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dead_milkman
Jul 10, 2003, 3:13 PM
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Anyone know what the N to S ridge traverse on Victoria looks liek right now? Also, I was up on Pinnacle Mountain last weekend looking at the Supercouloir on Deltaform... it looked like it still had a good deal of snow on it, but I am wondering if this past week of warm weather might have got some of it to move... anyone had a good look from Eiffel Lake in the past couple of days? Also, anything you can think of that might be similar in scope and character to the Supercouloir that would be worth a look this weekend?
For those of you interested, Asteroid Alley is in shape, though the rock is plastered with snow. The Lemair (sp?) route on Lefroy was looking good... and all the Routes on Fay appear that they should be climbable, though there was a great deal of serac activity in the heat of Sunday on both Lefroy and on the glacier below Fay. Pinnacle is drying and makes for a fun, short day (watch rock fall in the gully above the first step as snow melts... A head sized rock slammed into the massive rap anchor at the top of the pitch as I safely watched from by sheltered rock horn belay).
Any information would be helpful...
Brad.
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pirate
Jul 10, 2003, 6:27 PM
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Hey hows it going?
Look I dont have any info right now and youll probably be back by the time were heding out on our next trip. I was wondering if you had any more info you could share as far as in the columbian range?
In a little while (where still settling on time off) were heading up to do the north face of Athabasca and then we might do the Andromada strain or slipstream before we head towards the coast to work on some aid lines.
Just wondering if you knew what any of those routes are like right now.
of course we have been known to change our minds at the last minute so we may hit another route........maybe well go for Robsons north face if the weather looks like it will be stable for our days off and skip some of the other stuff. So hey if you have any info on that; super.
Were always flexable and prepared to go wherever we end up. But any info you or anyone else has would be greatly apreciated of course we always get updates from parks as well.
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dead_milkman
Jul 10, 2003, 7:28 PM
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Athabasca N Face is in - friends of mine climbed it last weekend. There might be a good deal of serac activity above Slipstream, what with the heat and all... not sure if this is the best time of year to be on it. I'm not sure if the Andromeda strain is in or not, but it faces the same way as Asteroid Alley and gets little sun, so it might be. Problem with this route is the horrendous rockfall - the quailty of rock on Andromeda is surprisingly poor at times. There is likely still a ton of snow on the N face of Robson, most people wait until at least the middle of August to climb it. Not sure if that helps or not... keep me in the loop if you end up climbing on the Icefields, as good beta's always a fine thing!
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bumpkin
Jul 11, 2003, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: Problem with this route is the horrendous rockfall - the quailty of rock on Andromeda is surprisingly poor at times.
Umm.. what exactly is surprising about the poor quality of the Rock on Andromeda? Or anywhere in the Rockies for that matter?
Hey, sort of off-subject: a bunch of us are thinking of heading into the Clemenceau at the end of August. We're poor (or tight-fisted whatever) so we were thinking fly in / walk out. Opinions?
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hammer_
Jul 11, 2003, 3:57 PM
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I was on Skyladder on Canada day. There was lots of snow with recent point releases shattered over both mountains. Give it a week and IMHO it'll be all good to go.
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beyond_gravity
Jul 11, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Anyone know how high up the snowline is on temple?? Would crampons be needed for the tourist route?
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dead_milkman
Jul 11, 2003, 4:27 PM
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In reply to: Anyone know how high up the snowline is on temple?? Would crampons be needed for the tourist route?
Probably nothing beyond instep crampons... There was, at least last Sunday, snow above Sentinel Pass.
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dead_milkman
Jul 11, 2003, 4:34 PM
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In reply to: I was on Skyladder on Canada day. There was lots of snow with recent point releases shattered over both mountains. Give it a week and IMHO it'll be all good to go.
Skyladder holds snow more so than the N face, N Bowl routes, as well as the N face of Athabasca. I think that the NW shoulder direct is still threatened by a huge cornice - do you remember what this looked like? As of last night, our plans have changed (as we gained a party member who is less experienced with short-roping) from a big day out on Victoria to heading up to the icefields to bag a couple of the N face routes and/or a route on the NE face of Andromeda. Also, time permitting - and I hope it will be - I want to take a jaunt up the parkway to look at some routes further up. I will keep you all posted as to what shapes up. Has anyone linked either Asteroid Alley or the Shooting Galleries with the N face, N Bowl of Andromeda. I've looked at this before and think it will go, but I am curious if anyone has made the traverse into the bowl off the ridge.
There are some somewhat current pictures of the ridge of Victoria and Snowpatch spire at www.mountainguide.com if anyone's interested. Victoria is still holding a good deal of snow on the ridge.
DM.
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dead_milkman
Jul 11, 2003, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Problem with this route is the horrendous rockfall - the quailty of rock on Andromeda is surprisingly poor at times. Umm.. what exactly is surprising about the poor quality of the Rock on Andromeda? Or anywhere in the Rockies for that matter?
