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what about climb in a team of three in the nose?
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pedrospain


Jun 28, 2003, 4:10 AM
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what about climb in a team of three in the nose?
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Hello Guys!
We want to climb the nose route to the cap at the beginning of september, But there´s a problem: we are three persons. We have no much idea about move systems in a team of three. We have only read something about these systems and it seems a bit difficult and messy

Would you give us some advice about this? Which system do you use?
Is the nose a good route to climb in a team of 3?

Thank you in advance for your answers


mesomorf


Jun 28, 2003, 4:48 AM
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Re: what about climb in a team of three in the nose? [In reply to]
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http://www.fishproducts.com/howto/ht3person.html

If you do this right, you can be faster than a team of two. If you don't do it right....

Please practice somewhere besides the Nose. Or the South Face of Washington Column.

You might also try climbing as a team of two, with the third guy doing the dirty work of hauling on day 1. On subsequent days, rotate the dirty work.


passthepitonspete


Jun 28, 2003, 12:53 PM
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Re: what about climb in a team of three in the nose? [In reply to]
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The most efficient way to climb in a team of three is by Short Fixing and Leading In Blocks. This is the technique used by the speed climbers, or people like me who choose not to start climbing until after noon.

Russ Walling's descriptions linked above fail to discuss this.

Fortunately, I have already answered this question in a previous post, so I don't have to bother writing it out again.

Short fixing basically means that when the leader reaches the belay, he pulls up all the slack in the lead rope, and "short fixes" it to the belay. He uses the extra slack that he has pulled up in the lead line to begin soloing the next pitch. You don't wait for someone to jug up - you just fix the rope, and go. This way, the leader is always on the move.

Just be careful when you take off that you eliminate any possibility of a Factor 2 Fall.

This isn't something you "figure out" on the big wall - it's something you practise at home. Solo leading isn't exactly rocket science, but it's something you'll want to have dialled ahead of time.

You can click here to Ask Dr. Piton .... about the Better Way to climb in a Team Of Three.

Note: Short Fixing and Leading In Blocks can be applied to a Team of Two as well. Tom and I did this on Bermuda Dunes. For instance, when Tom was leading the block of offwidth pitches up to The Alcove, he took off on solo lead while I cleaned and then hauled, and then replaced the other bolts at the belay.

I should probably write that up in the other post linked above.

If you have any further questions, may I suggest you put them in this other post?

Cheers,

The Doc


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