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victoriaclimber
Jun 13, 2003, 1:06 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
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I'm signed up for a mountaineering course and need to pick up some boots and crampons. I don't know if I should buy Leather Boots or Plastic. Everyone I ask has a different answer, and all of their opinions make sense. I plan on using the boots for Glacier Travel, Mountaineering and Ice Climbing. Does anyone have experience with both types of boots that can offer an opinion. Thanks :wink: Scott
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moeman
Jun 13, 2003, 2:01 AM
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We need more information than just "Glacier Travel, Mountaineering and Ice Climbing". Where are you doing this? What season? What are the expected conditions? Do you want a technical ice boot or a general mountaineering boot? A trip up Mt. Hood in the spring will merit a much different boot than if you are going to some big ranges (Himilayas, Alaska, Andes, etc).
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crazywacky
Jun 13, 2003, 2:25 AM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
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Definitely... If you're gonna be sloggin around in deep snow, or using these boots to get up technical ice, there's a HUGE difference. You may want to go with 2 sets of boots. One for travel to the area, and one for the actual climbing part. Assuming this is for winter mountaineering, make sure that both sets are water proof/resistant and "hella" insulated. But even in the summer those mountain streams pack a serious bite on your tootsies.
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moabbeth
Jun 13, 2003, 2:41 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Scott, I have a pair of La Sportiva Nepal Extremes that I use for vertical ice climbing and winter mountaineering. They're spectacular. Excellent performance and my feet never get cold. I've seen a lot of other ice climbers up at Lee Vining with the same boots so I guess they're pretty popular. They'll set ya back some (I got lucky and got a friend at a mountaineering store to get me a lil discount :wink: ) but when you think about the fact that you'll be using them for years to come it's a worthwhile investment.
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crag
Jun 13, 2003, 7:26 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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I use older pair of Scarpa Leathers and a pair of Koflachs. The area, climate and the duration I'll be out usually determines what pair of boots I'll wear
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rockprodigy
Jun 16, 2003, 2:13 PM
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If you're planning to start ice climbing, in the winter, Canada, I would definitely go with the plastics. They are much warmer. They're also stiffer which will help you learn the sport...later on you may want to upgrade to leathers, but plastics will be the better choice for several years.
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scottharms
Jun 16, 2003, 3:15 PM
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Like above, number of scenarios that warrant different boots, I have a pair la sportiva makalu's I use them all year round, this winter I started ice climbing and they work realatively well, on a side note we were out in -25'C, ice climbing in waterton, a couple of the other guys had plastics and I was in my leathers and my feet stayed somewhat warm, the guys with plastics were complaining about having cold feet. If you are doing a number of things and don't have the funds for both choose which one will be the most universal to your needs. Cheers
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climber1
Jun 17, 2003, 5:21 AM
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If you are climbing big mountains, technical ice, or glacier travel I think plastic is the way to go. if you are doing mixed routes, leather is better.
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thedesertnomad
Jun 17, 2003, 6:15 AM
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If you are doing mountaineering (especially if you are overnighting it in sub 0 weather) plastic is a must IMO. The booty factor alone in my Koflachs makes the trek a pleasure. Just be sure to NEVER go outside your tent on a mountain IN ONLY THE BOOTIES... they can be really slippery on an icy grade and it's a sure fire way to make a very sudden, unexpected, and possibly fatal descent. If leather boots aren't 110% waterPROOF and they absorb water, they can easily freeze SOLID overnight (needless to say this holds an enormous "suck" factor) Have fun with whatever suits the terrain :D
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melekzek
Jun 17, 2003, 6:24 AM
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If it is a multiday climb, I second (third, fourth, whatever) plastic. There is nothing like trying to wear frozen leather boots in front of the tent in the morning and watching your fingers change color, hah hah. Or trying to sleep with leather boots inside the sleeping bag such that they do not freeze...
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jude
Aug 2, 2003, 8:34 PM
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If you're taking a course, I would recommend asking the people who are running it what is best. Also keep in mind what your next goal is. Mine is Denali so plastic is in my future. Rental plastics are readily available, so you can try them without the expense of buying. Having said all that, I took a course and rented plastics. Half way through I ditched them for my own leathers. It never got too cold. so I could do that. In addition to all the other advice, fit is huge. The best boots in the world won't do jack if they don't fit properly.
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podunkclimber
Aug 5, 2003, 6:00 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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I agree with Jude, and I also think you should ask the people who will be running the course. My default answer is plastic, even though I hate ice climbing in them. Plastics will be warmer, and are the best choice if you will be out over night with them. You can take the liners into your bag with you, and then you don't have to put on frozen boots in the morning. Idealy you should find a place with a nice selection, and knowledgable sale people. In reality (I work in sales in outdoor equipment) that is hard to come buy. You will more than likely find most places have a really bad selection, and the sales person is burnt out from shagging eight pair casual shoes for every women in the area with a shoe fetish. Personal experience. Go looking for boots on Mon, or Tues nights in the early to mid evening, but during the day is even better. The sales people will love to help, and you may even get two or three helping you at once. You will be a pleasant break for cleaning the shop, and putting out shipment. A really good place will sell the liners, and the boots, and fit each one to your foot individualy. That is how plastics are suppose to be fit, but most places don't. Good luck hunting.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 5, 2003, 8:43 PM
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Leather climbs steep ice and mixed better and plastic is warmer, drier for xtreme winter conditions. I climbed all winter in the daks, vt, nh in my nepal extremes and it was a COLD winter but I mostly soloed or climbed with a fast partner. the one cold day I went out as a threesom my feet got cold.
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pico23
Aug 6, 2003, 3:37 AM
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As everyone mentioned it's a highly variable topic. First off some people can climb (or more appropriately belay) just fine in a lightly insulated leather boot in nasty weather while others feet get cold in the mid 20's. Those that get cold aren't whimps they just have a lower metabolism or poorer circulation or both. Keep in mind that crampons suck the heat out of the boot so any boot loses some insulative properties when you are standing around with metal on your feet. I truly think leather is a bad first investment. People covered why above and I'd like to add that if I only had one pair of winter boots it would be plastics. It's marketing hype that you absolutely need two pairs of boots and IMO having 2 pairs is mostly a luxury. That said I miss my leathers (they just never fit well enough) for warmer days and general (non technical) mountaineering with long slogs. If you'll be doing overnighters or multinighters leather can and will freeze unless you put them in your sleeping bag. Plastic gets soggy from the inside but remains warm. Use of VB liners with either can definitely make them warmer and dryer but leather is still gonna get wet from the outside in.
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alpinestylist
Aug 6, 2003, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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I have paid with toes... plastic for sure...vasque doubles are really light. if you m climb you can usually (cept Canada) get away with leather. I climb fast (or like to think I do), used leathers for seasons, got punk fucked in teh alps on a 28 hour push...wish I had doubles... keep sloggin B
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