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a510poser
Jun 25, 2003, 10:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 45
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Hey,
I just wanted to say hi and find out whats up! I've been climbing voraciously in the Bay Area for over ten years now and if I havn't met you I've probably seen you somewhere. So who are you? Where do you like to climb? Is there a South Bay climbing club? Any one done any good routes lately?
I just did the toll house traverse the other day and was very impressed. The guide book touts it as the best 5.5 in the country and I was very skeptical of this outrageous claim when I started the route. In fact, since I've visited quite a few of America's destination crags, I was hell bent to debunk the authors claim.
Wow! What a great route. Four stellar pitches of easy crack on high quality and well featured granite that just swallows your gear and begs for more if you need it. Starting high on a steep hill side the gratifying feeling of exposure greets you as soon as you clear the trees and four pitches later culminates in a grand view of the entire central valley. Very very good sunset spot.
Walking, crack climbing, face climbing, mantels, stemming, a delicate tip toe traverse and even a small roof will challenge your repitoir of climbing moves and leave even the hot shots smiling from ear to ear. Do this route! It's really good!
There is one annoying thing though, which is quite a few unnessecary bolts on or near the route. Actually the whole rock seems to be on some sort of grid pattern. Which is good for lots of safe climbing, but bad for the beauty and adventure thing.
Well thats all I had to say. I hope I get to meet all of you one day!
SteviDx
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alvchen
Jun 26, 2003, 5:43 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2002
Posts: 616
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I'm gonna be a junior at Santa Clara U., and I like to climb at Pinnacles whenever I get the chance, but I usually end up at Castle Rock or at Planet Granite Santa Clara.
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beta49
Jun 28, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2002
Posts: 18
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Hello! I'm not yet a bay area climber, but I'm seriously thinking of moving to the area. I'm from salt lake (NOT mormon!) and need information. The only thing I've really heard of is bouldering in Castle Rock. I'm very excited to play there, but what about sport climbing? And what gym should I go to? How's the scene in general?
Thanks a lot,
amanda
mocangelo@hotmail.com
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alvchen
Jun 28, 2003, 4:19 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2002
Posts: 616
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There are lots of smaller areas around for sport climbing, but the most developed is probably Pinnacles, somewhat near Hollister.
As to what gym to join, it all depends on where you live. There are tons of gyms around the bay area.
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salami
Jun 28, 2003, 5:32 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 128
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careful what gym you choose. A lot of the gyms I have climbed at in the bay area way over rate their climbs. It will be 5.7 or 5.8 for the whole climb except for one move. These one move wonders get old quite quickly. We need gyms that have sustained routes not the wishy washy ones that make gym rats think they are cool and can climb harder than they really can. its all about making the customer feel happy so they keep coming back again.
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painful_crash
Jun 28, 2003, 7:52 AM
Post #7 of 28
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Registered: May 25, 2003
Posts: 31
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I'm putting together a tiny site for Bay Area climbers ..
Well , the process is very slow , couz i'm developing
the site when i'm bored or need to clear my mind.
I'll update it soon ..
http://free.hostdepartment.com/b/bayareaclimbing/
let me know what you think ,
-crash :idea:
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brutusofwyde
Jun 29, 2003, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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Been living and climbing in the Bay Area for the past 17 years.
We're incredibly lucky to be in an area with such a wealth of climbing.
For those of you thinking of moving here or who are new to the area, here's some potential day trippin' places, depending on where in the Bay Area you live:
Mt. Diablo, Mickey's Beach and The Egg, Mt. St. Helena, Goat Rock, Castle Rock State Park, Pinnacles, Cosumnes, Emeralds, Grotto, Jailhouse, Table Mountain, Two Mile Bar, Lover's Leap, Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, Beaver Street Wall...
Further afield, but still within a half-day's drive (each way) is Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, Southern Yosemite, Calaveras Dome, Sequoia and King's Canyon, Needles, Tollhouse, Sierra East Side, Owens, Castle Crags State Park.
Joshua Tree, New Jack City, the San Bernardinos and Red Rocks are within range for the long weekender or week-long tripper, Redrocks often just a short cheap plane flight and car rental away, closer in time than a drive to Yosemite Valley.
My current favorite summertime haunts are the east side of the High Sierra and the Sonora Pass Area.
Winters are spent at local crags, in the gym, backcountry skiing, and the occasional ice climbing trip to Tokopah, Tahoe, SLC, Colorado or Canada.
When I'm in town, I usually frequent Class 5 in San Rafael, with occasional trips to Berkeley Ironworks, Mission Cliffs, or Planet Granite Belmont (cool offwidths and chimneys). I'm the old fat balding guy with the hand jammies and elbow pads, often seen climbing with Nurse Ratchet.
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keema
Jun 29, 2003, 10:54 PM
Post #9 of 28
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 81
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In reply to: My current favorite summertime haunts are the east side of the High Sierra and the Sonora Pass Area.