Just that the rock is really, really shitty on Andromeda. Had a bit of a fun time on Skyladder when a boulder cut loose and split our rope team... two axe dives onto grannular ice are not fun!
In reply to: Hey, sort of off-subject: a bunch of us are thinking of heading into the Clemenceau at the end of August. We're poor (or tight-fisted whatever) so we were thinking fly in / walk out. Opinions?
I don't have any, but you could post at www.live-the-vision.com and see what come up...
DM
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hammer_
Jul 11, 2003, 4:49 PM
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Skyladder holds snow more so than the N face, N Bowl routes, as well as the N face of Athabasca. I think that the NW shoulder direct is still threatened by a huge cornice - do you remember what this looked like?
I can't recall but the line looks sweet! Can I come pleeeeeeeeeease! :D
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dead_milkman
Jul 11, 2003, 6:44 PM
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In reply to: Skyladder holds snow more so than the N face, N Bowl routes, as well as the N face of Athabasca. I think that the NW shoulder direct is still threatened by a huge cornice - do you remember what this looked like? I can't recall but the line looks sweet! Can I come pleeeeeeeeeease! :D
It does, doesn't it? Definately the plum in the N bowl... As for joining... if you like we'll be at the campground around 9 - 9:30 pm tonight - driving a silver Passat and sleeping in a blue and yellow MEC snowfield. Or, alternately, give me an e-mail at bwcooke@ucalgary.ca and I'll give you my cell number. Two teams of two would likely be all right for anything but the routes on the NE face...
Brad.
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bumpkin
Jul 11, 2003, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Problem with this route is the horrendous rockfall - the quailty of rock on Andromeda is surprisingly poor at times. Umm.. what exactly is surprising about the poor quality of the Rock on Andromeda? Or anywhere in the Rockies for that matter? Just that the rock is really, really s___ on Andromeda. Had a bit of a fun time on Skyladder when a boulder cut loose and split our rope team... two axe dives onto grannular ice are not fun! DM
I know it... got smacked by a pizza box shaped rock on Skyladder two summers ago. And some of those raps down the "casual" AA col descent were quite sketchy. Cool rock though. I am not carbonate expert, but some of those textures reminded me of thrombolites.
Can't wait 'till August! In the meantime I have to amuse myself with granite crags. Sigh.
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dead_milkman
Jul 11, 2003, 7:49 PM
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In reply to: I know it... got smacked by a pizza box shaped rock on Skyladder two summers ago. And some of those raps down the "casual" AA col descent were quite sketchy. Cool rock though. I am not carbonate expert, but some of those textures reminded me of thrombolites.
The descent seems to get a few people in trouble every year... not surprising, really. There's some pretty good rap stations (and some terrible ones as well), but it's not simple to find them if you don't already know where they are... There were some cool fossils up there too, IIRC.
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pirate
Jul 12, 2003, 7:46 AM
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Thanks for the beta
yeah I know were lookin a shade early at Robson but whatever we do well play it by ear like we always do.
looks like our days of climbing will be the 31st to the 5th or so of August my partners been by Robson quite a few times over the past 2 weeks and he says shes been socked in lots but our tentative plan right now is probably something in the ice fields for a couple days and then work on some aid lines in BC like I mentioned before.
Hell were quite familiar with the crappy rock on Andromeda....But if you want real sh!t rock come do some climbing here in the southern canadian rockies sheesh if we find rock like andromeda on a route out here were thinkin its good to go!
Thats why were itchin to get going again (to some good stuff)
We just got back from workin some aid lines today around Waterton nothing to huge but just getting some sits dialed. Bloody popin rurps and unzippin the one pitch twice! Yup all in all a good day............But I need an alpine fix!!!!
Plus we wouldnt mind getting back on Athabasca last time we got kicked off at around 3300m from some major storm, we had tried to beat it but we got behind this team and they were possing major dangers to themselves and us, they tied us up for about 1.5 hrs until we could safely pass them. We ended up getting hit by the storm fast and we prepared to get pinned down for a while; all of the sudden it let up and we high tailed it off. We were back at the interpretive center chowing down and spotting that Team (they were sooo slow) coming across the glacier. When we finished eating and drove away they were just stepping on to the talus slope.
Anyway I got to get out of this hell hole people say life and do some more living
Ill let you know what happens Im sure it will be epical....why fight the inevitable hell why would you want to, right?
cheers
Shawn :wink:
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rockprodigy
Jul 17, 2003, 3:49 PM
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Hey, is it as hot up there as it is down here in the states? We just had a a new record for the highest overnight low...80 degrees last night, eh?
I'm headed up that way next week...hoping to get on Robson, Alberta, Assiniboine, and possibly Andromeda or Kitchener...if conditions are suitable.
Keep us posted, eh?
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dead_milkman
Jul 17, 2003, 5:08 PM
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In reply to: Hey, is it as hot up there as it is down here in the states? We just had a a new record for the highest overnight low...80 degrees last night, eh? I'm headed up that way next week...hoping to get on Robson, Alberta, Assiniboine, and possibly Andromeda or Kitchener...if conditions are suitable. Keep us posted, eh?
