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AF E-News #32
June 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
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IN THIS ISSUE:
1. The Access Fund and US Forest Service Ink Groundbreaking Agreement:
2. Castle Rocks Finally Opens to Climbing
3. New River Gorge Draft Climbing Management Plan Available
4. CRAG-VT Acquires Lower West Bolton Cliffs
5. Access Fund Hosts National Climber Activists Summit
6. Job Announcements
7. Featured Corporate Partner – Rock and Ice Magazine
8. Journals and Memorabilia
9. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program
10. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
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1. The Access Fund and US Forest Service Ink Groundbreaking Agreement:
Government-Private Partnership Formalizes Working Relationship to Promote
Responsible Use of Public Lands
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The Access Fund, a climbers advocacy organization, and the U.S. Forest Service
(USFS) recently announced a ground-breaking agreement that formalizes a cooperative
agreement to work at the national, regional and local levels on mutually beneficial
programs, projects, training and other recreational activities. The five-year
agreement will see the USFS and Access Fund working together on programs, projects
and activities that leverage both of their charters and are in the best interests of
the public.
“There is a strong need throughout the country to actively promote public and
private partnerships that encourage the responsible use of public lands,” said
Steve Matous, executive director of the Access Fund. “Today’s agreement
solidifies what has been an informal working arrangement, and creates a watershed
for the use and management of public lands across America.”
The heart of the agreement is the commitment by the Forest Service to encourage its
local officials to participate with Access Fund staff and representatives in the
development of mutually beneficial work projects and educational activities. In
return, the Access Fund will support educational activities, develop and maintain a
nationwide communication network, provide technical assistance to land managers and
facilitate understanding and communications between climbers and public agencies.
“Both the Forest Service and the Access Fund share the common interest of
providing information to the public on such subjects as conservation, recreation and
natural resource activities as they relate to climbing,” said David Holland,
director, Recreation, Heritage and Wilderness Resources for the United States Forest
Service. “We’re looking forward to working with the Access Fund to identify
appropriate partnership opportunities and to jointly pursue them on a national
basis.”
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2. Castle Rocks Finally Opens to Climbing
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Over Memorial Day weekend, Castle Rock Ranch opened for public use after 5 years of
effort. The 400-foot high pinnacles and monoliths attracted climbers for years but
were privately owned and off-limits until recently. In 1999 the Conservation Fund
and the Access Fund teamed up to buy the ranch, and subsequently the Castle Rock
Ranch Acquisition Act of 2000 authorized the National Park Service (NPS) to purchase
the 1,240-acre ranch with the understanding that the area would be turned into a
state park and opened for public recreation, specifically climbing. The Idaho
Department of Parks and Recreation (IDPR), the same agency that currently manages
City of Rocks National Reserve, will manage the state-owned portion of “Castles”
(BLM and USFS land lies behind the state park).
After time consuming environmental analyses by the NPS, the state of Idaho began
planning for the opening of the park in late 2002. In January, Access Fund Policy
Director Jason Keith facilitated a climbing management plan workshop at Castles with
participants from the American Alpine Club, the Boise Climbers’ Alliance and
individual climbers from Salt Lake City, Pocatello, Ketchum, Boise, and Jackson.
Part of the climbing management plan for Castles included a unique provision for
climbers to enter the park before the general public, and following an intensive
orientation, establish new routes using fixed anchors in “Zone One,” which had
been cleared by IDPR after surveying for sensitive natural and cultural resources.
The thought behind this “pre-opening” was to prevent a rush on opening day for
the many new routes available at Castles, but to also prevent any possible conflicts
with other user groups once the park opened.
Over 50 new routes were established on opening day, and a host of happy climbers
raved about the climbing at Castles, which is comparable to the neighboring City of
Rocks. Additional zones may open up to new route development as early as this
summer, but route developers must attend a short education and orientation program
at the contact center and possess a valid permit to place fixed anchors.
Castle Rocks State Park is open as a day-use facility between the hours of 8 a.m.
and 10 p.m. from Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day, and between the hours of 8 a.m.
and 10 p.m. on Friday-Sunday during the months of September, October, April, and
May. All recreation users must pay a motor vehicle entrance fee or exhibit an annual
pass or Idaho VIP pass. When the 25 parking facilities are maximized, additional
vehicles will be excluded until space is available. Users entering on bike, horse or
foot will be permitted without charge or concern for parking capacity up to a total
occupancy of 75 people at any given time. For more information, contact the City of
Rocks Visitor Center at 208-824-5519.
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3. New River Gorge Draft Climbing Management Plan Available
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The Draft Climbing Management Plan for New River Gorge National River is now
available for public review and comment. For a copy, see
http://www.nps.gov/neri/pdf/neri_draftcmp.pdf. Comments must be postmarked by June
30, 2003 and can be submitted to Gary Hartley Chief Ranger, New River Gorge National
River P.O. Box 246 Glen Jean, WV 25846, or via email to: neri_cmp@nps.gov.
The National Park Service intends that the CMP will meet the following objectives:
(1) Protect natural and cultural resources within the park, and the scenic integrity
of the area; (2) Provide the opportunity for climbing related recreation; (3)
Maximize input from public and climbing community; (4) Determine appropriate
commercial use as related to climbing; and (5) Develop an effective interpretive and
educational program to enhance compliance.
