :cry:
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weekendclimber
Jun 10, 2003, 1:57 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
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Anyone know who owns this area? Is it the railroads or some private owner? We could have access fund take it over or something and turn it back to it's original once splendid pin free self. It would be a world class place and the local economy would get a boost, too.
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 2:40 AM
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In reply to: Anyone know who owns this area? Is it the railroads or some private owner? We could have access fund take it over or something and turn it back to it's original once splendid pin free self. It would be a world class place and the local economy would get a boost, too.
Why would we want to do that?! Keep the masses away! I want it too myself. It's crowded enough, less people the better off it is. And pin free. That would suck. I love nailing. But I don't do it on anything that has gone free or is considered to be a "clean climb". So I don't get to do too much of it. :(
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kindredlion
Jun 10, 2003, 3:49 AM
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Registered: Aug 7, 2002
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In reply to: That's funny that you say that kindredlion. I was going to comment on one of the pics that you posted lately that it looked like you are using a cam hook in sandstone. I read further and saw that it is not sandstone, but just looks like it.
Sorry I took a while to post back, but <.insert excuse here>. Here is the picture you were speaking of.. You're right, it sure does look like sandstone, but its not. It's way more of a mouthful than that my good good internet aquaintance; it's actually a Radiolarian churt of the franciscan complex. :shock: ..wphew..
Its some really slick shtuff. It looks a lot like marble. There are very hard areas, and some sedimentary softer areas. I would like to say I used my best judgement on these hooks, and only used them in the best of stone. That being said, the stone ain't so good all over, and lots o' hookin' here over the years (probably will never happen.. er) would surely result in some unwelcome impact.
Photo Here
..and here
and why not..
take air,
adam
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