I climbed the N Face of Athabasca on Saturday, knee problems forced me to not climb on Sunday. The approach was nasty postholing through isothermal snow, the shrund wasn't bad at all, and most of the route was ice. The final rock pitch provided some entertainment... It is still probably looking a lot like winter at Assiniboine and Robson, which can be a good thing for the former, not so good for the latter. People climbed Assiniboine about ten days ago and reported wearing crampons for the whole route... bring ice axes if you're heading up soon, I suppose. Were you thinking the Ramp or Grand Central on Kitchener? If so, these routes are probably better done in the fall... The Routes on the NE face of Andromeda will be shitting rocks in this heat, but the routes in the N Bowl are shaping up nicely, and should be mostly ice by this weekend, I imagine. Conditions are shaping up in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, and around Victoria as well, but there is still a good volume of snow on most things. One or two more weeks should fix that... Have fun.
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pirate
Jul 17, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Glad to hear more beta as well as hear poeple out there climbing while Im stuck working.
Were still heading up there in about a week to do Athabasca And maybe another route in the area hows slip stream?
I think were gonna pass on doing some aid work after (weve been getting out quite a bit for that anyway) and were going to save a bit more cash as once Im done guiding this season Im taking like a year off to climb. we got some big plans, hopefully they go well.
cheers
Shawn
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dead_milkman
Jul 17, 2003, 7:16 PM
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In reply to: Were still heading up there in about a week to do Athabasca And maybe another route in the area hows slip stream?
Very white, discontinuous, and falling down.
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pirate
Jul 17, 2003, 7:51 PM
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sounds perfect :wink:
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rockprodigy
Jul 17, 2003, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: hows slip stream?
I think that's a winter climb, eh?
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pirate
Jul 17, 2003, 10:38 PM
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Oops Im just having a brain fart Ive been up all night..I was writing slipstream but Im thinking about the strain.
cheers
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dead_milkman
Jul 18, 2003, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: Oops Im just having a brain fart Ive been up all night..I was writing slipstream but Im thinking about the strain. cheers
Would you prefer a yes with an if... or a no with a but?
My thoughts:
Yes, if you get a couple of cold, clear nights and are prepared to buckle down and climb at night.
No, but if you get a couple of unseasonably cold nights then maybe. See above...
All in all I would think that you would want to leave this one well alone until things cool down... but before the first major snowfall. Think October... I'd hate to be caught anywhere on that bastard when the sun hits the face...
DM
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pirate
Jul 18, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Yes sun is an enemy on that one for sure in the summer and if we did decide it was good to go then we would probably be on it starting at about 0100hrs depending how quick things were setting back up.
Did you know that the strain actually sees more successful climbs in August then any other month? But yeah its gotto go just right and the weather has been killing some of these routes right now.
Oh well if it looks like a trip to the columbian area is going to be spoiled by conditions then hell well just go do our aid lines after all. Were not fussed we just want to get out on our days off. Morgan was by Robson again a couple days ago and things are starting to shape up there so we might get a chance later in Aug to hit that otherwise it wont be until Sept when I start my year off (if all goes well).
If you get any further beta on Athabasca or Andromeda keep me posted
We just settled our dates as july 25-28 so we only have 4 days instead of 6 Robson is out for sure for this trip and well probably just do Alpine or Aid but not both on this trip.
Well I better go and get some work done now
Cheers
Shawn :wink:
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rockprodigy
Aug 4, 2003, 11:04 PM
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I just got back...unfortunately I had to cut my trip short when I effed up my achile's tendon after climbing 3 peaks in 5 days...I just don't heal up as fast as I used to.
It's super dry there right now. We had awesome weather...didn't see any measurable rain in the 8 days we were there.
We managed to do the N Ridge of Assiniboine (awesome views), the NW Ridge of Sir Donald (awesome rock), and the Greenwood-Locke on the N Face of Temple.
Assiniboine was in really good shape...still lots of snow on it, so axe and crampons are advised, though if it stays warmer, you may not need them.
Sir Donald had bits of snow here and there, but it's a total tennis-shoe climb.
Temple was a little sketchy in spots. The rock climbing on the upper headwall was in great shape because it is dry...we were able to do it all free, however, the traverse right from the Dolphin over to the base of the starting 5.8 chimney did not have enough snow on it and was very dangerous. Unprotected climbing on the notorious yellow limestone...I would not do that again. It may be possible to traverse lower on better rock (quartzite), otherwise I wouldn't do it again this year unless you got some snow to cover that up (and a lot of snow at that), in which case, the upper face would be pretty wet and miserable. Besides that it was a very enjoyable alpine route drawing on many skills.
I wish I could have stayed longer...would have been a good time to try Robson...oh well, maybe next year.
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bumpkin
Aug 12, 2003, 1:58 AM
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Rockprod: cool, sounds like an awesome trip.
Deadmilkman and other Alberta types: any word on Robson?
Seven days and counting.........
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