When and where will you be climbing in the Sonora Pass area?
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climbtheruins
Jun 29, 2003, 11:52 PM
Post #10 of 28
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Registered: Dec 2, 2002
Posts: 30
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I am moving to the bay in mid-August to attend SFSU. I have been climbing in the gym since January and have started frequent outdoor excursions this summer. I hope to hook up with some of you in the fall to check out the local crags. Drop me a line if any one needs a partner. :D
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valygrl
Jun 30, 2003, 6:04 AM
Post #11 of 28
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
Posts: 247
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Hmmm, yeah I think we may have met :wink:
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a510poser
Jun 30, 2003, 6:28 PM
Post #12 of 28
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 45
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Hey Everybody!
Wow! Great to hear from all of you. Brutusofwyde is your name Bruce? Would that be Bruce from the old City Rock era who was particularily fond of wyde cracks? If so thanks for the care package you gave me at Red Rocks a couple of years ago? I owe ya!
Clint baby! I haven't heard from you in eons. How are ya? Are you still using the Pinns this late into the inferno season? Yeesh you're tougher than I.
I just got back from the Meadows where the temps were as cool as the hot shot climbers who loiter at the store parking lot in the afternoons. I saw about twenty people I know and love, and had a total blast. My van turned 200,000 just as we pulled into the Fairview Dome parking area. We fired the route in six pitches with a 70m rope. Which works out absoloutely perfect for belaying on comfratable ledges, if you stretch the rope for the first three pitches. The first pitch is very wet and felt like about 5.10b, though I was a little tired from doing Cathedral Peak in three pitches the day before. I talked to TM Herbert at the base of Stately Pleasure Dome and mentioned how insecure I found the first pitch of Fairview Dome was and was treated to a wonderful story about the FFA and a funnier story about how much harder it was for him when he did it a couple of years ago. I guess we've been steadily polishing the cursed pitch for quite a while now. I wonder if sticky rubber polishes granite faster than standard rubber? That would be a fiasco! Anyways, Love to all and hope to see you all soon!
SteviDx
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tt
Jul 1, 2003, 12:44 AM
Post #13 of 28
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Registered: Apr 6, 2003
Posts: 58
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In reply to: Hello! I'm not yet a bay area climber, but I'm seriously thinking of moving to the area. I'm from salt lake (NOT mormon!) and need information. The only thing I've really heard of is bouldering in Castle Rock. I'm very excited to play there, but what about sport climbing? And what gym should I go to? How's the scene in general? Thanks a lot, amanda mocangelo@hotmail.com
Amanda, I think there are a lot of good climbing gyms in the area. I am a member of the Touchstone climbing gyms and have fun (Iron Works in Berkeley, and have climbed at Mission Cliffs in SF, and Concord, Sacramento.)
I have also gone to Planet Granite in Belmont and have enjoyed climbing there too. I believe the rates are cheaper for Planet Granite.
There's sport climbing in Castle rock and Pinnacles as others have mentioned. Sonora Pass is reasonably close too. Hopefully someday Auburn will be open to all.
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tt
Jul 1, 2003, 12:56 AM
Post #14 of 28
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Registered: Apr 6, 2003
Posts: 58
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In reply to: careful what gym you choose. A lot of the gyms I have climbed at in the bay area way over rate their climbs. It will be 5.7 or 5.8 for the whole climb except for one move. These one move wonders get old quite quickly. We need gyms that have sustained routes not the wishy washy ones that make gym rats think they are cool and can climb harder than they really can. its all about making the customer feel happy so they keep coming back again.
Salami, what's it matter what the ratings are? Go ahead and onsight the all the lead routes at Iron Works or Mission Cliffs. I'm sure there's something challenging for even you. Hans Florine is a regular at Iron Works and he seems to have fun on the wishy washy routes when he's not climbing at Yosemite.
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tjanke
Jul 1, 2003, 5:27 PM
Post #15 of 28
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Registered: May 4, 2003
Posts: 26
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Hey, Steve,
There are two other forums specifically for hooking up with Bay Area partners, the "bayarearock" and "southbay_climbers" groups on Yahoo. I've had good success with them; for example, southbay_climbers has two trips organized for this July 4th weekend, one to Tuolumne for the 3rd (and perhaps longer), and another for Tollhouse/Courtwright Reservoir for the 4th - 6th. They're a nice complement to this forum. Check it out.
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mungeclimber
Jul 7, 2003, 7:42 PM
Post #16 of 28
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
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Sorry Steve, just me Rob B., not Clint. We exchanged a couple messages before and have mutual friends in common.
Cheers Brah,
Rob
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mungeclimber
Jul 7, 2003, 7:44 PM
Post #17 of 28
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
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More importantly Keema, is when you will be climbing SP next?
C-ya all there this weekend.
