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crux_clipper
Jan 17, 2002, 5:15 AM
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Ehho!!!
I have heard many conflicting reports on weather or not to hold the rope in your mouth to get more slack when leading. The guy who taught me to lead at a gym to me to NEVER bite the rope (except roofs, becuse it's pretty hard otherwise) because people have been known to down and crunch goes their teeth . Another instructor at another gym said that in a fall, your main instinct is to , therefore not actually holding the rope in your mouthe.
The question to you all is, To bite, or not to bite....
[ This Message was edited by: crux_clipper on 2002-01-16 21:20 ]
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dustinap
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Jan 17, 2002, 6:22 AM
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I recently taught a woman how to lead, and the first thing I told her, before anything, was NEVER put the rope in your mouth, like everyone else in the gym does.
I put my head down and put the rope under my chin, I've seldomly drop it now I'm use to it, it took me awhile to get use to doing this, but I have no problem doing it now.
Now she does this, and since she's never put it in her mouth, she thinks it's great.
Yes, putting it in your mouth is easier, but my teeth are worth it.
I find over hangs are easier to put it under my chin then other times. I do lots of overhung stuff in the gym, even campus routes.
I normally climb up to or above the draw before I clip, as long as I'm not to close to the ground.
I find it is only hard to do it "my style" when I'm really pulling down hard.
Also, my mouth opens, and my hands go straight up, so I don't hit things when I fall. The mouth opens is just what happens, LOL.
Learning how to fall is very important, all should learn how to do it.
NEVER GRAB THE ROPE, unless you're afraid of getting flipped upside down.
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-01-16 22:26 ]
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arete2
Jan 17, 2002, 6:51 AM
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When I learned to lead at Vertical Endeavors in Minneapolis, MN they told up to do whatever we feel comfortable with, and that we should practice if we are gonna do it a certain way, he mentioned that holding it in our mouth was not bad, he said that he had been climbing for 20 years doing it that way, I bite. But this is like asking someone how to lift weights everyone is gonna tell you a different way, and everyones way is right, hope this helps.
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bart
Jan 17, 2002, 8:33 AM
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I can only say that my climbing partner (who is older than me) said me not to do it because his friend had done it and had fell: he surely wasn't , he kept on biting and many teeth were lost. He said that friend had to 'eat' liquid food for more than a month. So I try not to do it, but I have to admit that it's hard to get enough rope without biting.
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barmy
Jan 17, 2002, 8:38 AM
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Doesn't the majority of all climbers put the rope in their mouth. I have never heard of anyone who lost his/her teath be doing so and fall, I guess its possible but VERY unlikely.
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coach
Jan 17, 2002, 1:36 PM
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I bite the rope when I reach for slack to clip but as soon as I have the slack I let the rope drop from my mouth. I suppose I may fall at the moment I reach for slack but find that I tend to holler "falling" or "Oh Sh*t" or something every time I fall anyway so the rope would drop from my mouth. I guess whatever you are most comfortable working with is the way to go. Everyone I climb with hold the rope in their mouth and I've seen a lot of falls and we all still have our teeth.
Climb On
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coach
Jan 17, 2002, 1:37 PM
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I bite the rope when I reach for slack to clip but as soon as I have the slack I let the rope drop from my mouth. I suppose I may fall at the moment I reach for slack but find that I tend to holler "falling" or "Oh Sh*t" or something every time I fall anyway so the rope would drop from my mouth. I guess whatever you are most comfortable working with is the way to go. Everyone I climb with hold the rope in their mouth and I've seen a lot of falls and we all still have our teeth.
Climb On
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case22
Jan 17, 2002, 2:04 PM
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I find that I hold the rope in my mouth for a split second to get just a little more rope out. I don't hold it in my mouth while clipping. As soon as I'm done pulling the rope, I drop it out of my mouth. I honestly don't know anyone that has had anything bad happen while the rope is in their teeth. Just do what you're comfortable with, and make sure you do it as safe as possible.
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slyder
Jan 17, 2002, 4:09 PM
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I bite the rope, but almost always release it as soon as I grabthe rope to pull up more slack. I see it possible tht someone could fall and lose a few teeth, but it doesn't seem very likely.
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paulc
Jan 17, 2002, 4:33 PM
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I usually bite the rope, but have had times when the rope gets caught on the way out and I get a good cut, no lost teeth yet though.
Here is a question though: Why do people need to bite the rope in the first place? If you grab the rope at your harness (no really right at your harness) and then pull up you are going to get a full arm load of rope as long as you let the rope slide thru your hand as you pull up. If you do the slide thing correctly then you will end up with the exact amount of rope you need to clip the draw and no more. The number of times I have seen people who go to clip and keep yelling for slack, but have 2 feet of slack between them and where they are holding the rope is crazy.
I just thought about this the other day so most of my experience is biting, but this way is much better, quicker too.
Paul
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kennoyce
Jan 17, 2002, 7:42 PM
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I always bite the rope to clip, but I have heard of people who have fallen with the rope in their mouth and riped out all of their teeth. i have never acculy met someone who has done this , but i've heard of a few people who have. I still bite the rope because it is easier, and when i fall i scream so i figure that woule open my mouth anyway.
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deed
Jan 17, 2002, 8:39 PM
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I don't even tie into my harness anymore...I just bite onto the end of the rope and climb.
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i.karen
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Jan 17, 2002, 9:33 PM
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deed,
That was RAD!!!
I don't think you should use your teeth! What if your hold breaks off?? Not much time to let go!!
Karen
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jt512
Jan 17, 2002, 9:54 PM
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In the real world of outdoor rock climbing, everybody bites the rope. There is no other way to get enough rope out fast to make a high clip. Just make sure you spit the rope out if you fall. If you get into the habit of yelling "falling" (or any other f-words) when you fall, the rope will come out automatically.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-01-17 13:56 ]
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krustyklimber
Jan 27, 2002, 4:57 AM
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I find it funny that guys that won't share a water bottle don't mind sharing the same slobbery spot on the rope it used to bug me when I'd pull up rope and go to bite it, it was hard to get over but I've learned to deal with it. Still I usually don't bite the rope though. I agree that you can just let the rope slide through your hand, until your high on the pitch when the rope weight creates so much friction it can burn your skin, then I just have to deal with my personal problems and bite the "bullet" so to speak.
Jeff
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-01-26 20:59 ]
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