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naitch
Jun 19, 2003, 9:26 PM
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My son and I have been climbing for 3 years. He leads up to 5.10 sport and I up to 5.8-5.9 sport. We have been doing some 5.5 and 5.6 trad leads at Nelson. My question is: are the following routes within our capability and is there anything to particularly watch out for on these routes?
Ecstacy Junior 5.4
Thais 5.5
Candy Corner 5.5
Dirty Old Man 5.6
Le Gourmet Direct 5.6
Breakneck 5.6
Are there anchors (bolts, tress with slings etc.) at any of the belay points or do we build gear anchors? Anything else?
Thanks!
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sticky_fingers
Jun 19, 2003, 9:34 PM
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Of the ones I've done (Le Gourmet Direct, Candy Corner, and Dirty Old Man), you shouldn't have problems with the climbing nor achors. Le Gourmet is the only one with multi-pitches, but shouldn't be a problem; anchors and trees for everyone, and don't forget to look for the occasional rusty piton!
I recommend Le Gourmet Direct cuz of the views.
Have fun
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naitch
Jun 20, 2003, 12:30 PM
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Thanks. Some of the other routes Thais, Breakneck, and Ecstacy Junior are multi-pitch routes. Anybody have any info on them re what type of belay setups they have? The reason I ask is, if they are gear belays, I'll need to lead them. If they are bolts, trees/slings etc, then my son is competent enough to lead them.
Are there any other must do routes in this range to get us started?
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vertical_reality
Jun 20, 2003, 2:24 PM
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You shouldn't have any trouble on EJ either, it's a 2 pitch route with great belay stations that have big trees for anchoring and webbing and rings for rapping. Very nice easy route.
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eastsider
Jun 20, 2003, 2:24 PM
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2 more routes to check out....
Skyline Traverse(5.3)- Starts around the corner/butress opposite of candy corner. Super mellow, good gear. 1st belay is bolted, can't remember the rest.
LSD ( Lower Skyline Direct, 5.5)- Around the corner to ther right of Candy Corner, before you get to the ledge where Skyline starts.
two more...
The first pitch of Totem (less than 5.6) - The rest of the route is harder, but the first pitch is easy and goes to a fixed anchor under the roof. This is to the left of Candy Corner.
oooh if you do Candy Corner, you can easily top rope Ye Gods and Little Fishes...another good pitch.
be safe and Cheers
Adam
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ontherocks
Jun 20, 2003, 2:28 PM
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Well, Tony Barnes (he wrote Seneca's guidebook) told me that Candy Corner is 5.6, but I think it's only because of the crux, just after the first belay station. Easy stuff. Bolts at the end to rappel down from te other face.
On Ecstasy you may use some pitons that are on the route, if I remember correctly, but back them up!
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zetedog
Jun 20, 2003, 2:33 PM
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Extreme beta warning:
Ecstacy Junior 5.4:
2 pitches, first pitch is sort of heady for a 5.4, there is a 10' traverse with little gear near the start, unless you son is taller the 5'11", in which case you can get a tcu/alien in above him to protect the traverse. It's on a decent 5th class ledge, so most people don't worry about it. Tons of gear (mostly nuts) after that, finishes on on a big ledge w/ mulitple trees to sling for an anchor. Next pitch protects well, If I remember correctly, there are plenty of trees there as well.
Thais 5.5
All gear belays, lots of people have route finding problems on this one, but even if you are off route, it's never more than 5.6, I think. Tends to be loose
Candy Corner 5.5 (sandbag, tricky section 3/4 of the way up, lots of protection though). 1 pitch, bolt anchors, 60M necessary to rap, or can finish the 2nd and third pitches of skline traverse (5.3).
I'll make a plug here for skyline, one of the best routes at seneca. First pitch ends at a ledge with two bolts and some gear options, second pitch (start is classic) ends on a slabby ledge with a tree and lots of gear options, third pitch ends on lower broadway, which you could park a car on, and has lots of trees, Third pitch protects well, move right before stepping on the ledge to avoid anything loose. Can walk off via some 4th class to gain the luncheon ledge on the other side, or do routes on broadway.
Also in this area: 1st pitch of totem, 5.4ish? Totem is listed as a 5.11, but the first pitch is good fun, lots of gear, ends at bolts. 60m needed. Good when candy corner is taken, which is frequently.
Dirty Old Man 5.6
Did about three years ago, and I think its gear belays, but I am not 100% positive. but you would most likely climb the last two pitches of skyline to gain broadway ledge for this one.
