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xcit
Jul 4, 2003, 4:02 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2002
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We are coming to Moab next week (July 5-12) and have never been before and was wondering if there are any really low grade routes around Moab. my wife will be coming and does not climb, I took her up some 5.5's in 11 mile canyon in Colorado and she really like it.
Any suggestions?
Also I was looking at weather.com and its supposed to be in the 100's everyday. I hope there is low humidity so its not steaming.
Thanks
Brandon J.
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tradkelly
Jul 4, 2003, 4:28 AM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2003
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Only a couple of 5.easy climbs in the area, TR on Potash Road. It'll be the obvious low-angled slab areas you come across around (?) 2/3 of the way down the cliff. Look in one of the guides for the TR areas - they're the only things I can even think of below .8. It's gonna be way hot, unless you're climbing at 0600 or 2000. The rock stays hot all afternoon on Potash/Wall Street, even though it's east-facing. Find another activity, like sitting in the river... :) good luck.
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moabbeth
Jul 4, 2003, 5:21 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Yep. What kelly said.
Even Potash doesn't have that many easy routes. There's a couple of easy routes on the very north end of Potash Rd that the guides use to take first timers out rock climbing, but again the guides tend to take up that section of rock so it's not always free. And yep, it'll be be hot rock to climb on.
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oudinardin
Jul 4, 2003, 6:50 AM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2002
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I agree with the above but I must say this. Having guided there for the month of April/Mayish, The stone will be too hot to hold on to as mentioned above. The gym or Wall Street's climbs are mostly rated higher for several reasons so you might be able to find something in the early a.m. hours and we're talkin early. As far as other things to do, it's hot there so the river would be your best bet. There is a climb (sport) that is seriously over rated but the name escapes me. The guide book claims 5.11 R but it's more like 5.9. I'll check my notebook in the afternoon tomorrow and post it here. Peace. Go in the fall, it's bliss. Peace. Mike
Ya know? Now that I think about it I would say 5.8.
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neeshman
Jul 4, 2003, 7:01 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2002
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Ok, I am not sure if my opinion even belongs in this one. But I live over in St. Geoge, Utah. Which is 8 miles from the Arizona border and like 15 from the Nevada border. So southwest corner O' Utah. Anyways I know here it is between 100 - 110 degrees. The rock is way to hot here to climb in the day, so we either have to be done climbing by 8:00 AM or start at about 7:00 PM or we could turn into a cactus. So find something cool to do, and it's moab so there is plenty, and try and get some good climbing done in the morning or at night. Hope this helps a bit.
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xcit
Jul 5, 2003, 2:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2002
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OK Thanks for the input, it looks like we might have to bail on Utah this summer and just stay in the high country of CO.
Brandon J.
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atg200
Jul 6, 2003, 3:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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the only honest to god 5.5 i can think of near moab is impish on dock rock in the fisher towers. it is a good route that if doing roped you should break into two pitches because it wanders. it seemed a little easier to me than the staircase at 11mile, but the rock is funky and it might be harder to protect. it'll also be very very hot.
south sixshooter is another decent 5.6 down at indian creek, but i thought it was pretty hard for 5.6 and it has a long approach that i definitely wouldn't want to do in the summer.
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