For the Access Fund’s comments on the New River Gorge Draft CMP, click here
http://www.accessfund.org/whoweare/COMMENTS/NRG-CMP.htm
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4. The New Climbers Rendezvous
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The New Climbers Rendezvous was held on May 16-17 at the New River Gorge. Despite a
torrential rainstorm, locals still managed to put on a great event offering a wide
selection of clinics and classes, free camping, and slack line, dyno, pull-up,
bouldering and climbing comps. Saturday night saw a short film contest, a raffle
(which helped raise over $1800 for the New River Alliance of Climbers), free food,
and a dance party with music by spinmeisters Jason Babkirk, Andy Marstiller and Matt
Campbell. The following morning, Trango USA and Stonewear Designs treated aching
heads to coffee and a free pancake breakfast.
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5. CRAG-VT Acquires Lower West Bolton Cliffs
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CRAG-VT (Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont) completed the donation of the
Lower West in late May. CRAG-VT received the generous donation of the 5+-acre parcel
from Mr. Patrick Smith, who purchased the land in 2000. The transfer of the cliff to
CRAG-VT will ensure access to climbing in perpetuity. CRAG-VT is a 501(c) 3
not-for-profit dedicated to promoting access and conservation of Vermont's climbing
resources. CRAG-VT is one of only a few climbing organizations in the U.S. to hold
title to property used for rock climbing. For more information visit www.cragvt.org.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
6. Access Fund Hosts National Climber Activists Summit -- Climbers to Converge on
Estes Park, CO this September
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The Access Fund will host a national conference for climber-activists from September
11-14, 2003 at the Estes Park Center in Estes Park, Colorado. The event will unite
the organization’s national network of regional coordinators with activists from
local climber organizations (LCOs) for several days of training, workshops and
discussion. Over 100 attendees have been invited to discuss strategies for
preserving access, conserving the climbing environment and promoting effective
outreach at the grassroots level.
The Summit underscores the Access Fund’s commitment to preserving access by
investing in the support, training and promotion of local grassroots activism. The
event also provides an excellent forum for volunteer activists from around the
country to share the ideas, experience, resources and knowledge necessary to
preserve climbing access and protect the natural environment. This will be the
fourth such event held by the Access Fund in its 13-year history.
“With so many dedicated volunteers and seasoned activists gathering in one place,
the Summit will be a remarkable learning experience,” said Shawn Tierney, Access
Fund access and acquisitions director. “I expect all will come away from the
weekend with a greater understanding of the crucial role grassroots activism plays
in preserving access.”
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7. Job Announcements:
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DIRECTOR OF MAJOR GIFTS
National climber advocacy group dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and
conserving the climbing environment seeks senior-level fundraiser and administrator
with extensive experience in donor cultivation, major gift solicitation and working
with foundations. Position responsible for program oversight, budget development and
tracking, marketing, and outreach. Salary is dependent on experience. Health,
vacation and retirement benefits are included. Position is based in Boulder,
Colorado. Climbing background is preferred. Send resume and cover letter via e-mail
to steve@accessfund.org or by mail to: Executive Director, The Access Fund, PO Box
17010, Boulder, CO, 80308.
GRASSROOTS COORDINATOR
The Access Fund has an opening for a person with strong presentation and
communication skills, community/grassroots climbing activism experience. The
successful candidate will be: a climber, self-starting, adept at multi-tasking,
enjoys challenges and a small work team. Candidates should possess a diverse
climbing background and be energetic, well organized and able to work closely with
fellow staff and the grassroots activists and organizations they are supporting.
This is a full-time position with good benefits and an exciting, supportive work
environment. Salary range: $27,000-33,000. Two weeks paid vacation, health and
retirement benefits. Position based in Boulder, Colorado. To be filled July 2003.
Deadline for applications: June 30, 2003.
Send resume and cover letter via email to shawn@accessfund.org or by mail to: Shawn
Tierney, Access and Acquisitions Director, The Access Fund, PO Box 17010, Boulder,
CO 80308.
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8. Featured Corporate Partner – Rock and Ice Magazine
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Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate sponsor of the Access Fund and has
been since 1993.
"Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock and Ice magazine. The Access
Fund is THE climbers voice, speaking for all of us in key political circles, working
to keep our crags open for today -- and tomorrow's -- climbers."
Duane Raleigh
Editor in chief and publisher
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9. Journals and Memorabilia
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The Access Fund has the following journals for sale. Email heather@accessfund.org to
inquire about availability or to make an offer.
High 118, 153, 156, 160-162, 164, 166, 179, 180, 183, 191, 194
Climbing Magazine - #114-160 (June/July 1989- May 1996); Missing #119
Rock & Ice #13, 19-30, 35, 37, 40-42, 54, 60 through 90’s
Mazama December 1940-1988 (48 total)
American Alpine News
Membership Handbook – 1984, 1987, 1988
Issues – 1985-1988 (vol. 1-4); 1989 (spring and fall); 1999 (vol. 8)
Off Belay - Jan 1972-Feb. 1981
Alpine Journal - 1969-1989
Crags - #11-15
La Montagne - #35-38
La Montagne & Alpinisme - #1-4
Adirondack Alpine Journal - #1 - #8 (Dec ’83 – April 86)
Leeds University Union – Climbing Club Journal 1974
Rock: Australia’s Climbing Magazine 1987
Flash – Vol. 1 #’s 1-4
Connection – Vol. 1 (2-4); Vol. 2 (1-3)
Sport Climbing – Vol. 2 (#4); Vol. 3 (#1-3)
The Climbing Art- #25
Summit – Nov. 1965, June 1978, Jan. 1989, May 1989, Winter 1991
Crags – 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29
Mountain Magazine – 40, 76, 77
Mountain Gazzette – 63
Descent – 1972, 1990
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10. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
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Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at the minimum
level of $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
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11. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
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The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides
up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It
is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join
at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed, it is a
benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication
electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and
allocate more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in
this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name
and address to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their print copy of
Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200 per year to be utilized in
protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
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AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing messages to the
lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any
of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.
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