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allenbrook in atlanta, ga
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mountnotyalc


Jul 10, 2003, 7:46 AM
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allenbrook in atlanta, ga
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does anyone know if the few routes at allenbrook off the chattahochee river are bolted or is it all top rope? thanks for the reply!


burz


Jul 10, 2003, 8:19 AM
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Re: allenbrook in atlanta, ga [In reply to]
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I checked the place out last year, and did not see any bolts. The 5.8 looked like you could lead it with trad gear. The other climbs are too tough for me to consider leading so I did not even look for placements. They are easily toproped with a long piece of webbing.


ridethespiral


Jul 10, 2003, 10:17 AM
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I was there a few days ago, I think i saw one bolt on one of the overhung routes but i didn't look too hard, there are several routes that do look protectable with trad, and the top ropes are easily set up. Just make sure you go when it's dry or else there's mud everywhere at the bottom.

(if you ever need someone to climb with in the atl area PM me)


willstrickland


Jul 23, 2003, 8:59 AM
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At one time a couple of the routes had bolts...the last time I was there (many years ago) a few bolts remained, but at least one bolt or hanger was gone off each bolted climb..so sorry, no sport leading. TR's are easy to set up there, although it's wise not to fall low on TR because of the huge overhang (a pendulum will put you on the ground). The routes were not maintained because like many areas in the southeast the bubba redneck rappeller crews will steal anything they can get their hands on, especially bolt hangers.

Rumors Roof takes good trad gear, Afterburner protects ok if you're willing to trust one of the big block/flakes halfway out the roof...I personally wouldn't place anything behind one of them. The 5.8 crack is like 15-20ft high with the "crux" about three moves up, just solo it.

In my mind, the only thing this place is good for is pumping laps on TR. You can get a decent workout due to the steepness of the routes.


ljthawk


Jul 23, 2003, 9:25 AM
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No bolted routes, not worth climbing at unless you are stuck in town for the weekend or want an afternoon weekday pump; even then I would go to Boat Rock instead.

One thing about Allenbrook is every time I think I saw someone do something that was the most deserved of Darwin intervention, someone else steps in and raises the bar. Every time I go there I pick up one more example of what not to do.

Also, I wouldn't consider leading, the rock is too chossy. Friends have aidded, but that is body weight placements, not lead falls. Everything can be easily top rope set up anyway. There were some top rope bolts earlier this year, but a local took them out and patched the holes. They were unsafe, illegal, and unneeded.

L.J.


akornylak


Jul 23, 2003, 9:43 AM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2003
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ya I aided a couple routes there for practice. The rock isnt all that great, but it steep and good practice


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