Le Gourmet Direct 5.6
Trees with gear options , If I remember correctly, except for the top out pitch. Le gourmet (not direct) 5.4, ends at a tree and bolts, then you can do le gourmet after that, or front c, one move wonder 5.7 (think stem), lots of gear (smallish cams/tcu's) ends at a tree, then finish on multiple options.
Breakneck 5.6
Never done.
I would also recommend Conn's west direct. 1st pitch 5.0?, can end in multiple places, all of which are gear belays, second pitch 5.3? ends at either a tree or rap bolts, depending upon which is open, final pitch 5.4, which is stellar climbing, ends at a tree, 15 feet from summit.
There are tons of options in your range. Don't overlook the 5.3/5.4's as Seneca has tons of stellar climbing in that range. Helmets a must. The barnes guidebook, while poor sometimes, normally lists where bolt belays are. If its a good weekend (ie if his rain ever stops) all will be crowded, and people will help with beta.
Todd
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hyhuu
Jun 20, 2003, 3:12 PM
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Dirty Old Men is prob the best 5.6 there. There are 2 pitches, belay are Cold shuts for the first and a big tree for the second. But you can combine both pitches to make a long one.
Just curious, what difference would it make what kind of belay? If your son can place gear then he certainly can build anchor.
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naitch
Jun 20, 2003, 3:28 PM
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He hasn't taken the time yet to learn to equalize anchors pulling from mutilple directions. He's good at gear placement, but I want him to learn more about multiple point and opposing direction anchors - that's the only reason why I wanted to know more about the anchor situation. He's set up plenty of belays and raps from trees/bolts/coldshuts.
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naitch
Jun 20, 2003, 4:58 PM
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Thanks for all the good beta. It's been over a year since I was at Seneca even though I only live 1.5 hours away. At the time I was only seconding, not leading. I don't remember much about the climbs except that they seemed a bit stiffer than other areas I've climbed at.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 21, 2003, 11:09 PM
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gunsite to south peak is a must. the direct is even better 8)
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roninthorne
Jun 21, 2003, 11:46 PM
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Conn's East: all bolt belays, never outrageous, excellent views, easy scramble to the S summit, and short, protectable downclimb to rap off the W face for the hike out to the car.
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whichwayisup
Jun 25, 2003, 2:36 AM
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I just climbed Old Mans route (5.2) there this weekend. It was a perfect route for my first multi-pitch. Route finding was simple and had bolts at all belays except first one.
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clymberboy
Jun 25, 2003, 3:55 PM
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In reply to: Ecstacy Junior 5.4 Thais 5.5 Candy Corner 5.5 Dirty Old Man 5.6 Le Gourmet Direct 5.6 Breakneck 5.6 Are there anchors (bolts, tress with slings etc.) at any of the belay points or do we build gear anchors? Anything else? Thanks!
EJ ==> 2pitch, great route, although the traverse is way over-hyped, don't sweat it, natural solid belays on ledges with trees
thais ==> only climbed first 2 pitches, combined the chimney pitch with 3rd pitch of thais direct (overhanging 5.7) & nearly ran outta gear, don't remember much else
CC ==> 1pitch, challenging for its grade, double bolt anchor on ledge just above ye gods
dirty old man ==> haven't climbed
le gourmet direct ==> 2/3 pitch, although a mere .6, this one seriously plays with my head, natural belays on good ledges
le gourmet to front c ==> 2pitch, a great line that eats pro & huge ledges & trees for belay, for a third pitch, pick any route on the critter wall
break neck ==> 2pitch, one of my favorites, very airy & enjoyable, 1st belay is hanging on some fixed strands of webbing & #3 & #4 camalots, pro on pitch 2 gets a bit scarce near the top out (from the top, you'll have to protect a short traverse & small overhang to reach the summit ledge)
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jhump
Jun 25, 2003, 4:22 PM
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I agree with an earlier poster, if your son can place gear on lead where massive fall potential exists, and he can rig up bolts and trees for belays (I assume he is equalizing the bolts) he can rig a belay using gear. Place a few solid pieces in semi close proximity. Clip them with a sling. Tie a figure 8 in the sling in the direction of the load. Anchor is done.
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jhump
Jun 25, 2003, 4:24 PM
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Better yet, Seneca is the perfect place to teach your son how to build an anchor. During the heat of the afternoon, stand around in the shade somewhere on the ground, and just build and breakdown anchors. Offer no advice, then critique his work pulling no punches. I bet he can do it, if he has the skills to place gear on lead.
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