Laters,
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salami
Jul 10, 2003, 11:43 PM
Post #18 of 28
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 128
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Quoted from TT
Salami, what's it matter what the ratings are? Go ahead and onsight the all the lead routes at Iron Works or Mission Cliffs. I'm sure there's something challenging for even you. Hans Florine is a regular at Iron Works and he seems to have fun on the wishy washy routes when he's not climbing at Yosemite.
blah blah blah
i am just saying that Gyms have to cater to the general public with their one move wonder routes so they can make people happy and keep them spending money.
Besides the last few times i have been to Iron Works or Mission Cliffs there were so many "uber gym rats" sitting at the base of the routes B.S.ing instead of climbing that you would have thought it was a big extreme knitting convention. I don't mind if you want to talk to your buddy, just don't be tied in to the F.ing rope too. and so on and so fourth for the lead routes and boulder problems
but you did spark an interest, I will go to these gyms, try their lead routes and report back to you.... oh wise one (tt)
and another thing, last time I checked HANS worked for touchstone..... and berkeley (maybe now Concord) was his closest gym to train in. He has a vested interest in touchstone and he gets in for free.
I am sure that if you ask most people, they climb at that specific gym, a high percentage would say it was because of the convenience and close proximity to their home and not the quality of the routes.
Also I am sure Hans likes the fact that you are throwing his name about like you have afternoon tea with him.
and for my closing statement, I believe the poster was asking what were the good gyms in the area. I was merely pointing out that they should climb at a few to see which one fits their style.
TT maybe we should get together and climb sometime, i am sure that I could learn so much from an Iron Works local, that once belayed next to HANS!!!!!! :lol:
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iamthewallress
Jul 11, 2003, 12:16 AM
Post #19 of 28
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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In reply to: careful what gym you choose. A lot of the gyms I have climbed at in the bay area way over rate their climbs. It will be 5.7 or 5.8 for the whole climb except for one move. These one move wonders get old quite quickly. We need gyms that have sustained routes not the wishy washy ones that make gym rats think they are cool and can climb harder than they really can. its all about making the customer feel happy so they keep coming back again.
I find your signature really ironic.
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salami
Jul 11, 2003, 5:44 AM
Post #20 of 28
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 128
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In reply to: I find your signature really ironic.
is this one better? :lol:
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keema
Jul 20, 2003, 11:32 PM
Post #21 of 28
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 81
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In reply to: More importantly Keema, is when you will be climbing SP next? C-ya all there this weekend. Laters,
I am a teacher so I have all summer free and can usually get away on fairly short noctice. I usually hike/scramble the peaks in the SP area. It's about a 2 hour drive for me. All my vertical has been in a gym but I would like to learn more. Willing to be a belay slave for a trip in order to learn. BTW, just read your post. The weekend you were up SP way, I was summiting Mount Rainier. Awesome trip.
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karmaklimber
Jul 21, 2003, 1:13 AM
Post #22 of 28
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 363
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I'm not sure if many of you are aware of it or not, but a new Touchstone gym opened this past March, dedicated to bouldering, which is something different than the other gyms. For the location and pricing, its a really nice gym. On most days, you can pop in and you'll have the gym pretty much to yourself, free from trolls or lame sprayers, so you can work on whatever goal you set yourself up for. The routes are clean and easy to read, instructors are really laid back and down to earth; they offer Yoga and Pilates classes if you're interested in taking them.
Check it out if you're in San Jose or close to.
Climb Safely
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watersprite
Jul 21, 2003, 7:19 PM
Post #23 of 28
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
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Touchstone is great - very good instructors, and they will give you an intro session for free. Ask for Linnea...
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zachres
Jul 31, 2003, 1:05 PM
Post #24 of 28
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 62
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Hey,
I'm moving to San Fran, at the end of August, and I'm looking for climbing partners... looking to go to Yosemite, Lover's leap, Tahoe Backcountry (winter), anything I can get my hands on!! I'm moving out West specifically for the climbing.
I'm currently a solid 5.8 leader in the Gunks... I've lead a few 5.9s, and I can comfortably follow 5.10s and some 5.11s. The Gunks are a unique climbing area, so the ratings may not translate directly... I'm sure it will take me a little while to get used to cracks, but if you are familiar with the Gunks, it should give you an idea of my climbing level.
Unfortunately, I have to work (damn), so I'm going to be a weekend warrior for a while...
Send me an email, if you would be interested in climbing with me. I will be moving in to San Fran, on the 30th of August, and I'll be around for gym climbing, for a few weeks after that. I should be ready to head to valley or other outdoor locations, by the 2nd or 3rd weekend of September.
Zach
zachres@hotmail.com
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bdawg
Jul 31, 2003, 2:35 PM
Post #25 of 28
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 207
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I too am seriously thinking about moving to the (east) Bay Area, and I was wondering what the best Climbing gym in the area is. I will be living in Livermore and working in Walnut Creek, so the closest possible either would be best. Also, are there any climbing areas that are close enough that I could just go to after work? or would they all have a pretty good drive? Thanks
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